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Deuce Stevens SASS#55996

OT: S&W Model 10 spring kit

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Off topic here but figure I can get a answer. Has anyone used the Wolff, Wilson Combat or Miculek spring kits for the S&W Model 10 and do you they work well for you?

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One of the first things I always did when acquiring a new S&W was to polish the contact points and install a Wolff spring kit. They work well without making the hammer fall to light to be reliable

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One of the first things I always did when acquiring a new S&W was to polish the contact points and install a Wolff spring kit. They work well without making the hammer fall to light to be reliable

 

+1

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I put a Wilson spring kit in my 686 which was the rebound spring and main spring. It came with three different rebound and I used the lightest first which I really like. But I found I started getting light primer strikes with the main spring while shooting double action. Single was fine. I put a longer firing pin in but still had light strikes. (I'm using Winchester primers BTW)

I finally found a fix by taking a spent large pistol primer and digging out the anvil which just left the cup and putting that between the main spring and the strain screw to give it a bit more tension. Its still lighter then the factory but I think a Wolf spring kit may be better.

my .02 cents... your mileage may vary. :)

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Not to hi-jack your thread here Deuce but I haven't been able to find a manual that gives very good instructions on Disassembly and Reassembly of S&W revolvers.

I don't want to learn by trial and error but I have a couple of older revolvers that I would like to re-do the springs as they are weak.

Do any of you know a good resource for this that also list the special tools needed?

 

My apologies for the hi-jacking.

 

Pat Riot

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Not to hi-jack your thread here Deuce but I haven't been able to find a manual that gives very good instructions on Disassembly and Reassembly of S&W revolvers.

I don't want to learn by trial and error but I have a couple of older revolvers that I would like to re-do the springs as they are weak.

Do any of you know a good resource for this that also list the special tools needed?

 

My apologies for the hi-jacking.

 

Pat Riot

 

Pat, I'm sure there are many others but I liked MannyCA's videos on slicking up a S&W revolver. He goes into great detail. As far as tools, just a good set of screwdrivers that you may already have. Revolvers are easy.

 

He has it broken up into two parts. In these videos hes working on an older model 686 but the same can be used for just about any Smith.

 

Part 1

 

https://youtu.be/soM7MaK3T1A

 

Part 2

 

https://youtu.be/qkVIeiSWSiM

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I have a S&W 929 eight shot 9mm that I am working on to get back into IPSC shooting. Which spring you use depends on what you are going to use the gun for. The Miculek is made for Federal ammo (the 147 grain subsonic load is the go-to load for the 929) or reloads with Federal primers and says so in the instructions. It is intended to be set up with a trigger pull gauge and when adjusted properly to give a seven pound double action pull. I would not use this setup for a self-defense gun.

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If you prefer text and photos to a video, here's a good thread on Model 10 disassembly:

 

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/s-w-model-10-disassembly-inspection-select-repairs-and-reassembly-discussion.397027/

 

You may have to log in to click on the thumbnails to blow them up, I don't know. The website made a transition and the old photos got "X-ed" out I guess, but the thumbnails in each post still respond.

 

Probably a combination of the video and stills will work best.

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The two most important things to remember about disassembling a S&W revolver;

 

1. Use a proper fitting screwdriver. Deformed side plate screws makes it obvious the gun was taken apart by a amateur and worked on by Bubba.

 

2. Do not pry the side plate off. It will warp the side plate and it will not fit flush again pretty much ruining the gun. The side plate should be removed by a series of light taps on the grip frame.

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Not to hi-jack your thread here Deuce but I haven't been able to find a manual that gives very good instructions on Disassembly and Reassembly of S&W revolvers.

I don't want to learn by trial and error but I have a couple of older revolvers that I would like to re-do the springs as they are weak.

Do any of you know a good resource for this that also list the special tools needed?

 

My apologies for the hi-jacking.

 

Pat Riot

AGI videos with Bob Dunlap are as good as it gets

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Go with Wolff. Best there is. They are a major supplier of the OEM springs gun-makers use today.

Yes-I have used Wolff springs for decades in my guns with 110% satisfaction.

