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Question for those of you who shoot Rugers...


Noah Cash

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Recently I received a pair of NMV's from one of the big name Cowboy Gunsmiths and have/had an issue. 

      In order to shoot a bit faster, we sometimes "Slip-Hammer" by holding back the trigger and pulling back the hammer and releasing it repeatedly.  Once brass was in the chambers,  My new revolvers would NOT slip hammer.  Empty chambers, no issue, worked fine, however the firing pin was being held forward by transfer bar and was scoring a significant line on brass and primers if enough force was applied to hammer to force the cylinder to turn.  One revolver of the pair I couldn't get to turn at all.

         I called the smith, and was told that was a deliberate "Safety Feature" by Ruger, because they (Ruger)  did not want  them to be fired in that manner due to safety concerns.   This Smith didn't disable that feature because I did not specifically request that it  be disabled.

        Now  I have 3  sets of Ruger's that do slip hammer fire fine, 2 sets of SASS NMV's and one pair  I bought and "Tuned" myself.  The standard NMV's I installed SBH Hammers and they still work fine.  These 6 revolvers have worked fine since day one.

This smith IS fixing this issue for me at no charge, and I can get these guns delivered by a friend to avoid $60.00 overnight shipping via FEDEX, so the issue is resolved, no names need be mentioned,  however I don't  believe the no slip hammer is a deliberate feature installed by Ruger. I believe that this story is a line of crap to cover up the fact that this issue should have been caught and fixed before sending these out as tuned and comp ready.  My friend is much more gun savvy than I and he too believes that this line of crap is a cover up rather than admitting fault.   Stuff happens,  I just do NOT appreciate being lied to in order to cover up an oops that should have been caught!

 

The question is,.....Have any of you folks run into this issue ? Have all your Rugers been able to Slip Hammer  right out of the box?  Am I mistaken in my belief that this is a line of crap??

 

Your input is /  would be  greatly appreciated!

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Nope...I shoot Gun Fighter, can't slip hammer. If I shot 2 handed, I wouldn't do anyway as I don't think its safe.  Just me...........

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My Old Models and my newer SASS New Models will both slip hammer no problem. I try not to do it, but it does happen from time to time.

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My NMV both slip hammer just fiine.  I tried it once just to see if i could shoot that way, I can't.    I bought them from a popular smith with all the bells and whistle.  This doesn't really help you with your question.  

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I do not slip-hammer , but have in the past a few times. But that is totally beside the point. I do not believe the story that this is a new "safety feature" on single action Rugers.  If it is the real deal , I am VERY surprised , and curious as to how it is set up to hold the transfer bar against the firing pin constantly.

Rex , :D

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Firing pin retracts fine with good spring retraction when the trigger is forward,  and transfer bar is down 

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In addition to the firing pin return spring mentioned by Marauder, the base pin also has a spring loaded plunger on the end of it that pushes the transfer bar to the rear so it doesn't get hung up on the firing pin when the trigger is pulled.

 

Your *well known* gunsmith either doesn't understand how these things work, or he's removed/modified things he shouldn't have.

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cylinder pin also has spring installed and feels like it has the same tension as all the other rugers

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Slip hammering is for greenhorned tin horns. Shoot one-handed. You'll feel better about life.

 

:P

 

:D

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All of mine have slip hammered since the day I took them out of the box/shipping container.  Great way to shoot things you did not intend to shoot if one isn't careful.  Just get them fixed and enjoy the shooting!

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Afraid you did not get an accurate answer from that smith. 

 

Besides, on a lot of top-end pistol action jobs, the Ruger transfer bars get removed and the hammer welded up.  Or a totally new hammer is substituted. 

 

Good luck, GJ

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I have been shooting Rugers exclusively in CAS for 20 years, never heard of such a feature on a Ruger.  Every one that I have had,( some had been gunsmithed and some not), would sliphammer.

 

Blackfoot

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Mine appear to slip hammer, never do it on purpose but sometimes they get a little ahead of me and I assume I didn't let off the trigger enough when cocking.

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Noah, I think your 'smith is a BS'r but he may be right about the gun coming from the factory this way.

 

Neither of the 2 New Vaqueros I had / have (I sold one, still have one) slip hammered. I really didn't care as I don't do that...on purpose. I kind of liked the fact that they didn't.

Anyway, I tore the one that I have now down completely and installed new Wolff springs. It now will Slip Hammer.

I do not know for sure why it wouldn't except that I know it wouldn't slip hammer before because I tried it because I had read on another forum about a year ago that a guy was complaining that his would not slip hammer so I tried mine and they didn't. I just verified that my NV will slip hammer now.

