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Loading Shotgun Shells


Hashknife Cowboy

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Planning on getting into shotgun shell reloading, specifically for black powder.   What works and what should I stay away from?  Best machine or is it really worth the effort? 

 

Thank you to all y'all for the information.  Looks as if i'm gonna start......time to find the best prices on equip.......

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I used a lee load all for 8 years bought it on eBay for $20, slow but worked fine. Recently went to a lee load all 2 and can crank out shells faster, dip powder, plastic wad then shot. Keep it simple. Clean up with Windex then moose milk. 

Rafe

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Howdy

 

I no longer load shotgun shells for Smokeless, not worth the time or effort.

 

I load all my Black Powder shotgun shells on a MEC Jr.

 

One step above the Lee machine in quality. A bit faster too. I can load about four boxes/hour on the MEC, hand dipping the powder. I use the standard shot bottle for the shot. I will not put Black Powder into a plastic bottle.

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I too use MEC loaders for blackpowder loading , and for smokeless too ...

Loading Blackpowder in 16 ga . is  about the only way to get them ...

 

Jabez Cowboy

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Mec Jnr........Great  little machine.  I use a   dedicated BP Hornady thrower....basically except for the powder everything is the same as loading smokeless.

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You can load black powder shells without much in the way of tools.

 

 

 

I suggest using Winchester AA, or Remington STS or Nytro hulls as they have brass bases.  

 

Another option would be to invest in a couple of boxes of Magtech brass hulls.  You really wouldn't need much of anything to load and reload them. 

 

 

Another option would be to roll crimp the shells. I've modified my process some from the video - I'm now using an old MEC 600JR to size, decap,  and install new primers and just dip the powder with Lee dipper out of a small bowl.  

 

The first obstacle is to realise that loading black powder shotgun shells is a process with basic principles and not like loading smokeless where there are published "recipes" using specific components.  

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I use 3F APP and a 600 jr and once you get a rhythm down you can load about 4 boxes an hour. A step up from the 600 jr would be the MEC Sizemaster. Same number of shells per hour but it fully resizes the bases using a collet. As an alternative you can use a MEC SuperSizer to resize the bases.

 

If you load BP subs, you can put the powder in the bottle on the machine. If you are using real BP I would use a dipper.

If you get a MEC invest in an adjustable charge bar they are worth it..

 

I do not recommend a progressive shot shell press as your first machine for loading shotgun shells unless you are going to drop big bucks on a high end machine like a Dillon or Spolar. Progressive shot shell loaders are fickle beasts and can be quite frustrating.

 

PM me if you want my APP recipe.

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I use a Mec Jr for smokeless .

And a Lee Load all for BP.

 

The Lee load all will serve you well for many many years for a 45.00 loader

New on Amazon about 45.00 Shipped .

Comes with everything need to load,  you just need Materials .

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Look around for a good used Mec Jr.  They last well and are strong.  As others have said, for BP, no need to go with a more progressive.

 

Many shotgunners start with them then move up so they are readily available in good condition on the used market.

 

The Lee is another option and you can also find them used, but not normally as readily as the MEC.

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Howdy, as others have noted Mec Jr. is great little press.  Also Ballistic Products have a good selection of short shell wads that work great for BP, as well as the Win Red and Pink. Check out reply #25 of this thread for my favorite recipes. Good Luck:)

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,58045.25.html

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Piling on to the Mec 600 Jr initiative.   That's what I load BP shells with.

 

Watch out for?   Don't load more powder volume than you do shot.  Keep the load square or, as I found, less volume of powder than of shot.   Makes for better patterns.

Finding loading data is a little difficult.  If you want my 1 ounce BP load for Rem STS or Win AA hulls, PM me.

 

Good luck, GJ

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Ditto to the MEC 600 Jr.  Been using it for over 40 years (BP about 8).  I load Goex and 1 1/8 shot.  Works very well!  If the shot does not knock the targets down, the flames do.

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  I use a hand loading kit by Dave Casey. It's brass with a decapper, a metal base a solid capper/wad setter and a loader guide. I loadmy ten gauge3-1/2" brass 

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I use wads glued with Duco cement. I use a dipper for powder and for shot. I get accurate loads with no problem. The last thing I need is another loader on my bench.

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MEC Sizemaster and Ballistic Products wads, both BP and Heathen loads. 

Ballistic Products products cover every propellant/load variable possible.

 

Amarillo Rattler

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I recommend a non-progressive press for CAS.

It's cheaper and we don't shoot that many shells in a day.

Better quality control too.

When something screws up in a progressive press you have a mess and a brain fart to deal with.

 

Seeing your not loading a case of shells in a sitting, I don't think it's worth the money when you have 120 R & P casings staring at you from your loading bench after each shoot.

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Quote

Seeing you're not loading a case of shells in a sitting, 

 

I just loaded a case of shells Sunday evening - for SASS use!  With a progressive (Grabber)!  In about 3 hours. So you haven't been watching me.

GJ

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I have been using a MEC jr with an adjustable bar. I have it setup for a 1oz square load. My preference for wads are fiber wads,nitro cards and over shot cards from Circlefly wads. If I am being lazy then plastic wads. For loading smokeless I have a Mec 9000......will be getting a adjustable bar for that press and will also use it for my bp shells. There is somewhat of a learning curve on using a single stage and using a progressive...take your time.

 

 

Hochbauer

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On 1/8/2018 at 8:30 AM, Sedalia Dave said:

I use 3F APP and a 600 jr and once you get a rhythm down you can load about 4 boxes an hour. A step up from the 600 jr would be the MEC Sizemaster. Same number of shells per hour but it fully resizes the bases using a collet. As an alternative you can use a MEC SuperSizer to resize the bases.

