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Fixing a SKB forearm


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Went and practiced yesterday and in the process put the gun down a little hard. (did not really feel hard though)

The forearm felt odd and on inspection have a crack about 2 inches long running from the edge where it touches the barrel towards the fatter part of the forearm.

Still all in one piece and would like to have repaired so it is done right (I am not a real woodworker)

Model 200 E

Who would you suggest or if it can be done by local types what should I look for?

 

Regards

 

:FlagAm: :FlagAm: :FlagAm:

 

Gateway Kid

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I moved this to the Wire for you. Perhaps you'll get more info here...not that Saloonatics wouldn't know or perhaps be able to help but, well,...they are Saloonatics...:D 

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It is hard to visualize setting down the gun "a little hard" and having the forearm split.  Your description is a little unclear.  Do you mean it is splitting lengthwise?  I.e., down the long dimension of the forearm?  You have a 200E so there are a few things to check to see how much repair might be needed.  The 200E, which stands for ejector, has a potential problem for SASS shooting.  There is only one screw holding the wood to the forearm metal.  When the ejector mechanism is removed almost half the metal is sticking out into thin air.   Here is something to look at.  First see if the screw is tight.  Remove it and the wood.  Look at the bottom of the metal (the side facing the wood) and there is a round raised boss.  This boss fits into a matching hole in the wood.  Check to see if the wood around the hole is solid.  If cracked, compressed or broken the forearm will most likely split in two at some point.  I had one split down the middle because no matter how tight the screw was tightened the wood moved a little after five or six shots.  Finally had to glass bed the forearm to the metal.  The top photo is a non-ejector SKB (Model 100, 150, 200, etc.)  Notice the two screws.  The bottom photo is the 200E forearm that has been glass bedded.  Notice the glass bedding fills the void where the ejector mechanisam use to be and now gives someting for the metal to rest on.  I had drilled a second hole for a second screw but it was not needed after the glass bedding.  If you glass bed the forearm there is a small hook on the bottom of the metal that needs to be milled flat or the metal will be permanently bonded to the wook.  (Ignore the slot in the wood in the lower photo.  I put that in there to help reinforce the two forearm pieces when they were glued back together.)

 

 

DSC_0052.jpg

DSC_0050.jpg

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thanks so much larsen

In the second photo the split starts just about even with the empty hole to the rear at the top outside edge and travels forward lengthwise (and slightly towards the middle of the forearm) to just before the slot with the release mechanism. If it was a 3D image the split would just miss the main screw. Don't know if the rough handling caused it or was already started to split as this gun is my dry fire/practice gun and I think I may have missed it before. Was working on my right hand discard and putting it down on the left side which is why I noticed the crack on top. Normally discard with left hand and the cracked side would be on the bottom.

the nut imbedded in the wood is indeed chewing up its hole and somewhat loose, I have been tightening the screw every match and thought I needed a new screw due to buggered up threads or something but after reading what you said it appears to need more than that.

So lets see if I understood what you said:

1 I need to repair the current split

2. I need to get the embedded nut glass bedded to hold it securely to the wood of the forearm

3. I need to glass bed the metal into place to prevent future splits

I will take the metal out in the morning to better understand the "hook"

again -Thanks for the insight

 

:FlagAm: :FlagAm: :FlagAm:

 

Gateway Kid

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Required materials.

Regular set epoxy - Fast and medium set epoxy does not have the strength to hold. This is not easy to find at your local home improvement center.

1/16 brass rod - Obtain from you local RC hobby store.

Various clamps and rubber bands.

Masking tape.

 

Usually on the fore stock their is not enough wood to drill and pin. However, you can hollow out a shallow channel under the metal to lay in a piece of the 1/16 brass rod across the crack. Try to get at least 1/2" of the rod beyond the crack if possible.

After you have made the channel, practice clamping the fore stock until you are satisfied you have the best way to clamp it together. Use masking tape to protect the finish.

Lay the brass rod in the channel you made and carefully pry apart the crack to allow some of the epoxy to run in the crack. Mix and apply epoxy to the open crack and the channel, completely covering the brass rod. Clamp, wipe off excess epoxy with acetone and allow to dry for 24 hours. 

 

After the repair is complete it is always a good idea to glass bed the wood to the gun for extra strength.

 

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I would use JB Weld instead of any regular epoxy. Strongest stuff out there. I used it to repair a forearm on one of my SKBs.

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Epoxies like JB weld are too thick to flow into the crack. For crack in wood that aren't splintered and broken across the grain I use high quality super glue like Henkel-Loctite. It's thin enough to easily flow into the crack and many times depending on the exterior finish the crack will disappear.

 

If this is in a hidden area bedding does help but, it does much better if there is some sort of reinforcement. For glass bedding I use Fiberglass Cloth.  But it needs to be thin light weight. This is the stuff I use; Hobbico Fiberglass Cloth 3/4 oz 1 Square Yard

I will sometimes use it with the gel type superglues, too.

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Thank you all for taking the time to provide invaluable guidance and freely sharing of your experience.

Cannot tell you how much that means to me.

I will be evaluating what to do next, especially as it pertains to my skill level (or lack thereof:P).

Responses like this are why I love this game, so many people who will jump in to help, share and offer assistance just because they can.

Appreciate everything

 

Regards

 

 :FlagAm: :FlagAm: :FlagAm:

 

Gateway Kid

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39 minutes ago, Gateway Kid SASS# 70038 Life said:

.

I will be evaluating what to do next..............

 

Appreciate everything

 

Regards

 

 :FlagAm: :FlagAm: :FlagAm:

 

Gateway Kid

 

What to do next is exactly what Johnny Meadows said to do. Send it to him. With a shotgun that nice you want it fixed correctly. Send it to Johnny. Get it done right. ;)

 

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32 minutes ago, Shooting Bull said:

 

What to do next is exactly what Johnny Meadows said to do. Send it to him. With a shotgun that nice you want it fixed correctly. Send it to Johnny. Get it done right. ;)

 

 

Done on the way in the morning

 

Gateway

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14 hours ago, Gateway Kid SASS# 70038 Life said:

 

Done on the way in the morning

 

Gateway

 

You have my word, you won't regret it. ;)  (If he gives you any guff just let me know.  I'll be down in his next of the woods this weekend and will kick his scrawny butt. :lol: )

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