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1860 Henry Springs


Paden

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Hello,

I disassembled my 1860 Henry for a complete cleaning. After reassembly the lifter does not align with the bottom of the frame when the action is closed. I need to know the correct positions for the lifter and lever springs please.

Regards,

Paden Tolbert, 277 Life

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YouTube is your friend Pard .

Just Saying.

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1 hour ago, Paden said:

Hello,

I disassembled my 1860 Henry for a complete cleaning. After reassembly the lifter does not align with the bottom of the frame when the action is closed. I need to know the correct positions for the lifter and lever springs please.

Regards,

Paden Tolbert, 277 Life

Henry, Uberti or Winchester?

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If you have the OEM springs in the gun, they are not fit to the front radius of the frame and will sit rather catiwumpus.  They are also way too heavy (oversprung) and you may not be able to get the right without destroying the screws.  While your piddling with it, I'd suggest you invest in a set of SlixSprings and fit them to the gun.  Your Henry will thank you.

 

Whether your Carrier Block will flush with the bottom of the frame will depend on the set up of the Carrier Block Arm.  The carrier block does not have to be perfectly flush with the bottom of the frame, although it does look nicer.

 

You will need to correct the radius at the back of the OEM springs before you can do anything.

 

 

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The springs are OEM. The Henry worked well until I disassembled same. I will get the SlixSprings and give it a try.

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Make sure the springs are actually pushing on the part they are suppossed to push on. I assume you assembled the gun with the spring screws loosened and tightened after the sideplates were installed? I hate to insult anybody but IMHO the Slix springs are even more difficult to install than stockers, at least on '66's. 1873's not so much as you can tighten them before the sideplate is installed.

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Actually, I use an "assembly" screw, although a correct fitting punch will do.  Tighten the lever side springs as you reassemble the rifle.  The last thing you will do is install the side plates.

 

 

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4 hours ago, Springfield Slim SASS #24733 said:

...but IMHO the Slix springs are even more difficult to install than stockers, at least on '66's.

IMO, the same is true of the 1860.  I installed a set in mine, and they worked for exactly 5-½ stages of a 12 stage match.  In the 6th stage the lever spring came off the lever cam and locked the rifle up tight.  I installed a spare over-nite and it worked exactly 1-½ stages when it did the same thing.  I used a back up rifle until I got a break and could put the stock spring back in.  The stock spring, tho' heavy, is still working 6 months later.

 

When it slipped off, the spring went under the lifter arm, and bent.

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Confidentially ......... If Slix ..... or Wisper ...... or OEM side springs are correctly fit .. they stay put just fine.  They need to be installed and properly tightened BEFORE the side plates go on.

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Maybe on an 1873, but if you tighten the springs on a '66 or '60,it is very difficult to get the lever bolt installed. With stock springs, they are exactly the right length so that when the coves are installed they are held in the right place. With the Slix this is not so, so they have to be tightened down before the cover goes on. I have ground stockers in my '66's but Whisper's in my '73's for this reason. Now, maybe if you have you Whispers/Slix set up ultra light this isn't a problem, but I like a bit more pressure on my springs for reliability. I shoot BP and need the extra pressure to keep things moving. There is nothing wrong with stock springs if set up properly, it is just more work to get them ground just right.

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Very true with the stock springs Slim.  There is however a technique for setting up the springs in a '66 or '60.  The right angle on the Slix also needs fit so the spring just "kisses" the side plate.  The end of the right angle also needs polished so it doesn't gouge the lever.  Slix work very well indeed.

 

Coffinmaker

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