1873 Lube Tricks

[Col Del Rio]

Greetings,

For an 1873 Winchester/clone, are there any recommendations for lubing the carrier/lifting arm? 

 

I heard of folks using "gun grease" instead of "gun oil."   Anyone use that particular method?

 

Col. Del Rio

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Sure, mostly grease in my 73 rifles

 

As said before, Mobil 1 red wheel bearing synthetic grease so it works with either smokeless or black.

 

I avoid lubing the carrier - if anything, a very slight coat on side walls of carrier shaft in frame.

 

Fine coat of grease on bolt and firing pin extension to prevent wear on frame.   Grease on the lifter where contact is made with frame, lever and carrier.  Grease in the link grooves and the ends of the toggles where they fit the frame. 

 

Boeshield T9 in the mag tube and mag follower.  Because that dries to a waxy film that won't attract dust.

 

For low speed contact in areas where it is not easy to re-apply often, grease works so much better than oil.  Oil's great in bore if storing for a while.  Great on the exterior surfaces after cleaning.  There, you are just trying to prevent rust.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

 

[Creeker, SASS #43022]

Oil is for cooking french fries, rust prevention and as it applies to moving parts; in applications where its coating of parts and lubricating properties will be ongoingly replenished (i.e. machines with oil pumps or splash mechanisms).

 

For moving parts without a methodology to replenish lubrication; you use greases that will coat, cling and remain in place.

 

This applies to the slide rails of a semi auto, the cylinder pin of a revolver and the internals of a 73.

 

I honestly don't believe the type or brand of grease is dreadfully important; just that whatever you use maintains it's lubricating presence without running off or becoming dry.

 

I use white lithium grease in my 73.

I use hi temp disc brake grease in other firearm applications.

 

I use oil to prevent rust.

[Deadshot Dan]

I also use white lithium grease.  Thats what the rifle was lubed with when i got it so i just stuck with it.  I did buy a can of mobil 1 syn grease but honestly i haven't had any reason to switch.  Pretty much lube the innards about the same as Garrison Joe does. 

[Noz]

Mobil 1 grease for such as described, Mobil 1 oil for everything else.

[Rance - SASS # 54090]

I use Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease on the internal parts on my '73..

Like GJ and Noz spoke of.. 

but.. Me.. Myself..  I run the carrier dry.. No lube.. No oil..

 

Rance 

Thinkin' that's just me tho 

 

[Shooting Bull]

As others have said, there's really no reason to lube the carrier itself.  But if you feel you absolutely HAVE to apply some sort of lubrication you can hit the carrier with a pencil.  The graphite in the pencil "lead" will slick it up real nice and the wax carrier won't attract dust. 

[TN Mongo, SASS #61450]

I have found that I do have to pay attention to keeping the sides of the carrier clean.  There have been times after shooting 3 matches a month and not cleaning rifles for awhile, that the wife and I have had some cycling issues.

[J-BAR #18287]

If you are shooting blackpowder in calibers that produce blowback, .38/.357 and .45 Colt, a few stages worth of fouling around the carrier can create a lot of drag. Lubing the carrier keeps you in the game.

[Jackrabbit Joe #414]

Been using Brian Enos's  slide- glide standard. Works great. On the lifting arm that goes into carrier & little on rail where the bolt glides thru. Never had any problems and glides great.

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

 

PLUS ONE to Garrison Joe ..... or ..... What Garrison Joe Said  

[Griff]

4 hours ago, J-BAR #18287 said:

If you are shooting blackpowder in calibers that produce blowback, .38/.357 and .45 Colt, a few stages worth of fouling around the carrier can create a lot of drag. Lubing the carrier keeps you in the game.

Actually, in 33 years of shooting a '73 in 45 Colt in BP categories, past & present, using ANY lubricant on the carrier or in the mortise will  hasten the gumming up of the carrier.  I've found this is a truth on hot or cold days when the humidity is up, less the drier it gets.  Irregularities in the metal finish help the fouling stick.  If dry graphite lube will stick to your carrier or in the mortise, fouling will  do so even more rapidly!   Your best friend on those high humidity days is a can automotive brake cleaner.  K Keep the plastic tube on it, shorten it if you want, but keeping that spray directed will aid washing the fouling off.   The amount of clearance your carrier has, along with how smooth your metal is will determine how often you need to spray... I can usually go 10-11 stages before having to spray out fouling.

 

What Creeker said, or as I was taught, "oil lightly where you can refresh. grease liberally where you can't."

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

For grease, try Sta-Lube Engine Assembly Lube. Has Moly and graphite.

Also excellent for M1A and Garand rifles.

https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3333-Anti-Seize-Engine-Assembly/dp/B000CPAWP6.

