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.38 special bullets and powder recommendations


Michael Ricochet

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12 minutes ago, Michael Ricochet said:

 

Hmmm, not sure why that is. My PM folder is nearly empty. However, thank you for trying and for posting your information here. I appreciate all the info that everyone has provided. Just need to get some bullets and start reloading!

 

Ricochet

certainly could be on my end. 

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8 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Get some sample packs of different bullet weights to try.

 

Listen to OLG. Try to beg, borrow or buy different bullets from fellow cowboys before you order 1K or more. I have a very picky Browning 92 and I have sold/given away many partial boxes that wouldn't feed in my rifle. For what it's worth, mine won't feed anybody's TC's, only 158 RNFP's. In the end, your best results in loading for a 92 come from experimentation and not giving up.

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Its easier if you do not tune the the round between rifle and pistol.  I used to have a gun range 5 minutes from me and I could load up different rounds and go paper them in no time.  I found 158s were more accurate, but now I am loading 105s!  You could get sampler sets of coated from badman bullets and others.  You can print out a powder burn rate chart to compare powders.  I use win 231=Hp38, but that really does not mean much as there a lot of choices.  Only federal primers here.

 

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One thing to keep in mind when loading cartridges to an OAL other than the one specified in loading manuals for that bullet weight and profile. A longer OAL means more case volume and this WILL DEFINITELY have an affect on how a given weight of powder behaves.

Classic example is Trail Boss.  If you load to the manual published minimum for a given bullet but seat to a longer OAL the additional case volume will have a negative  and potentially dangerous impact on Trailboss loads. Here is a link showing the formula for working up Trail Boss loads for any cartridge.

 

Other powders will also be effected due to the increased case volume that results from a longer OAL. I tried the favorite pet load for Clays in my 38 special loads and had a lot of issues with blowby and unburnt powder as a result of my longer OAL / case volume. I upped the charge a small amount and those problems went away.

 

  I suggest that you work if you seat to a longer OAL that you start with a load that is in the mid range for your chosen powder and carefully work  your way down to lighter loads. carefully watching for poor combustion, unburnt powder,  large SD, and other undesirable performance.

 

Unless you well versed in working up loads; I strongly recommend against using loads that are below published minimums.

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9 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said:

I suggest that you work if you seat to a longer OAL that you start with a load that is in the mid range for your chosen powder and carefully work  your way down to lighter loads. carefully watching for poor combustion, unburnt powder,  large SD, and other undesirable performance.

 

 

 

My thoughts exactly... thank you for the sound advice!

 

Ricochet

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2 hours ago, Sedalia Dave said:

One thing to keep in mind when loading cartridges to an OAL other than the one specified in loading manuals for that bullet weight and profile. A longer OAL means more case volume and this WILL DEFINITELY have an affect on how a given weight of powder behaves.

Classic example is Trail Boss.  If you load to the manual published minimum for a given bullet but seat to a longer OAL the additional case volume will have a negative  and potentially dangerous impact on Trailboss loads. Here is a link showing the formula for working up Trail Boss loads for any cartridge.

 

Other powders will also be effected due to the increased case volume that results from a longer OAL. I tried the favorite pet load for Clays in my 38 special loads and had a lot of issues with blowby and unburnt powder as a result of my longer OAL / case volume. I upped the charge a small amount and those problems went away.

 

  I suggest that you work if you seat to a longer OAL that you start with a load that is in the mid range for your chosen powder and carefully work  your way down to lighter loads. carefully watching for poor combustion, unburnt powder,  large SD, and other undesirable performance.

 

Unless you well versed in working up loads; I strongly recommend against using loads that are below published minimums.

You just explained why I had a problem with a TB load that I just couldn't work out.

 

It is so obvious now that I have the answer, through dumb luck:blink: I went to the increased load solution.

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130 grn RNFP bullet in front of Bullseye powder. 1.45 OAL. Same load both rifle and pistol. BULLSEYE is cheap, $103/8lb and I can load over 17K with it. 

 

Always handles knockdowns 

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  • 1 month later...

Have more time on my hands than healthy.  So I experimented with various bullets, and molds. Came up with the following that seems to work well in both my Vaquero's and Urberti/Taylor 73 "Codified".

Cast using Lee 6x 95 gr .356 at bhp 12 and water dropped.  Then coated with Habor Freight powder.  Tried all the methods for coating.  For me, the AirSoft BB's and vibratory cleaner gave the most consistent result but, took enormous amounts of time and effort.  Using the electrostatic paint gun is the easiest, cleanest and almost as consistent as the BB's.  All the Acetone methods were too messy.  

