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DIY leather lever wrap.


Warden Callaway

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5999ccaec43a2_LeatherlevercoverAug2017.jpg.2ef0522cb6abc6fb09595f64e0ab2228.jpg

 

I have several rifles that need lever wraps. Also another couple that have some kind of cover that I'm not real pleased with.  The other day I followed Sawmill Mary into Hobby Lobby.  I'm always browsing for something I can put to use in my gun hobby.  I came across the leather display.   I ended up buying a bundle of larger pieces of scrap,  waxed cord and needles.  I figure I have enough materials to make a hundred lever wraps for less than $10.  

 

While I'm pleased my first effort, the experience has shown where I could improve.   One, the leather is soft like used in upholstery or jackets or handbags.  While I like the thin, soft feel, the holes I punched to stitch it up would "heal up" so I had to search for them and reopen them.  The cord I picked out was the same color as the wrap leather so it became difficult to keep track of the stitches.

 

I think the next one will go easily and turn out better.  I may put out a video showing how I did it.

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Been saying I got a nasty cheap side.  Have made most of my wraps. Think the first one I used the tongue from a pair of my fathers boots. Hate to throw good pieces of leather away.   waiting for the video, can probably  pick up some tips.    GW

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The only concern is how the leather was tanned.  The "standard" practice can encourage rust. 

 

So I soak the leather in Ballistol first, then again after I apply it to help dilute the tannins and avoid rust.

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Howdy,

I like the ones that snap on and off.

they can easy be moved from rifle to rifle.

They can be taken off for routine clean up.

And they can be made from scrap leather.

A friend of mine did a lotta leather for a while.

I paid for some snaps and got back a lifetime supply of lever wraps.

Some of em even came with a little fringe to look a bit more western.

I know they don't match my holsters, big deal....

did ya see Chomper is back????

Best

CR

 

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I particularly like an extra thickness (1/8th Inch or so) on the inside of the "wrap."  I glue it in permanent.  When a rifle runs "light" and you run it hard and run out of throw, it can hurt.  A LOT!!

 

PS:  I forgot.  I also like a contrasting thread colour.  White or Red.  My personal favorite is RED!!

 

PSS:  Be real CAREFUL getting the wrap behind the trigger!!

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That looks nice, Warden.

 

What I used under the leather on the inside of the lever was some double sided weatherstripping tape that I got at either Home Depot or Lowes.  It comes in different thicknesses and widths. It comes in different firmness, too. The kind I used was white and I liked it because it a little firmer. It's standing up to use really well.

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599a26c255358_CoyoteCap1887April2017.jpg.e3b438c5271e076c07121b51bc88ed5c.jpg

 

I had a Coyote Cap 1887 with a snap-on lever cover.   I have some snaps some place and the tools some place too.  If I could just remember where someplace is!

 

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I made the lower holster over 30 years ago.  The leather was a little too light for the job but it is a great carry holster.  I made several way back when.

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Take a look here: https://pvgunworks.com/Product-category/lever-wraps/

nice quality stuff, very comfortable on your fingers in the lever!

 

TB

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Chamois. Wrap until just before illegal and drop a couple of drops of liquid super glue under the flap. Better than a Serta.

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8 hours ago, Marauder SASS #13056 said:

The only concern is how the leather was tanned.  The "standard" practice can encourage rust. 

 

So I soak the leather in Ballistol first, then again after I apply it to help dilute the tannins and avoid rust.

 

Just for that reason I use a layer of electrical tape first

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11 hours ago, G W Wade said:

... Think the first one I used the tongue from a pair of my fathers boots...  GW

 

so after you lashed it onto the lever you had a tongue lashing from your dad?

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I have wrapped my levers using leather lace type strips for years but I never got the knack for sewing so my more than feeble attempts at making a leather wrap looked just awful. The first time I wrapped a lever I had read where you should protect the lever with something to keep it from rusting. I opted for automotive wax. 3 or 4 coats just like you apply it to your car's hood. It works, up to a point. It will not last years but seems to be okay for about a year. At some point I decided to quit taking the wrap off and left it. I am sure my lever won't rust to pieces and as far as I am concerned the lever will always be wrapped anyway so I gave up on fooling with protecting the finish. 

