Slowhand Bob, 24229 Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 I recently purchased a pair of the new stainless Ruger Vaqueros, 4 3/4" barls in .357 and immediately ordered two sets of Wolfe springs from Brownells. On arrival I disassembled the first pistol pistol with relative ease, love my Brownells mag tip screw drivers and their punch sets, though I still want a full set of brass punches. BUT alas, I digress. The RE- assembly was the beginning of my nightmare, starting with the fact that I had not read the instructions concerning capturing the assembly with a tool/nail. From here it only became more interesting. Once the new Wolfe hammer/action(?) spring was on the whatchamacallit I began trying to depress the whole assembly back into place and found that fifteen years of retirement and onset of arthritis had seriously reduced my hand strength so I sought help on the wire and was told about the fork trick, thanks guys, (but I am left wondering about the half dozen or so springs and retainers that are still missing). A safety reminder guys, always wear yore safety glasses when working on Rugers OR when test firing guns I have serviced fer you. After receiving all the parts I thought I would ever need, I was ready to finish reassembly (what a silly notion). After losing all of the little springs and pins that function the bolt and the pawl I once again called Brownells for more spare parts! I am curious to know, do you guys ever get someone on the phone there that snickers every time you call? At any rate, as hellish as the notion of dropping the trigger assembly and the hammer assembly in as separate parts and all of them sliding in as a single unit, crap, I can actually see the Ruger video flicker at the exact moment he drops those parts in while he looks smugly at the camera and not even glancing at what he is supposedly doing, HA bub I caught you @!&)!, this whole masquerade pales at whats next. Who in the world came up with the idea of that weird multi multi spring/ part contraption from Hades that works the cylinder gate, holds the trigger pin and thirteen other odd functions(I think?). I will not get any more into that story, it actually gives me a headache. Just remember one thing, we have not even mentioned the other Ruger that was still waiting its turn! No problem, this was sure to be a breeze with all my recently acquired 'new' kowledge and experience, yes? NO! This required days waiting for TWO more parts orders and watching those same dang videos over and over and over again! And to think this was only chapter one, both pistols ended up in surgery a second time over the last two days! Another story for another time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Null N. Void Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 It took me two days to disassemble and reassemble my first Ruger Vaquero. I've got that down to about an hour with much less colorful language. Hang in there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado Coffinmaker Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 You've obviously missed the most important chapter in the Ruger owners booklet. The chapter begins with "We do not intend that you as the consumer should ever dis-assemble your knew-two-ewe Ruger pistol. The chapter ends with: We did not intend that you as the consumer should ever dis-assemble your knew-two-ewe Ruger pistol. The chapter is only two sentences long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fingers McGee Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 And yet another advantage to shooting Colts or clones. Fingers (Show Me MO Smoke) McGee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 That's what happens, when you leave Ruger engineers alone, without supervision. Rugers are simple-Try taking apart any John Browning designed lever rifle....... OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
August West, SASS #45079 Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Here's the very best Ruger SA book on the market. https://www.amazon.com/Ruger-Single-Action-Revolvers-Volumes/dp/B000KMTGDA OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.D. Daily Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 I own 2 OMV's & 3 NMV's. After struggling with reassembling the 1st one I determined that the grip frame doesn't have to be removed to change the main & trigger springs. This eliminates having to deal with those tiny coil springs. As for the installation of the main spring I find a drill press & a drill press vise reduces frustration to a minimum. I clamp the hammer strut in the chuck and mainspring seat in the vise. The drill press greatly reduces the force required to compress the spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yusta B. Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 52 minutes ago, J.D. Daily said: I own 2 OMV's & 3 NMV's. After struggling with reassembling the 1st one I determined that the grip frame doesn't have to be removed to change the main & trigger springs. This eliminates having to deal with those tiny coil springs. As for the installation of the main spring I find a drill press & a drill press vise reduces frustration to a minimum. I clamp the hammer strut in the chuck and mainspring seat in the vise. The drill press greatly reduces the force required to compress the spring. Excellent procedure. However, if you don't have a drill press you should be able to get by with a hole drilled into a 2X4 that just accepts the strut(diameter wist, & a small set of vice-grips for the seat. Or a vice for the strut. Not as easy, but doable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 As for the posted vid. There is no reason, that the hammer strut w/spring in position and the trigger return spring can't be installed after the grip frame housing is attached to the main rec'r/frame. In fact-It's much easier to do it this way. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Quote "We do not intend that you as the consumer should ever dis-assemble your knew-two-ewe Ruger pistol. About 10,000 rounds down the bore and reading the manual - no desire to disassemble. Just tighten the screws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly Dave Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 First time or two is a bear, after that, much easier. On the gate spring, I struggled with getting that where it's supposed to go while re-assembling until someone on the wire told me if it rides up, don't worry, after you're done just use a piece of wood to push on it and it will snap into place. I understand Rugers now, with that false boost of confidence I tried to work on my bro in laws Piettas, big mistake. Had to have him send them to a smith. Edit to add - never saw the need to replace springs myself, just did mine to install super black hawk hammers, and have since put SBH hammers in a pards pair as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Augustus Goodnight Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Here's another video that I found to be of great help when I first started pulling my NMV's apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 One of my best customer gets a Christmas present from me . I send him a new Dremel tool every year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001 Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 as the old German said " das machine verks , is NOT for ze finger poking und mitten ghrabin " in other words , leave stuff alone , OR , pay someone to fix it CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowhand Bob, 24229 Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 So sad, so sad, yall give me a day or two to calm down and I'll let ya know where I am. Besides I gotta order some more new parts, I just know it, I really do! One thing that some might find a plus in, these guns have really been artifishally aged now by a few years and have yet to fire their first round. I do fully understand now why the Ruger guy recommended having some brass punches, even though though steel ones worked, kinda. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Riot Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 54 minutes ago, Augustus Goodnight said: Here's another video that I found to be of great help when I first started pulling my NMV's apart. 