Lefty Dude, SASS # 51223 Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 JB-Weld may loosen and fall out. I did that lost half of the filled notch.. And yes I cleaned the face and notch very well before the application of JB's. Tig-weld is for ever. I have also dressed the notch, Mike's YouTube video shows. I have a 1861 that is not filled, only de-burred and dressed. However this is not my competition Revolvers. No Caps have been sucked from the Hammer and dropped in the innards of the piece. Some like the cap rake, however this open the notch wider and limits the cap face full strike on the cap. I prefer a full hammer face strike on the cap. Upon ignition the cap petals stay intact, and easily fall off the nipple on cylinder rotation. A distorted cap can cause cylinder hang-up by getting caught between the cylinder and frame. Just my opinion you understand, yours may vary. With my 51/36 Navies, most of the time at the unloading table I must pry at least 2 or 3 spent caps off the nipples out of the five. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bittertrigger Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 2 hours ago, John Henry Quick said: Another option is to use J.B. Weld - it's cheaper and less permanent. Mike Beliveau's video on cap-sucking shows how to do it. I used Mike’s video on de-burring the safety notch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Henry Quick Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 20 minutes ago, Lefty Dude, SASS # 51223 said: JB-Weld may loosen and fall out. I did that lost half of the filled notch.. And yes I cleaned the face and notch very well before the application of JB's. Tig-weld is for ever. I have also dressed the notch, Mike's YouTube video shows. I have a 1861 that is not filled, only de-burred and dressed. However this is not my competition Revolvers. No Caps have been sucked from the Hammer and dropped in the innards of the piece. Some like the cap rake, however this open the notch wider and limits the cap face full strike on the cap. I prefer a full hammer face strike on the cap. Upon ignition the cap petals stay intact, and easily fall off the nipple on cylinder rotation. A distorted cap can cause cylinder hang-up by getting caught between the cylinder and frame. Just my opinion you understand, yours may vary. With my 51/36 Navies, most of the time at the unloading table I must pry at least 2 or 3 spent caps off the nipples out of the five. 2 minutes ago, Bittertrigger said: I used Mike’s video on de-burring the safety notch On my own pistols, I just stoned the sharp edges on the hammer face and installed Slix-Shot nipples - That was last spring and I haven't had a cap-jam since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abilene Slim SASS 81783 Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Bittertrigger, the factory nipples are crap and can't be modified. Tinker all you want, but get a set of Slix or Ampco/Treso nipples, otherwise you'll never solve your cap problem. If you sell the gun for another, keep the nipples and put the factory ones back in. Bear in mind that they're specific to Uberti and Pietta. http://www.longhunt.com/storelh/index.php?route=product/product&path=88_97&product_id=267 http://possibleshop.com/s-s-nipples.html (scroll down to "AMPCO NIPPLES For Cap & Ball Revolvers" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Black Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Slix shot nipples help make the guns about 94% reliable. Cap Rakes with Slick shot nipples make them 99 % reliable . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bittertrigger Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 3 hours ago, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said: Bittertrigger, the factory nipples are crap and can't be modified. Tinker all you want, but get a set of Slix or Ampco/Treso nipples, otherwise you'll never solve your cap problem. If you sell the gun for another, keep the nipples and put the factory ones back in. Bear in mind that they're specific to Uberti and Pietta. http://www.longhunt.com/storelh/index.php?route=product/product&path=88_97&product_id=267 http://possibleshop.com/s-s-nipples.html (scroll down to "AMPCO NIPPLES For Cap & Ball Revolvers" I have not the pleasure of shooting the guns at a match as of yet. I will be replacing the nipples, planed on it all along, the tinkering is trimming down the grip frame and wood grips to fit my hands, hate the fishtail and the way the grips flares out, polishing up all the contact points and making sure everything is smooth and fits properly. I polished the hammer face (by the way they were not level, one was even cupped in the center) and de-burred all the sharpe edges on the safety notch and hammer I expect the same results with the caps on the new nipples, just wondering is it better that the caps stayed together or flare out and fall apart is all Thanks for all the good advice guys please keep it coming and thanks FKCGG don’t mean to hijack your thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abilene Slim SASS 81783 Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 With Slix nipples, mine split along the sides. Many stay on the nipples, while the rest fall off to the right side. Having one fall back into the hammer channel is rare enough that I haven't bothered with a cap rake. One day I'll install them, but I'm not in much of hurry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bittertrigger Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Just to show how much of the pistol grip frame was cut down now they fit like a pair of Ruger Vaquero plow handles with Eagle Gunfighter Grips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Dude, SASS # 51223 Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 All of my Cap & ball revolver Cylinders wear Slix-shot nipples. Oh I forgot not this one; Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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