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Reloading for a Glock .45acp


Johnny Dollar

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I've never owned one but I remember reading that they are quirky to reload for. Something about lead bullets? I may be totally off....

The reason is my daughters boyfriend (could be more soon? But getting away from the point) has one in .45acp. We've been shooting together some and he asked if I could load him some. I've loaded for all my 1911's for years but only lead.

I'd love to do it for him but was wondering about any issues to look out for.

Long winded question ...:)

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Well, I have just started reloading for my Springfield 1911 A1. I have no knowledge about Glocks

but I would guess that the reloading part is pretty much the same.

What I have gleaned so far is:

 

1. The cartridge head spaces off the front of the cartridge rim.

so brass length is an issue. I believe the max is .898" overall

 

2. C.O.A.L. predicated on bullet profile is critical for proper loading and ejection.

 

3. There are lots of bullet profiles and weights out there.

Choose with caution and information.

 

My first attempt was to load an empty cartridge without powder or primer and the bullet

of choice. Then load it in the chamber and eject the cartridge, If all works well, you have

a starting point. Then marry that loading information with the powder charge and manual

dictates.

 

About all I can tell you.

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The factory wasn't happy with me for shooting lead bullets in a Glock .40 S&W. Said I should use only jacketed ammo. FWIW

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Hey Badger! Thanks! I've been loading for 1911's since around 1979 or so but never for a Glock. I think what I was reading was more the use of lead bullets in a Glock barrel. Something about the twist maybe?

However your advice is sound for sure!!

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glocks have polygonal rifling in their stock barrels.

 

Cruise through the below for more info of why one shouldn't use lead bullets in stock glock barrel.

 

However, there are plenty of drop in aftermarket barrels at very reasonable prices with traditional lands& grooves that allows lead bullets to be used.

 

http://www.blog.thegunsandgearstore.com/polygonal-rifling-in-glocks-why-it-matters/

 

I use Plated and regular jaceted bullets in mine,,, even with aftermarket barrel because I don't want the leading of the barrel due to higher velocities.,,,,

 

However, with the new polycoated bullets (treat as lead), I believe one could increase velocity over regular lead to avoid leading of barrel, I haven't got there yet to verify.

 

 

Food for thought.

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I've had a Glock G-21 (.45 ACP) since 1991. Glock recommends not shooting lead because of their Octagonal profile rifling instead of conventional rifling. I only shoot lead, but use an aftermarket Lone Wolf barrel which is about a $100 drop-in part. My G-21 has never had any feeding problems at all. Not fussy like a 1911. I shoot Wild Bunch with a 1911 and gauge every load for it; otherwise an occasional feeding problem.

 

The Glock G-21 is the most reliable auto I have. It's nice to be able to carry a .45 with 13 rounds in it.

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Hey Badger! Thanks! I've been loading for 1911's since around 1979 or so but never for a Glock. I think what I was reading was more the use of lead bullets in a Glock barrel. Something about the twist maybe?

However your advice is sound for sure!!

HAHA, Like I said Johnnie. Just enough savvy to be dangerous to myself.

 

Anyway, I will enjoy the other post and see what I can learn also.

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The factory wasn't happy with me for shooting lead bullets in a Glock .40 S&W. Said I should use only jacketed ammo. FWIW

 

They also tell you not to use reloaded ammunition.

 

Your point?

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Eyesa did say "FWIW'

 

And yes, most all gun companies put the disclaimer in of not using reloads for legality purposes.

 

I was wondering how Glock factory knew Eyesa was shooting lead bullets other than if he sent gun in and they noticed buildup of lead in barrel?

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Lots of discussion out there on this topic. The consensus I see is a Glock barrel's rifling is a potential problem with lead bullets. The other important piece is not to use reloads in a Glock barrel if the case hasn't been fully resized. The average die doesn't size the base of the case and there have been reports of ruptured cases in these barrels.

 

The solution appears to be replacing the Glock barrel with an aftermarket one and the potential problem(s) go away.

 

Disclaimer: Although I have a Glock, I've no personal experience with any of the above, just sharing some of what I've read. I'd suggest treading very carefully before using any reloads.

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On a few 1911 forums that are now allowing glocks in, the main reloading problem is with a round fired from a block. The entire cartridge is not fully supported

in the barrel, you get a bulge in the brass, NOT TO BE RELOADED.

However, one did make a special resize die that slowly pushes the bulge in. A weak spot. No one so far has recorded a hot load using that special die.

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Wow...... some-s-youse guys...All manufacturers routinely eschew the use of reloaded ammunition in their products. (small wonder with all the bozo's out there using loads they got from some other dude on the internet) Just because a manufacturer doesn't warranty their firearms for use with lead bullets (which Glock doesn't) doesn't mean they're being cautious; there's a reason.