 

Try Silicon spray on the carrier. I like the CRC brand.

http://www.crcindustries.com/products/heavy-duty-silicone-lubricant-7-5-wt-oz-05074.html

 

OLG

[Sixty-Nine Cent Wizard]

Red "N" Tacky #2, is a blend of lithium and polymers.  Made by Lucas Oil Products Inc.  Grease for lube, oil for rust.

 

Respectfully,

 

Wizard

[Marauder SASS #13056]

I agree with Garrison Joe & Creeker.

 

Lots of choices for grease that work well, but I've been happy with Mobil 1  synthetic grease.

[Juan Solo]

5 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

For grease, try Sta-Lube Engine Assembly Lube. Has Moly and graphite.

Also excellent for M1A and Garand rifles.

https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3333-Anti-Seize-Engine-Assembly/dp/B000CPAWP6.

 

Try Silicon spray on the carrier. I like the CRC brand.

http://www.crcindustries.com/products/heavy-duty-silicone-lubricant-7-5-wt-oz-05074.html

 

OLG

I thought I was the only one that loved that CRC as lube. Glad to see someone else that extols it's values

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

9 minutes ago, El Cubano said:

I thought I was the only one that loved that CRC as lube. Glad to see someone else that extols it's values

It's excellent for door and padlocks also.

I use it on the cable on my Jeep's winch, as it helps the cable 'lay' correctly on re-wind.

Also works well for sliding glass doors and windows.

OLG

[Randy Saint Eagle, SASS # 64903]

I like STOS grease until I get ready to go to EOT, then I clean out all grease and use only Hornady One Shot Cleaner and Lube.

 

Randy

[Al OVERA, SASS#26238 Life]

If you're shooting in cold weather, get rid of any grease.  It will stiffen and slow the action.  In hot weather it's OK, but in cold I use Starret machine oil.  Thin and slick.

Al

[Phantom, SASS #54973]

Grease on a CAS gun is silly.

 

Ya take it apart regularly... Don't put crap in it that gets gunky.

 

Phantom

[Juan Solo]

5 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

It's excellent for door and padlocks also.

I use it on the cable on my Jeep's winch, as it helps the cable 'lay' correctly on re-wind.

Also works well for sliding glass doors and windows.

OLG

I actually use it to lube my 3d printed case feeder for my Hornady LnL. I also liberally spray the outside of my dies as it helps retard rust and makes them easier to get out of the press with out having to use the wrench

[Deuce Stevens SASS#55996]

Have to agree with Phantom, I prefer light synthetic oil. Generally run my rifles for about 2k before cleaning and my Ruger 3-4k before cleaning with an occasional

touch up on the lube points. 

[Smokestack SASS#87384]

The only place I use grease is in the lever and lifter cams. All other moving parts except the lifter get oiled. Grease is not necessary and makes the gun feel bad.  

[Chili Ron]

Howdy

Just keep in mind that cold weather can hurt performance.

One friend went hunting in Alaska and was told his rifle wouldn't work at all.

He had done a detail cleaning and used graphite to lube it.

It worked flawlessly and his hunting guide HAD to buy it right away.

 

In the cold, Remember if you pull a trigger and nothing happens, it COULD be that

the fireing pin is stuck. As the lube thaws the gun CAN fire and put

a bullet where ever its happens to be pointed.

Proper tool for the job.

Proper lube for the conditions.

Best

CR

 

 

[Clemsum]

I shoot BP and use both Eezox and Gun Butter on my 1866 (32-20) and 1873 (44-40) and Ruger revolvers.  I use Eezox internally and outside for rust prevention, and also on the carrier as a lube. The liquid in the Eezox evaporates and leaves a dry lube that does not attract fouling. I add a few drops of Eezox to the carrier walls and operate the lever a few times to distribute it when I clean the bore after each match. I have tried running the carrier dry and prefer the feel with the Eezox applied. The Gun Butter is a thinner grease than Mobile 1 (have used both) and I use it everywhere there are moving metal contact points. I only detail clean the "innards" of the guns about every year or so, and the grease is still there and functioning.

[Jackrabbit Joe #414]

When you live in Phoenix, Arizona you don't worry about it getting too cold..

 

Been here since 1962.

[Hells Comin]

1 hour ago, Jackrabbit Joe #414 said:

When you live in Phoenix, Arizona you don't worry about it getting too cold..

 

Been here since 1962.

Jackrabbit what is Rust ?

[Jackrabbit Joe #414]

Depends on what your asking there Hells?  Unless you mean me, myself & I. 

 

Waaa, Haw!

[Totes Magoats]

I use Lefty's method and the lube he sells.  He also built my rifle(s).

 

 

[Jackrabbit Joe #414]

Good job Totes Magoats.;  And I do of course lube working parts inside the plates, springs on lever.

 

Very nice video again Totes.

 

JRJ