5 hours ago, Slowhand Bob, 24229 said: ..and watching those same dang videos over and over and over again! The guy in the video that Augustus posted is a bit messy but it;s a good video for the directions and examples. Now, Below is my hammer / main spring tool. I got a 1/4" Inner Diameter aluminum tube from Ace Hardware. I use the tube to compress the spring onto the hammer strut. The strut is cinched into a vise. The spring is placed on the strut and then compressed with the tube WITH THE LITTLE DOO-HICKEY BETWEEN THE TUBE AND THE BOTTOM OF THE SPRING. The slots in the tube are to install a small brad or nail in the hole in the strut...they are also there so that you can see the hole as you compress the spring. At the end of the split end of the tool you can see I narrowed the tool a bit. That is so that it fit better into the little doo-hickey that goes on the strut below the spring that holds it in the grip frame. This tool will also work on a few different firearms. I wish I could show you photos of how I use this but I have never been able to use the tool and take photos at the same time. I only have 2 hands...I am sure you understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 5 minutes ago, Slowhand Bob, 24229 said: So sad, so sad, yall give me a day or two to calm down and I'll let ya know where I am. Besides I gotta order some more new parts, I just know it, I really do! One thing that some might find a plus in, these guns have really been artifishally aged now by a few years and have yet to fire their first round. I do fully understand now why the Ruger guy recommended having some brass punches, even though though steel ones worked, kinda. I know of no part on a Ruger Vaquero that requires a punch to remove. If there is one you probably shouldn't remove it any way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Pat-You can do the same, with an open-end adjustable(crescent)wrench. When you put the strut in the vise. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yusta B. Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Not trying to be mean or critical, really, but - if a fella looks at a new project with cowboy guns/gear, and he isn't pretty sure how to do something, he might otta get on this here wire. What with the number of smiths who lurk here and generously contribute their knowledge, and the combined resources, there is a great wealth of help available right here on this screen. Just sayin... The very best wishes for you to get this project completed without any further hitches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Riot Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 33 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: Pat-You can do the same, with an open-end adjustable(crescent)wrench. When you put the strut in the vise. OLG True but you can use this tool on other firearms as well. Winchester hammer springs come to mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Good point Pat! OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 50 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said: I know of no part on a Ruger Vaquero that requires a punch to remove. If there is one you probably shouldn't remove it any way. firing pins Rugers are notorious for poor firing pin protrusion. To correct it you will need pin punches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 2 hours ago, Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 said: firing pins Rugers are notorious for poor firing pin protrusion. To correct it you will need pin punches. Thanks for the info Nate. I have never had occasion to remove them so I was unaware that a punch was needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Howdy Yup, it can be very trying to take a New Model Ruger apart the first few times. Actually, it's easy to take them apart, it can be a bit difficult putting them back together again. One thing I try not to forget is once the gate spring is in position, don't flick the gate open again. That is pretty much guaranteed to pop the spring out of alignment. Also, it helps to have a slave pin to help drive the trigger pin in place. A slave pin slightly smaller in diameter will keep things lined up as you slowly withdraw the slave pin and shove the pivot pin in place. Then again, you could look for a Three Screw Ruger. They come apart and go together almost the same as a Colt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid Rich Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Cool little small screw and parts tray you got there Driftwood. I always wondered what those were for. kR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheyenne Ranger, 48747L Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 I shepard 8 Rugers counting friends and family my advice: practice makes perfect that and watching a video or two on the process some folks benefit by putting everything in a gallon zip lock bag the first few times and working through the open top so springs and such stay in the bag cheyenne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie MacNeil, SASS #48580 Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 I have also found that the exploded view drawing in the Vaquero owner's manual is our friend when it comes to putting one back together the first couple of times... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cold Lake Kid, SASS # 51474 Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 BOY Howdy!! Am I ever glad I bought pre-tuned Rugers!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Beam Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 I had pretty much the same experience you had. I had bought a pre-slicked up Ruger, and they had been slicked up so much they wouldn’t fire. I disassembled to replace the spring with one slightly stronger, and also missed the part about using a pin to hold the parts together. Hours later, I got it all together again, but my hands were somewhat ruined. After shooting it for a while I found that there was a problem with the loading gate and it would need to go back to Ruger. Everyone said that Ruger pulls out any nonstandard parts and replaces them, but I remembered the nightmare of disassembly and figured I’d just get new parts so I’d only have to do it once. Sent it to Ruger, got it back, and it turns out that Ruger didn’t remove my modifications, they just corrected the problem and left it alone. Maybe even they don’t want to take it apart that much! Now I know how to take apart a Ruger, and if I have to do it again I may find myself owning a new Uberti instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowhand Bob, 24229 Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 HMMMM, If I send it back to Ruger, is it possible that they might add a mat finish to the stainless, covering all thet new character around the pin holes? I actually need these guns on hand now, what with Irma out there wandering around toward the east coast! HAHA , I would just show my new Ruger to any burglar as an example of what I could do to them with my little punch and brass hammer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Not hard to polish out the marks with a towel and some Fritz polish? Hope you are not using household/auto-mechanic type screwdrivers on those screws. Nut'n on those guns need or should be removed via a punch. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid Rich Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 20 hours ago, Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 said: firing pins Rugers are notorious for poor firing pin protrusion. To correct it you will need pin punches. How do you fix this? Thanks. kR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Good thread to be moved to the FAQ forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackey Cole Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 I have tools made by Wes flowers that make the chore somewhat easier if I ever need to take them apart and put them back together. But normally knowing the conditions of my body I need them out I learned that 12 years ago. Johnny does excellent work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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