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I bought one once and when I saw how it was made I decided to make a patern out of it before I installed it.  Since then I have made mine out of elk or suede.  The leather is nice and soft yet durable.  I have used red, white and teal thread in a baseball style stich.  I have sometimes treated with balistol but not always, depends on how dark I want it to be.  As previously stated just watch the clearence behind the trigger when you install them.

 

Charlie

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Warden, you know that Lonesome Rider and Cherokee Halfbreed, who we shoot with in Higginsville regularly, do a great job with leather. I always have Cherokee do my lever wraps. I know you like to do your own work so at the very least they can give you tips. They have their annual cookout following their shoot on September 2. You might want to talk to them then.

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As long as the lever has the extension on the back end there is no need for the leather behind the trigger, as it won't go anywhere.

lever_wrap.jpg

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32 minutes ago, Bart Solo said:

Warden, you know that Lonesome Rider and Cherokee Halfbreed, who we shoot with in Higginsville regularly, do a great job with leather. I always have Cherokee do my lever wraps. I know you like to do your own work so at the very least they can give you tips. They have their annual cookout following their shoot on September 2. You might want to talk to them then.

 

Yeap, Lonesome is doing a lot of leather work for several of the clubs in central Missouri.  He made my suspenders and several butt covers for us. Always a pleasure shooting with and visiting Lonesome and Cherokee.  

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42 minutes ago, Springfield Slim SASS #24733 said:

As long as the lever has the extension on the back end there is no need for the leather behind the trigger, as it won't go anywhere.

lever_wrap.jpg

 

The Marlin lever doesn't have the notch behind the trigger on the outside like the 73 and I like the padding on inside front of loop. 

 

Does the snaps wear holes in the blueing?

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I have used this guys method on all my lever rifles since I started several years ago, and they have always stayed on fine, never came off, work great and super cheap...

 

BD

 

 

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I have never understood how some people use the lever wrap. I used the wrap to make the lever comfortable for my fingers. 'Course, if you shoot enough, you learn where the wall is and it will save the sensitive back of your fingers.

If those lever wraps gets wet, you wind up with body armor when it dries, especially if you are at a match and the sun does the drying. The difference between a single layer of leather over steel does not a finger pad make.

"Levers may be wrapped or padded with leather or other natural material.   Filler "blocks" or other such mechanisms designed to prevent all or drastically limit movement of the fingers within the lever loop are not allowed."

Three or four wraps of chamois does not constitute a Filler "blocks" or other such mechanisms.

Works very well on the butt plate.

 

Copy of Win 1873 comparison 002.jpg

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Red Cent: If you use oil tanned leather like I do and not Vegetable tanned leather it will no harden after getting wet. I like the snap wraps as I shoot BP and clean with water so I take it off, otherwise the trapped water may rust the lever. Haven't noticed any bluing wear as I put a small strip of leather in there to keep the snaps off the bluing, and it also pads it more.

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That makes good sense SS.

Vegetable tanned leather is not the rust culprit. Chrome tanned leather will cause rust. 'Course, wet leather of any kind will cause rust.

I guess I could "dress up" the chamois wrap but, man, that stuff is soft.

Actually, if one uses a light coat of Weldwood adhesive/contact cement under a wrap and directly on the steel lever, it won't rust.

Hmmmm, need to look at putting snaps on the chamois.

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Cool topic. I have been holding off adding to my beloved steel lever, yet. For those considering sewing, take an idea from this sailor, the baseball stitch or herringbone might be quite nice, especially for contrasting thread or sinew. I am getting closer to doing this and will likely use a corrosion resistant adhesive/coating and a matching chocolate (to my bandolier strap set up) properly treated cover probably sewn with black stitching, style yet to be determined. (I have to break out my sailors' bible of knots and stitches before deciding.) Just saying. It's a small thing but properly done the detail and care will show and reward your shooting hand.

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Raincrow, you may be putting a bunch of work into something you might want to change. But I can appreciate the look.  I simply get out the scissors if it gets too dirty and/or too wet.

Gotta watch the number of wraps though. There are finger wrap police out there :) 

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