Remington NMA hammer overtravel.... is there an easy fix?

[Hellgate #3302 L]

I have a nice little Euroarms Remington Navy 36 (same design as the NMA) that has quite the overtravel of the hammer. When cocking, the hammer will continue for about another half inch. I know how you can drill & tap a small set screw into the inside surface of the grip frame of a colt under the mainspring to limit the hammer travel. Since you cannot remove the grip frame on a Remington it looks like you need to drill into the front of the grip frame right behind the trigger guard where your finger is gonna grip and rub. I don't want to do that if possible, plus it would show on the outside. I notice that the back of the cylinder has wear from the hand jumping the notches. Do I need a new cylinder (that is no longer made)? Should I just epoxy a metal stop inside the grip frame?

[Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933]

Before you do anything you have to figure out why the hammer has 1/2" of overtravel as that indicates you have something worn or broken.  First test.  SLOWLY cock the hammer and as soon as the hammer engages the trigger at full cock stop pulling the hammer.  Is the cylinder in battery?  I.e., if you reach up and turn the cylinder is it locked or does it move clockwise until the bolt drops in?

[Hellgate #3302 L]

As soon as the trigger locks up the bolt immediately comes up but the cylinder is not in battery until I pull another 1/4". Then the hammer rocks forward 1/4" at rest (at full cock). The cylinder locks up at the rear of the hammer arc (after the trigger has set) then the hammer rests forward a bit (which is what bugs me).

[Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933]

This is what makes diagnosing problems difficult.  I asked you to stop pulling the hammer when it hit full cock and twist the cylinder.  You apparently didn't do that.  Based on what you have said an overtravel stop will do you ZERO good.  Things to check.  First check the hand spring as you said the cylinder has wear from the hand jumping the notches.  Next you have to check the hand itself as a worn hand will cause overtravel.  The amount of overtravel is so great you also need to check the tip of the trigger to see if it is broken off.  Finally, check the hammer notches for wear.  It is the hand pushing against the ratchet after the bolt has engaged the cylinder notches that stops the rearward motion of the hammer. Only after everything is fixed and adjusted will an overtravel stop do you any good.  After everything is fixed and adjusted the overtravel stop will help slow or stop wear.  An overtravel stop cannot fix wear.

[Hellgate #3302 L]

I did what you said and the bolt dropped into the slot when I turned the cylinder a bit more. Would a taller trigger help? I have some spare parts. The hand spring does not feel weak. I have the gun in hand. I'll knock it apart and see if there is evidence of a chipped trigger sear.

[Hellgate #3302 L]

FWIW On half cock the trigger rests pretty far forward in the trigger guard giving little room for the trigger finger.

[Hellgate #3302 L]

Larsen,

Ya fixed it for me. I pulled out the trigger and I've never seen such a short sear so I rifled through my spare Remington parts ans found a Euroarms trigger which was much "taller" in the sear, dropped it in and now the gun locks up like it should and the trigger doesn't go so far forward in the trigger guard. It has a much nicer feel when cocked. Thanks. Sorry to be a poor student for such a good teacher. It is obvious the sear had broken off and had been reshaped and put back in the gun.

[Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933]

I just got home.  Glad you figured it out.  Now you can put an overtravel stop in if you want to and it will do you some good.  Putting an overtravel stop in a Remington can be a PITA so I would just shoot it as is.

[Hellgate #3302 L]

I locks up just fine  now.