 

When I tore it down I didn't see anything out of the ordinary but honestly, I wasn't looking for anything out of the ordinary. I have been racking my brain on how or what part would have to be installed incorrectly to make the gun not slip hammer but I can't come up with anything. It did work just fine otherwise before and after the spring change out.

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So far, thanks all who responded, My next E-Mail will be to Ruger customer service and get them to confirm / deny the slip hammering "feature".  While I still firmly believe that I was being fed a line of BS, I do not want to create ill will by not checking all the bases.  If Ruger states that they do in fact disable the ability to slip hammer, I will accept that and just let it go as a learning experience.  If  Ruger  denies the blocking of that ability I want to let this gun shop know that the person answering the phone who is NOTthe 'Smith, is feeding customers a line of BS rather than just admitting an "OOPS".  If it is an OOPS the customer should not have to pay for the shipping.

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It may be that the transfer bar is hitting the firing pin and causing the problem. Try cocking the first round without pulling the trigger. After you fire the first round keep the trigger pulled all the way and cycle through the rounds. 

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That is what I have been doing.  My first thought was that the transfer bar was catching on the underside of the firing pin, but upon close examination the bar is over the pin for the first shot, and will not retract as the hammer is pulled back for the follow on shots.  Even trying to help it retract by prying with a small instrument it does not drop back unless I release the trigger at least a small amount.  The transfer bar is staying up and maintaining pressure on the firing pin, scribing a fairly good scratch on primers and casings if I pull hard enough on the hammer to get it to rotate the cylinder.

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It would interesting to know if the gunsmith who worked on your Rugers replaced the firing pin springs with a weaker spring.  I have heard some gunsmiths thin the transfer bar and bevel the top some so there will not be a hitch when the transfer bar slides over the firing pin.

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14 hours ago, Noah Cash said:

....I called the smith, and was told that was a deliberate "Safety Feature" by Ruger, because they (Ruger)  did not want  them to be fired in that manner due to safety concerns....

I doubt it.The New Model on which your NMV is based was introduced in the early '70s. SASS and CAS came around about 8-10 years later, slip-hammering (which it isn't) came still later

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 The top of the transfer bar has been tapered and polished to be smooth, but not thinned.  This is getting interesting.  E-Mail sent to Ruger,  reply expected within 3 days.  I'lll keep you folks posted on the reply, but I think I know what it will be....

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2 hours ago, Noah Cash said:

That is what I have been doing.  My first thought was that the transfer bar was catching on the underside of the firing pin, but upon close examination the bar is over the pin for the first shot, and will not retract as the hammer is pulled back for the follow on shots.  Even trying to help it retract by prying with a small instrument it does not drop back unless I release the trigger at least a small amount.  The transfer bar is staying up and maintaining pressure on the firing pin, scribing a fairly good scratch on primers and casings if I pull hard enough on the hammer to get it to rotate the cylinder.

It is supposed to do that.  If you are slip hammering and holding the trigger back the transfer bar stays UP.  Remember, the transfer bar is connected to the trigger.  If you do not release the trigger the transfer bar is NOT going to retract.  I doubt you will ever get a confirmation from Ruger that their guns are designed to "slip hammer" as that is a cowboy thing and not something regular shooters would do.  On the FIRST shot if you pull the trigger before cocking the hammer the transfer bar is going to hit the bottom of the firing pin.  On the first shot cock the hammer, pull the trigger and then keep the trigger to the rear for the subsequent shots.  As you cock the hammer the spring in the base pin should push the transfer bar to the rear enough for the firing pin to retract.

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Noah,

I should mention that I did change the Hammer on my NV to a SBH hammer. Not sure if this would have any bearing on the issue.

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"The transfer bar is staying up and maintaining pressure on the firing pin, scribing a fairly good scratch on primers and casings if I pull hard enough on the hammer to get it to rotate the cylinder."

 

"It is supposed to do that."

 

Larsen, I thought the transfer bar "hung out" in its space connected to the trigger, no springs involved. I don't understand how the firing pin would scratch the primer.

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15 hours ago, Marauder SASS #13056 said:

The gun should have firing pin return springs that retract the firing pin after firing.  On all the Rugers.  So they should slip-hammer.

 

Unless he removed that spring.

Does the cyl pin have the spring loaded plunger in it?

Maybe non-Ruger cyl pins were installed.

My OMV and Wifes NMV, can be slipped.

OLG

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Sounds like someone bent the transfer bars too much. If you're pinning the trigger and it's holding the firing pin down...it's overcoming the cylinder pin spring and the firing pin spring. That's a pretty cool safety feature...rolls eyes...Smith should be outed to avoid others having a similar experience.

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As Carolina Gunslinger says, I would be concerned about what was going on inside that revolver.  Something is not working correctly if you cannot slip hammer. 

 

You may not want to, but it should be possible.

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