yo1dog Posted December 2, 2018 Author Share Posted December 2, 2018 23 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: The FTF from the rebound hammer comes after a bit when the hammer's coil spring takes a set. Keep an eye out for shallow FP hits on the primer. OLG I'll keep an eye out for that. If it becomes an issue I'll send it over to Goatneck to remove the rebounding hammer as originally planned. 16 hours ago, Uriah, SASS # 53822 said: You may not want to hear this, I shoot a historically incorrect Marlin Cowboy. It has: Shotgun butt. Smith barrel sight for Long Range. Red dot sight for hunting. 3 parts takedown for breach cleaning (I shoot BP only). Relatively light for hunting (shotgun butt). I wanted to get a Browning 1886. I am glad I got a Marlin. Uriah Why would I not want to hear that? Sounds like an interesting setup you got there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 It's not the hammer that's the cause. It's the hammer spring strut that's the issue and it's an easy fix, if you know how to take the rifle apart. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?12077-Winchester-Miroku-1886-Rebounding-Hammer-Fix-Tutorial OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo1dog Posted December 2, 2018 Author Share Posted December 2, 2018 Right. That's what I meant. I said "remove" but I should have said "disable". Refering back to my notes/early posts: On 10/8/2018 at 5:15 PM, yo1dog said: The rebounding hammer requires a heavy hammer spring. The heavy hammer spring creates a heavy trigger. The inertia firing pin is too short and a heavy hammer spring attempts to compensate by providing extra force. However, even with the heavy hammer spring, the too-short inertia firing pin can still cause light primer hits and a failure to fire. The tang safety can be engaged by accident and is unnecessary. It also prevents a tang sight. To fix: The rebound spur on the hammer spring strut should be removed to disable the rebounding. The hammer spring should be replaced with a lighter one (or cut down). The inertia firing pin should be replaced. (With a longer inertia firing pin? A non-inertia firing pin?) The tang safety can be welded in the off position. The receiver can be drilled to accept a tang sight. On 10/8/2018 at 5:43 PM, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: I'm still run' the OEM, FP with no issues. That rebound spur is 99% of the FTF issues. I was going to send it in to fix all the above mentioned issues. But, you are right that it looks easy to remove the rebound spur and cut down the hammer spring. Given that this is what causes the majority of the problems, I will try this myself before sending it in. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly Drifter Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 why even fret over it until and if it becomes an issue? mine will not be shot enough for these things to matter I'm betting. I will shoot it at 5 or 6 sessions a year max. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo1dog Posted December 2, 2018 Author Share Posted December 2, 2018 I'm not. As I said I'm not going to worry about it unless it becomes an issue. However, I am curious to see what it feels like with a lighter hammer spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 2 minutes ago, yo1dog said: I'm not. As I said I'm not going to worry about it unless it becomes an issue. However, I am curious to see what it feels like with a lighter hammer spring. Leave the hammer spring in, that's OEM. If anything-You will need to 'shim' that coil hammer spring with a #10 AN washer, after a spell. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo1dog Posted December 2, 2018 Author Share Posted December 2, 2018 Why would I want to shim the hammer spring? Everything I have read has said you can lighten the spring once you disable the rebounding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 1 hour ago, yo1dog said: Why would I want to shim the hammer spring? Everything I have read has said you can lighten the spring once you disable the rebounding. Shim to increase spring tension for a harder smack to the FP. The OEM hammer spring 'sets' over time, and gives you light hits-BTDT. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo1dog Posted December 2, 2018 Author Share Posted December 2, 2018 Just to be sure, "hammer spring"/"mainspring" is the same thing, right? I am confused . I have gotten most of my information about the Miroku Winchester issues from this thread that you posted earlier: You advised: "Remove the rebound spur on the hammer spring strut and you can use a lighter hammer spring." Nate contests with: "The heavy rebounding type hammer spring is used to compensate for the too short inertia firing pin.The problem with cutting the strut does nothing to cure the light primer hits caused by the inertia firing pin. If you do that and reduce the hammer spring alone without doing anything with the inertia FP it only exaggerates the problem. Unlike the original FP which is full length, the inertia setup is short. So short that even with the hammer setting fully on the FP it won't reach the primer. It has to be hit hard enough to be slammed forward into the primer." You respond with: "After I did the hammer spring strut mod to remove the re-bound in the hammer and installed the lighter spring. I have never had any FTF(test'd with CCI mag rifle primers)and still have the OEM, FP in place." Also: "After I installed the M1-A hammer spring and did the hammer strut mod. to eliminate the hammer re-bound. Ignition has been 100%." This was back in 2015. Have you since changed your recommendation about using a lighter hammer spring or am I missing something? I'm not trying to call you out or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Picture #3 in my above link is the spring I'm talk'n about. It's labeled as a 'mainspring' on the 'hammer strut' in the picture. Replaced that with the OEM spring and have had no more 'lite' hammer hits. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo1dog Posted December 2, 2018 Author Share Posted December 2, 2018 I am referring to the same spring. You replaced the original (OEM) spring with... the OEM spring? I am very confused lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 6 minutes ago, yo1dog said: I am referring to the same spring. You replaced the original (OEM) spring with... the OEM spring? I am very confused lol. Switched the OEM '86 spring with a modified hammer spring from a M1-A rifle as a experiment. Worked fine for a spell-After I used the AN washer to increase 'mainspring' tension. Decided to go back to the OEM mainspring a couple of yrs ago. That's how the rifle is today....... OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo1dog Posted December 2, 2018 Author Share Posted December 2, 2018 Ahhh gotcha. Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like if you want to lighten the hammer spring you also have to replace the firing pin. As said before, the short inirtia firing pin that the rifle comes with requires a heavy hammer spring. Good to know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Just do the mod to stop the rebound nonsense in the link I posted, and run it. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo1dog Posted December 2, 2018 Author Share Posted December 2, 2018 No reason to do anything yet until I get a FTF (or I get bored one afternoon). Once that happens I will disable the rebounding hammer. If I still have issues (or just 'cause I want to), I'll replace the firing pin with a full length one and lighten the hammer spring. I also like the idea of a tang sight which would require removing the tang safety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.