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Brass Shotgun Shells


Big Rock, SASS #44055

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I have a question about brass shotgun shells. What shell lengths do you use, those that shoot them, do you go with the chamber length, for doubles, or just use a standard length like 2 1/2" or 2 3/4"?

 

One manufacture says on their website to go with the chamber length.

 

 

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Whatever length they are when I get them I have a bunch from several sources I plan to use in the future when I have a chance to load them after getting the correct cards.

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Old%20reloading%20tools_zpsqebjz6ym.jpg

 

Sometimes in an antique store.  I happened onto these at a small gun show.  The vendor actually had an antique shop but brought a lot of old books, musket parts, and other relics.   I later ran across more old shotgun tools. You just have to know what to look for. 

 

 

I actually made a functional equivalent out of wood as shown in this video.  I needed a better way to seat large pistol primers in 10 gauge hulls.  Take a piece of hardwood about the size of a survey stake, cut two pieces about 6" long (I shortened the ones in the video after discovering that I didn't need all the leverage).   Install a butt hinge. Close and drill a small hole through one and just start into the other.   Open, drill large hole through the small hole the correct diameter for hull to slip into but catch on the rim. If I remember right, for 12 gauge, that would be 3/4".  Install a small screw in the little hole you started when you drilled through the first time.  You my need to flatten the screw head.  You're done.

 

20160722_192420_zpsl02ccabj.jpg

 

But I've caught up to modern times.  I figured out I could buy a 12 gauge shell holder from RCBS and use a Lee primer setup in a single stage press. 

 

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/214811/rcbs-cowboy-shellholder-12-gauge-brass-case

 

https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/7578

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I have always wanted to try this, for brass 12 ga. and possibly 20 ga shells. Thanks for posting Warden Callaway these are very informative videos.  I like the wooden tools to help remove and seat the new primer.

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PLUS ONE to Warden Callaway.

 

I spent several seasons loading All Brass 12s with my drill press.  Used the drill press to de-prime and prime.  Worked well, but often didn't quite seat the primer fully.  I found a good buy on a Lee Classic single stage and added an RCBS 12Ga die to it.  Should have done that to start with.  Makes loading All Brass 12s Uber quick and easy

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Right off,  loading 10 gauge is far more expensive and harder to obtain components.   New 10 gauge brass hulls are some 10x more expensive than Magtech 12 gauge hulls. New plastic hulls are 10x more expensive than new plastic 12 gauge hulls - if you can find them.  Then they have to be cut down from 3.5 to 2-5/8" or 2-7/8".  Then they don't hold up past a couple of loadings with black powder.   

 

For brass hulls,  you'll need 9 gauge fiber wads.  With plastic hulls,  10 gauge plastic wads are available.  

 

Otherwise loading is the same methods.  Chuse your shot charge and the black powder charge will be the same volume or a little less.  With black powder subs, use even less.  

 

 

But shooting an original Colt 1878 10 gauge with antique brass hulls on NewYears Day,  priceless. 

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2 hours ago, Texas Lizard said:

Lots of good info...Anyone want to add 10ga info???

 

Texas Lizard

 

For hammered  10 ga and 1901 lever 10 ga... 

 

That's what I was originally going to ask about, 10 gauge.  I just got one.  Isom Dart says he uses 3" brass in his 3" chambered 10 ga.  Alas, RMC (Rocky Mountain Cartridge) want $120 for 10 3" brass.  Magtec doesn't make 10ga. There are some cheaper if you use shorter than chamber length,hence the original question.

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7 minutes ago, Big Rock, SASS #44055 said:

 

That's what I was originally going to ask about, 10 gauge.  I just got one.  Isom Dart says he uses 3" brass in his 3" chambered 10 ga.  Alas, RMC (Rocky Mountain Cartridge) want $120 for 10 3" brass.  Magtec doesn't make 10ga. There are some cheaper if you use shorter than chamber length,hence the original question.

Other places sell short brass...Just need to see which is better for the needs...Might use this for plainsman and night shoots...Night shoots if I can get the  fire breather look...

 

TL

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Grafs has Federal and Cheddite plastic hulls in stock.  At $40.79/100 it would be lots cheaper.

 

https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/category/categoryId/4040

 

And you can load with BPI plastic cup wads.

 

https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/75247

 

These are the same wads I've use in 12 gauge brass hulls. 

 

 

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58e18f49615c2_12to10gaugehullsApril2017.jpg.c1caf4ee32715d5e35c4b0ed2648900f.jpg

 

At the risk of having people think that I'm crazy, here is something I tried that worked.  Left is 10 gauge hull.  Next is a Magtech 12 gauge hull with brass ring from 10 gauge plastic hull held on by JB Weld.  Then 12 gauge Magtech hull, and on right is a sleeve from a 10 gauge plastic hull. 

 

They ain't easy or quick to make but they work!  I shot one several times and the brass didn't expand at all. I was really hoping it would blow out but it didn't. 

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1 hour ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

 

At the risk of having people think that I'm crazy, here is something I tried that worked.  Left is 10 gauge hull.  Next is a Magtech 12 gauge hull with brass ring from 10 gauge plastic hull held on by JB Weld.  Then 12 gauge Magtech hull, and on right is a sleeve from a 10 gauge plastic hull. 

 

They ain't easy or quick to make but they work!  I shot one several times and the brass didn't expand at all. I was really hoping it would blow out but it didn't. 

 

I have seen similar adapters to shoot 12ga in a 10ga.

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