 

If you load BP subs, you can put the powder in the bottle on the machine. If you are using real BP I would use a dipper.

If you get a MEC invest in an adjustable charge bar they are worth it..

 

I do not recommend a progressive shot shell press as your first machine for loading shotgun shells unless you are going to drop big bucks on a high end machine like a Dillon or Spolar. Progressive shot shell loaders are fickle beasts and can be quite frustrating.

 

PM me if you want my APP recipe.

SD.....tried to send you a PM concerning your recipe and it said that you could not receive PMs.  Can you please PM me your 3F app load.....how many cc powder, amount of shot...etc. 

 

Thanks,

Kajun

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Mec Jr for my BP and another for my Smokeless loads. I use the included plastic bottle, have had no problem. Do the same with my Dillon 550, use the plastic hopper with BP. Until someone can prove to me other wise, I will continue to do so.

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Brass shells, mostly, with Circle Fly wads.  At large matches, primed 2-1/2" hulls,  BPI 072SSW wads, 1 oz 7-1/2 shot, 2 drams of BP (~55 grains, ~3.5 grams), and overshot card.  Hand load the BP with a scoop, the rest on my MEC Jr with the 2-1/2" conversion plate.  

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I use a MEC Sizemaster.  I use a LEE dipper scoop to put the BP in, however.  After adding the BP, I return to the MEC to insert the wad, shot, and crimp the rounds.

 

I have everything to roll crimp shells, but it was more work than it was worth IMHO.

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If I'm feeling energetic I load brass hulls, circle fly wads. overshot card with Elmer's glue to keep it in place. I have an antique shotshell loading gizmo. If I'm in a time bind I use a Lee Load All. Hand dip the powder, use the press for everything else. It is not recommended that one use plastic hoppers with BP, there is a chance of static electricity making a big boom! (I don't know of any documented cases though. Probably like not talking on your cellphone while pumping gas)  I use 7/8 oz loads, slightly less FFG than shot by volume.

 

I think i'll load up a bunch of brass hulls for upcoming Plainsman matches. Get the extra "style points"!

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6 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

 

I just loaded a case of shells Sunday evening - for SASS use!  With a progressive (Grabber)!  In about 3 hours. So you haven't been watching me.

GJ

So did I...

But that is not the point of the OP.

 

We are talking to someone that does not already load, or shoot skeet/trap twice a week.

 

The cost of the machine does not have ROI in CAS for most shooters.

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A progressive has value to me.  I have limited time available.  I ONLY shoot Rem STS shells (because the hulls are SO much better in doubles), and I like a one ounce 1000 FPS load that is impossible to get from Remington.   So, I can knock out a month's worth in a couple of hours.  I don't save money.  But I do get value.

 

Good luck, GJ

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9 hours ago, Krazy Kajun said:

SD.....tried to send you a PM concerning your recipe and it said that you could not receive PMs.  Can you please PM me your 3F app load.....how many cc powder, amount of shot...etc. 

 

Thanks,

Kajun

PM sent. I also cleaned out my inbox

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16 hours ago, Hoss said:

If I'm feeling energetic I load brass hulls, circle fly wads. overshot card with Elmer's glue to keep it in place. I have an antique shotshell loading gizmo. If I'm in a time bind I use a Lee Load All. Hand dip the powder, use the press for everything else. It is not recommended that one use plastic hoppers with BP, there is a chance of static electricity making a big boom! (I don't know of any documented cases though. Probably like not talking on your cellphone while pumping gas)  I use 7/8 oz loads, slightly less FFG than shot by volume.

 

I think i'll load up a bunch of brass hulls for upcoming Plainsman matches. Get the extra "style points"!

Like you, I’ve read and viewed everything on Google/YouTube about BP, static electricity and plastic powder bottles. Only one anecdotal story of a BP explosion (friend said to friend, another friend had a BP explosion, no details). All lab experiments could not induce a BP explosion. 

 

Out of caution, I dropped all BP loads from a Lyman 55 for years.

 

I recently added a 10’ copper grounding rod with 10 ga wire to my loading area, concrete floors. It connects to my SG and centerfire progressive reloaders. Normal speed cycling, with voltmeter between progressive frame and grounding lead, shows ZERO voltage.

 

I wipe the inside/outside of the plastic powder bottles with a Bounce sheet before filling the bottle with BP.

 

Proceed with caution, Mileage may vary.

 

Amarillo Rattler

 

 

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16 hours ago, TN Mongo, SASS #61450 said:

Like Garrison Joe, I use a MEC Grabber.  I use a LEE dipper scoop to put the BP in, however.  After adding the BP, I return to the MEC to insert the wad, shot, and crimp the rounds.

 

I have everything to roll crimp shells, but it was more work than it was worth IMHO.

Shorter hulls are faster to load and easier to shuck than longer hulls, IMHO.

 

Amarillo Rattler

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Rattler,

 

My roll crimp experimentation involved AAs and I had problems with hulls sticking in my SKBs.  I've since switched to only Remington STS shells and have eliminated all problems.  I bought a drop-in checker for the shells and I was shocked to find that 1/3 of my once reloaded AA stuck.

 

I still have all my roll crimp stuff and I guess I could try it with my STS hulls and see how they work.

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2 hours ago, TN Mongo, SASS #61450 said:

Rattler,

 

My roll crimp experimentation involved AAs and I had problems with hulls sticking in my SKBs.  I've since switched to only Remington STS shells and have eliminated all problems.  I bought a drop-in checker for the shells and I was shocked to find that 1/3 of my once reloaded AA stuck.

 

I still have all my roll crimp stuff and I guess I could try it with my STS hulls and see how they work.

I had similar problem with AA. Then adjusted wad seating pressure to just nudge the indicator. No visible wad ring on side of hull and problem solved.

Amarillo Rattler

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