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Replacement parts; Marlin, Uberti


Hopalong Mac McLin

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Because I have had so many issues lately, I am looking for a source for a replacement parts kit including the usual parts needed for a Marlin and a Uberti El Patron.357.    Do such things exist?

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94 CBL.  I have replaced the trigger 3 times ( end breaking off), replaced the lever spring clip,  the spring in the bolt, and now, after replacing the last trigger, the hammer will not stay back when I tighten the hammer screw securely.    Thankfully, I took my backup to the last match,  but it sure would be nice to have an extra set of screw, springs, etc.   I have purchased many parts from Midway and  Brownells but would be great to have extras.

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Give these folks a call.

They just brought out a new style of extractor also. I run one, and it is outstanding.

http://www.rangerpointprecision.com/

 

What is the history of this rifle? What mods and by who??

I have never heard of someone breaking the 'end' of the trigger off, like you have.

The hammer screw issue is also an odd one. :wacko: I have had them pinch/bind the hammer when tightened, never had a full-cock issue like you are hav'n..

You may also want to get in touch with Widdowmaker Hill on this forum.

Also keep check'n with Brownells and Midway as their inventory changes daily.

OLG

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The issues have all been fairly recent.   The rifle has worked like a charm, with only a few malfunctions which were easily corrected, for a couple of years.  It was slicked and tuned by Boomstick Jay, who did a very nice job.   The triggers were Phantom straight triggers, which I installed to eliminate the Marlin bite and increase speed,  and, according to Slick McClade, they were built with bad steel and he has discarded his whole inventory built with that steel.   Unfortunately, I had 3 of them.   Slick's customer service was fantastic and I got replacements by next day delivery.  The jury is still out on whether the new ones are any better quality.   I have not fired the rifle yet, because of the cocking issues.   I did polish the sides a little to prevent binding.....but, as you point out, it might still be binding when tightening the hammer screw and need to be polished down a lot.   Binding  has never been an issue on this rifle with the Phantom trigger,  but was on another I had.   Guess I'll take out the old power tools tomorrow.

 

Still would love to have some parts.   Widder, any suggestions?

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I'll first comment on your hammer not staying cocked.

Anytime a new trigger is installed in the 1894, the amount of cocking travel of your hammer can change based on the full length of the new trigger sear.

 

IF your cocking LUG (the hump on the bottom of the bolt) has been tweaked to barely cock the hammer during the cycling process, changing out the trigger can effect the hammer from cocking sufficiently that the hammer cocking notch won't make contact with the trigger sear section.  Therefore, the hammer won't stay cocked.

SOLUTION:  use a different trigger that is a few .000's SHORTER, or.... weld up the cocking lug (hump) on the bottom of the bolt and reshape it accordingly.  You can also get someone who knows their stuff to recut (reposition) your hammer cocking notch.

SAFETY NOTE:  remove all the components of your bolt before welding up the lug (hump) and try not to overheat it.

 

If it were me, I would go back to the original factory trigger and have SLATER weld it into a 1-piece.  This will probably set the sear section correctly for the hammer cocking notch.   If that don't work, I would have a good GUNSMITH WELDER build up the cocking LUG on the bolt and reshape it accordingly.

I will PM you my phone number if you want to give me a holler tomorrow afternoon.

 

Lumpy is 'on the money' with his recommendation for the Ranger Point Precision Extractor for the 1894.

Right now, I'm using one and it is functioning great.

I also use one of Slick's one-piece Extractors in my other .32 H&R Marlin and it also works great.

Another part to keep is an Ejector.

And it never hurts to use a 1-piece firing pin or keep one as a spare.  

 

..........Widder

 

 

 

 

 

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Mac-will the rifle stay cocked, if you cock it manually?

If yes-Look first at the sear nose of the trigger and then the hammer 'bump' on the bolt.

FWIW: I have had to rebuild the 'bump' on all 3 of our M/94's over the years.

Do you still have the OEM trigger?

IF you do-install it and see if the other issues go away. 

PLZ let us know-

OLG

 

 

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Thanks, Widder and LG.  I am going to buff the straight trigger to verify that binding is not preventing it from engaging the sear.  If that doesn't work....put the original trigger back on.    Plan is to ship it to Widder to have Slater weld the 2 piece trigger into a one piece and probably have Purly add some metal to the bump on the bolt.  I love this little carbine  and want to keep her running faithfully.  The rifle worked seamlessly with the straight trigger for 2 years.....strange that this is happening now.....as you said, probably worn the bump out.

 

 

Thanks guys.

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Widder will take great care of you.

Do consider the RPP extractor we spoke of. This extractor improved the smoothness in feeding and extraction in all 3 of our M/94's and especially my wifes:wub:  .38 Special CBC.

Let us hear how it works out.

OLG

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Did all the trouble shooting, polishing,etc., reinstalled the original 2 piece trigger, and it corrected the problem.  Therefore, worn bump on the bolt was the problem.  Thanks for the help LG. 

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I will bet the issue was the aftermarket trigger is out of spec. As in the sear side of the trigger is way too long.

Make sure ALL screws are 'tite'. A very small drop of blue Loctite(#242 or #243) works wonders here.

Good luck,

OLG

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