Hawkeye Kid Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Picked up a new limited series Winchester (Miroku) Trapper. When cycling the lever, it requires a little extra squeeze to close the lever against the trigger safety tab. The extra pressure is not to engage the safety but to reach the point of engagement -amount a tenth of an inch. Cycling the lever is smooth except for the last 0.10 inches. Taking off the side plates, you can see the bolt face firm against the frame, the last 0.1 inches seems to be forcing the toggle link closed. Has anyone seen this condition before on a 73? Suggestion on the fix? Could this be toggle length issue? I would hate to send the rifle back and wait months for something I could fix myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Clark Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Have you shot it yet? I would think about running rounds through the rifle before trying to correct anything. Mechanical things sometimes need a break in period to settle down. I am trying to visualize where the bolt face is contacting the frame as well? Does the condition your describing happen with an empty chamber or with a cartridge in the chamber? The bolt face should be at the barrels chamber mouth when the action is cycled closed. If the bolt face is contacting the rear of the chamber, then that sounds like a tight headspace condition IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Kid Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 Picture may help. See arrow, bolt is against frame. Very slight space between the toggle link and where it connects to bolt. Second picture show when level is forced closed, space between toggle and bolt is gone. To close the lever required more pressure than necessary. No cartridge in action, not a headspace issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Run 100 rnds through it, and see what's, what. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Kid Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 I have 5 Winchester 73s and about 12 73 Uberti. This is the only one with this issue. I have cycled the rifle 40-50 times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-BAR #18287 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 The bind could be occurring anywhere from the firing pin extension to the breech face or in any of the moving surfaces inside the toggles, or the lifter or the carrier... just because you are seeing a gap at that point in the cycle does not mean that those particular surfaces are causing the bind. I would do as OLG suggested and see if it will wear in, after lubing all parts thoroughly. If, heaven forbid, the bind gets worse, you will have to decide to look for the bind yourself or employ a gunsmith. Good luck in any case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Place a ruler so edge lays on the center of the pins in both ends of the links. The center of the lever connection pin should be positioned so it lies on or even slightly higher than the edge of ruler when the bolt is fully forward and the toggle is locked. You know that the toggle link is locked only when the 3 pins are all in a straight line, or the lever connection pin (middle) is higher than the line between the two toggle end pins. Your pins don't line up in your first picture; they are straight in the second picture (where you are forcing the action to close). Compare to how your other 73s operate - the lever connection pin probably ends up slight "over straight", ensuring the toggle stays locked when the bolt tries to recoil. Without examining the contact points myself, I would guess that the factory left the front face of the block that hangs down off the bottom surface of the bolt slightly too fat, and that part of the bolt is stopping where it contacts the frame. In pic 1, that would be down from where the arrow tip is drawn, where the block is touching the frame in that picture. A little filing there to make sure that the bolt can go all the way forward (when no round is in the chamber) without any extra pressure having to be applied to the lever would be how I would think you would fix this problem. You can check by smoking (or Sharpie coloring) the front face of the bolt "block" and the back face of the receiver to spot where they are colliding. If they are not colliding there, then you have to look someplace else. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Clark Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 interesting... the photo does help to see the issue. I think GJ has solid advice to consider^^^^^^^ above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine Creek Johnny Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 I had one with the same issue. File to remove a little metal where the bolt is contacting the inner frame. Be sure to check and make sure you have some headspace clearance MCJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Kid Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 Great advise from GJ. Below are two photos from two different Winchester. Notice that the bolt block is not contacting the frame and the bolt block face is parallel to the frame. First pictue I the post shows an angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-BAR #18287 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 Good eye GJ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Kid Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 Little filing fixed the problem. Thanks GJ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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