Then sized at .358".  Crimped in crease fairly tight (until finger nail ran smoothly over joint).  Loaded with Trail Boss  Initially had some problem with the rifle not setting off the CCI primers but I believe a slight increase in the firing pin spring tension is the answer.

Recoils are significantly reduced from the Missouri #2 bullet with same load.  Less smoke than using the Lee Alox.  Grouping is not perfect but at CAS distances well within requirements.  

Comments? Please?

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6 minutes ago, Renegade Roger said:

Have more time on my hands than healthy.  So I experimented with various bullets, and molds. Came up with the following that seems to work well in both my Vaquero's and Urberti/Taylor 73 "Codified".

Cast using Lee 6x 95 gr .356 at bhp 12 and water dropped.  Then coated with Habor Freight powder.  Tried all the methods for coating.  For me, the AirSoft BB's and vibratory cleaner gave the most consistent result but, took enormous amounts of time and effort.  Using the electrostatic paint gun is the easiest, cleanest and almost as consistent as the BB's.  All the Acetone methods were too messy.  

Then sized at .357".  Crimped in crease fairly tight (until finger nail ran smoothly over joint).  Loaded with Trail Boss  Initially had some problem with the rifle not setting off the CCI primers but I believe a slight increase in the firing pin spring tension is the answer.

Recoils are significantly reduced from the Missouri #2 bullet with same load.  Less smoke than using the Lee Alox.  Grouping is not perfect but at CAS distances well within requirements.  

Comments? Please?

Renegade Roger,

I edited your post. Load data is not allowed.

 

Regards,

Pat Riot

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On ‎8‎/‎27‎/‎2017 at 6:36 PM, Michael Ricochet said:

 

Hmmm, not sure why that is. My PM folder is nearly empty. However, thank you for trying and for posting your information here. I appreciate all the info that everyone has provided. Just need to get some bullets and start reloading!

 

Ricochet

If Coyote Carson is close to you he carries a full stock of Cimarron bullets and will give you some samples to try, save the shipping

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4 minutes ago, COLORADO JACKSON said:

If Coyote Carson is close to you he carries a full stock of Cimarron bullets and will give you some samples to try, save the shipping

 

I did not find a member named "Coyote Carson"????

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Just now, Michael Ricochet said:

 

I did not find a member named "Coyote Carson"????

 I will PM you his number....CJ

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On 8/26/2017 at 7:10 PM, Michael Ricochet said:

.357 shooting .38 special

 

Ricochet

Some casters sell extra long bullets to load in .38 Special cases so the OAL is closer to that of a .357.  You could try these.  I like them because I can crimp in the crimp groove.  I like coated bullets and are switching to them as I use up my supplies of uncoated bullets.  Your W231 will make ammo suitable for CAS.   However I've also loaded with Bullseye, Unique, American Select and Green Dot with success.   Clays is a favorite locally.  Some load with Clay Dot too.

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The wife and I use 130gr RNFP for both rifle and resolvers (misspelling intentional) loaded with either Win231 or HP38 (essentially the same stuff).  We get the bullets from Standard Bullet Company near Chicago.

 

One comment I haven't seen, although granted I read through this quickly, is your nickel cartridges.  Keep a close eye on them for cracks and bulges.  Nickel doesn't last as long as brass.

 

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IMHO people over think this part and many go way too light for their own good. Any good powder will do just fine. Some like Tight Group have a little more perceived recoil but in the big picture it's no big deal......it's what you get use to.

 

I have used Clays, Red Dot, VihtaVuori, Tight Group, Trail Boss, Power Pistol etc and they all do fine with the correct recipe. Now I use Clean Shot because our local vendor is at most of our matches and I hand them the money and they hand me the powder.....no hasmat, no shipping etc. 

 

IMO for SASS just load up to a solid mid range load and go. I use to make it much more difficult but now it's just one load for everything. 

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Junky purdy much sed it, Im a red dot man cause i been shootin it since day one. main thing is get ye some recoil from your load. Dont stand tha gun up but dont let it just sit there when it goes off either! I never been beat by a cowboy shootin a lite lite load!!

 

 

 

RRR

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Can't go Wrong with Promo/ Red Dot in .38 spl...  Puts the special in da .38 .....

Almost as good as Goex 3F ....

 

 

Jabez Cowboy

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