 

OLG

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For J frame models I used Apex Tactical Duty spring kit to lighten up the action for my wife.

For L frame I used Wolff springs and polished alligator with crocus cloth. Almost scary smooth action.

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Not to hi-jack your thread here Deuce but I haven't been able to find a manual that gives very good instructions on Disassembly and Reassembly of S&W revolvers.

I don't want to learn by trial and error but I have a couple of older revolvers that I would like to re-do the springs as they are weak.

Do any of you know a good resource for this that also list the special tools needed?

 

Howdy

 

This is the best book there is on the subject. This link brings you to the author's sight. You can also buy it from Midway or Amazon.

 

http://www.gunbooks.com/sw.html

 

 

It is not cheap, but it is the best. It is a complete gunsmithing guide for S&W revolvers, covering everything from simple disassembly to complex smithing.

 

 

 

As far as tools are concerned, I have a pretty complete set of Brownells Magna-Tip screwdrivers that I use for all my gun work.

 

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/screwdrivers-sets/magna-tip-sets/magna-tip-super-sets--prod417.aspx

 

 

 

The only speciaized tool I use to take a S&W revolver apart is this one. Removing the rebound slide spring from a S&W revolver is the trickiest part, and this makes it a little bit easier.

 

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/slide-tools/s-w-rebound-slide-spring-tool-prod774.aspx

 

 

I have used the Wolff spring kits in S&W revolvers, they work fine. But mostly I take old Smiths apart to clean out decades of old gunk. I often find that a complete teardown and clean up is all an old Smith needs to get it working well again.

 

Yes, use proper fitting screwdrivers, and do not pry the side plate off. The Kuhnhuasen book shows you the proper way to remove a side plate.

Edited by Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283
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Wolff gunsprings all the way. I have used them on numerous occasions. Never been disappointed.

 

RBK

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Off topic here but figure I can get a answer. Has anyone used the Wolff, Wilson Combat or Miculek spring kits for the S&W Model 10 and do you they work well for you?

 

Yes and more, LOL. The S&W action depends on two springs; trigger spring inside the rebound slide and the hammer spring. (mainspring) Both bust be matched, this is a SAFETY factor. The trigger spring must be of proper tension so it returns the trigger forward FASTER than the hammer spring pushes the hammer. I will be direct here; some nitwits (not you, other people I um...know) chop off a coil or two off the rebound spring and call it good. If you want to shoot yourself in the butt someday, this is a good plan. Here's why;

 

The internal safeties on the S&W design DEPEND on proper weight springs to function correctly. There's a ledge on the rebound slide behind the trigger that contacts a matching ledge on the hammer. There's also a hammer block that also works off the rebound slide. Both of these DEPEND on that trigger spring (rebound spring) to power the slide forward BEFORE the hammer goes down.

 

Changing only the rebound spring is a bad plan.

 

Get the Wolff kit. Once installed there's a test to see if its done correctly. Unloaded. Cock the hammer, put a pencil down the bore resting on the breechface. Tap the trigger to release the hammer so the trigger springs forward. (I use a magic marker) If the spring tension is correct the pencil is going nowhere. If the trigger spring is too light the pencil will fly out of the barrel.

 

This is why those kits come with one hammer spring and two or three rebound (trigger) springs.

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Deuce Stevens, Thank you for posting this thread. This is all good information and again, I apologize for hi-jacking it in regards to my S&W disassembly / reassembly question. I did learn something interesting regarding springs that I dd not know before. Next time I will create my own thread if I have questions prompted by someone else's query.

 

Johnny Dollar, J-Bar, Henry T. Harrison and Driftwood Johnson - Thank You in particular for the info. Driftwood, that book and that rebound spring tool are exactly what I was looking for. I am terrible with videos. I have all the tools I need, just not that spring tool. I knew how to get the revolver apart, including the proper way to remove the side plate but I never ventured further as I didn't want to mess things up, hence my one signature line. J-Bar, I jumped in and re-joined the High Road because of your post. Thank you.

 

Best Regards,

Pat Riot

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