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Looking for a smith to install removable bushings in 3rd generation cylinders.


Doc Coles SASS 1188

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I have a 3rd gen sheriffs model that has the non-removable bushings.  One of them has too much spacing and the front of the cylinder drags on the back of the barrel.  

 

One option is to simply replace the bushing with a new one, or remove the bushing and shim it.  Another option is to go the whole hog and convert the cylinder to take a removable bushing, which is more work but easier to deal with in the long run.  I would have to do two cylinders as this gun has both 44spl and 44-40 cylinders.

 

Has anyone tackled this job?  Or does anyone have a recommendation on who can do the bushing conversion?

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8 minutes ago, Turquoise Bill, SASS #39118 said:

Bob James is the man, he can be contacted at Legendary Guns in Phoenix, AZ.

 

TB

 

That is interesting.  I spent some time there the last time I was in Phoenix.  I will give them a call.

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I had a similar problem with one of my Sheriff's models.    The .44 Special cylinder worked just fine, but the .44-40 cylinder was overall length just a tad too long.  I took it to a local smith who put the cylinder on a lathe and he ground off maybe a thousandth of an inch or two off the bushing and then everything worked fine.

 

But sounds like your problem is the opposite of mine...  Not sure of the solution.

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Yeah, you had the opposite problem.  I could run a shim on the bushing, which is a pain, I could replace the stubby 3rd gen pressed in bushing/spacer with a longer one, I could have the cylinder cut to take the standard long bushing, or I could just replace the cylinder with a later 3rd gen cylinder (though it would be nice to keep the serial numbered ones)

 

I don't see the short press in 3rd gen bushings for sale anywhere, though they would be simple to make on the lathe.  Not sure how to get the original one out.

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8 hours ago, levi littleton said:

Surprised Wild West guns can't do it for you.

 

I have not had good luck having them work on SAAs.  I would rather send it to someone who does the work all the time.

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I tackled this job a couple of days ago. Its easy and cheap to do. A package of 3 bushings can be bought for $17.95 here:

http://parts.bowenclassicarms.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=53

 

Removing the old bushing is simple if you are replacing it. Simply tap the hole to 5/16-24 about 1/8" deep. Dont go too deep or you will be into the cylinder itself. I went a little deep on mine. Its not a big deal but now I have a s mall gap between the bushing and cylinder bore. The bushing sits in a  counterbore so, not a big deal. Leave the tap inserted and tap the bushing out with a  1/4" brass rod from the other end. Instructions are included with the bushings. I faced my new bushing off with a hand file and finished on a flat surface with 400 grit sandpaper. Just make sure you keep the face of the bushing true to the cylinder. A lathe would be much better but, I was able to achieve good results by hand.

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I had my two early 3rd gens SAAs converted to 2nd gen cylinders years ago.  I got recommendations for several smiths... including Bob James, Bowen among others, (some of whom are no longer in business).  I ended up having 'em done by Oglesby & Oglesby... Bill Oglesby himself did them... and I've heard since that I was lucky, as other have said they didn't fare too well with their work.

 

Another that is highly acclaimed is Alan Harton in Houston, (713) 772, 8314.

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4 hours ago, August West, SASS #45079 said:

 

Honestly, this issue is the sign of sloppy workmanship by Colt when they built the gun.  Colt did some pretty bad work at different times in the 70s and 80s.  This bushing has 7 thousandths of play, when the shop manuals call for essentially no play.  Aside from the issue of the cylinder rubbing on the barrel, it also means the headspace is excessive.

 

shims are a work-around at best.  The solution is to do the job right.  I would be very disappointed if I needed to use them after any repair.

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16 hours ago, hearsedriver said:

I tackled this job a couple of days ago. Its easy and cheap to do. A package of 3 bushings can be bought for $17.95 here:

http://parts.bowenclassicarms.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=53

 

Removing the old bushing is simple if you are replacing it. Simply tap the hole to 5/16-24 about 1/8" deep. Dont go too deep or you will be into the cylinder itself. I went a little deep on mine. Its not a big deal but now I have a s mall gap between the bushing and cylinder bore. The bushing sits in a  counterbore so, not a big deal. Leave the tap inserted and tap the bushing out with a  1/4" brass rod from the other end. Instructions are included with the bushings. I faced my new bushing off with a hand file and finished on a flat surface with 400 grit sandpaper. Just make sure you keep the face of the bushing true to the cylinder. A lathe would be much better but, I was able to achieve good results by hand.

 

Thanks for the source for the bushings.  I could not find them.  Sounds like a very simple job to replace them.  I even have access to a lathe to get the play setup properly.  For the price I think I will give this a try.

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3 hours ago, Griff said:

 

 

Another that is highly acclaimed is Alan Harton in Houston, (713) 772, 8314.

 

I agree.  Alan Harton of Single Action Service, located in Houston, Texas.  Call him and ask your question(s).   He will tell you the steps and the pitfalls if any.

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1 hour ago, hearsedriver said:

Good luck Doc! With a lathe, it will be a piece of cake!

 

Thanks, as you say,  fitting bushings is straight forward with a lathe.  I just did one for a 2nd gen and had no discernible play when it was done.  

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