Sgt. Saywut Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 The thread about roll vs. tapered crimps reminded me to ask you folks about setting up non-Dillon dies in your XL650 press. The Dillon instructions say that when you set up a new die in the press, to advance the die into the threaded hole until the bottom of the die is flush with the bottom of the head, then adjust from there. I’m using RCBS dies and a Lee factory crimp die for 38 Special, and currently I’m reloading once-fired Winchester White Box brass. I’m also using Missouri Bullet Company coated bullets, 125 grain RNFP, for a target COL of 1.475”. I’ve found that I had to screw in each die almost all the way before each functioned properly, such that only a few threads, if any, were left above the head. None of the dies are coming into contact with the shell plate when the handle is lowered fully, but I was surprised by how far into the head I had to screw each die. I am using the proper shell plate for 38 Special - I double checked. The dies are all working properly, though... except! The issue I’m having is with the Lee factory crimp die, which is brand new. In order to get any crimp at all, the die is threaded into the head as far as I can get it while still keeping the lock nut on the die’s threads, and the adjusting crimp screw in the middle of the die is screwed in almost all the way. In this state, the die is coming to within about 1/8” of the shell plate. Even then, I’m getting just a slight crimp that isn’t nearly as nicely rolled as the 45 Colt rounds I’ve been able to produce with the corresponding Lee factory crimp die. I know I’m doing something wrong. Anyone have any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Dillon's die plate (what they call a toolhead) is really thick. Lee's not smart enough to put enough threads on their die. So, solution for this is - put the lock nut on the bottom of the die plate. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buck D. Law, SASS #62183 Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Garrison Joe beat me to the draw. You're not doing anything wrong. My lock nut is on the bottom of the toolhead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt. Saywut Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 I hadn’t thought of doing that, so thanks for the tip. Are you folks also seeing the bottom of the die come very close, as in within 1/8”, to the shell plate while reloading 38 Special? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irish Pat Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 My Dillion 650 came with Dillion dies and they have always worked fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COLORADO JACKSON Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 I am using the Lee factory crimp die in my 650 and it works just like the Dillon , have not had the problem your having, ive got plenty of thread left. Maybe they make different length dies, not sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKFOOT SASS #11947 Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 7 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said: Dillon's die plate (what they call a toolhead) is really thick. Lee's not smart enough to put enough threads on their die. So, solution for this is - put the lock nut on the bottom of the die plate. Good luck, GJ That works for me. I have had it that way for a long time, no problems! Blackfoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go West Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 I use Dillon's die nuts with Lee dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Hanger #3720LR Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 I use Lee dies on y 650's. Tried the Dillon dies but ended up giving them away. Now a little explaining. When I started loading commercially, some 20 years ago, I found the Lee dies would not do a proper job of sizing or crimping. After some investigation, I, first found that the dies where to short on thread and I needed to put the locking nut under the took head. That was an easy fix. The second issue was a little more involved. When the die was screwed all the way do to the tool head, I Still could not get a full length sizing and I could not get the crimp down low enough on the case. Thought about it for a while and decided to remove about 1/16" from the bottom of the die. with a small grinder. I removed material but made sure not to contact the carbide insert. I then tapered the outside edge of the bottom of the die to fit in to the recess on the shell plate. This moved the die a little more than the 1/16" closer to the shell plate and all my problems where eliminated. Moving forward in time. New Lee dies started coming with the bottom of the dies tapered and I found I no longer needed to grind the bottom of the dies. I didn't even have to runt he die all the way down to the shell plate. Someone at Lees hear and listened to what we were doing with their dies and fixed the issues of using Lee dies on the Dillon machines. Still need to put the locking nut under the tool head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Whiskers Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 A few years back I went to a separate crimp die for 44-40. I could swear it's a Lee die but I can't find the container it came in and I don't see any maker's mark stamped on the die. I have 7-8 threads below the tool head of my 550 and the lock nut is on top. After reading the problems that's be stated in this thread, is my crimp die a different maker's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.