 

Glock uses a rifling type called Polygonal. Unlike a conventionally rifled bore, the Glock rifling is somewhat unforgiving to lead fouling. Glock barrels, notably the 40SW and the 45 have weak points. Right at the bottom, on either side of the lug are two square cuts alongside it along the axis of the barrel. Yep, that is where the barrel splits, right along those lines. When the barrel comes apart there it drives the trigger down and out of the gun. Guess what's there? You're trigger finger. It sometimes also takes other parts with it. Another contributing factor is Glock chambers are a bit on the generous side and, especially in the case of the 40SW, quite unsupported at the feed ramp.

 

Yes you can shoot lead in glock pistols; shooting jacketed after without cleaning is a sure recipe for disaster but just lead, especially if that is HARD cast, you can do that successfully. To a point. When enough lead builds up in the barrel pressures can increase. Do that enough and kaboom. I've had enough people bring me blowed up guns over the years to NOT doubt the factory.

 

Do a google search for "glock kabooms". nuff said on that.

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I have Wolf barrels in all my Glocks. Problem solved.

100$ is cheap insurance. About 15 years ago I was at a training exercise where we were shooting commercially reloaded frangible ammo on steel plates. I was shooting my issue mod 22 Glock. Towards the end of a magazine a case ruptured. The bottom of the magazine blew out and the slide stop broke off, leaving a lasting impression on my right thumb. My hand felt like I had slapped a brick. No permanent injury. Since then I only shoot factory ammo out of the 22(I bought it when I retired) factory barrel. I also bought a Wolf barrel which handles lead, plated or jacketed. I know of people that shoot lead out of Glock barrels, but I think they are tempting fate. I do have a push through die from Redding for the 40 and I use it for all my 40 reloads. You can't be too careful you know.

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Eyesa did say "FWIW'

 

And yes, most all gun companies put the disclaimer in of not using reloads for legality purposes.

 

I was wondering how Glock factory knew Eyesa was shooting lead bullets other than if he sent gun in and they noticed buildup of lead in barrel?

 

They asked me and I admitted to using store bought lead reloads. Went to jacketed and the accuracy improved significantly.

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Slic Lee beat me to it.

No lead, at all in a factory Glock barrel.

Also the case is not supported at its base. Resizing takes more pressure. I can always tell an empty range pickup that was fired from a Glock. The firing pin imprint is more square than most others and the case will slightly bulge.

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My H&K P7 pistols all have the same or similar polygonal barrels, except they are all supported at the base. I have fired hard cast 16-18 BH no leading, the 40

caliber cartridge comes with a warning in reloading manuals about supported barrels, same with the 10mm.

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My H&K P7 pistols all have the same or similar polygonal barrels, except they are all supported at the base. I have fired hard cast 16-18 BH no leading, the 40

caliber cartridge comes with a warning in reloading manuals about supported barrels, same with the 10mm.

Does H&K manufacture say anything specific about the use of lead bullets in their polygonal barrels?

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My H&K P7 pistols all have the same or similar polygonal barrels, except they are all supported at the base. I have fired hard cast 16-18 BH no leading, the 40

caliber cartridge comes with a warning in reloading manuals about supported barrels, same with the 10mm.

that didn't take long. From H&K owners manual.

 

"CAUTION: HK firearms are designed to function with quality, manufactured brasscased ammunition. Use of steel or aluminum-cased cartridges is not recommended and could adversely affect safe and reliable functioning. Use of cast-lead bullets is also not recommended."

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Howdy,

Its too bad mfgs don't give some reasons Why and what will happen.

Lead has been used forever and if one part change allows it whats the big deel?

Buy a used gun, hardly ever do ya git a manual.

Best

CR

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that didn't take long. From H&K owners manual.

 

"CAUTION: HK firearms are designed to function with quality, manufactured brasscased ammunition. Use of steel or aluminum-cased cartridges is not recommended and could adversely affect safe and reliable functioning. Use of cast-lead bullets is also not recommended."

I'm interested to know if the problem with shooting cast in a polygonal rifled barrel is a guarantee for disaster or just a possibility? I have a 40 S&W and a 45 ACP H&K, both have polygonal rifling and I have only shot cast bullets in them for years.. After 200 rounds, my barrels look just as clean and shinny as when cleaned. The H&K caution that you posted stated "not recommended" I would have thought if it was that dangerous, the warning would say something such as "DO NOT SHOOT", or "DANGEROUS". I was once told by a rep from Springfield Armory that shooting reloaded ammo with cast bullets in one of their 45's was also not recommended. I'm not trying to argue, I just want to know if shooting cast in a polygonal firearm has just a slight possibility of causing a problem, or have I just been very lucky so far, and it's just a matter of time before I have a problem?

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I'm interested to know if the problem with shooting cast in a polygonal rifled barrel is a guarantee for disaster or just a possibility? I have a 40 S&W and a 45 ACP H&K, both have polygonal rifling and I have only shot cast bullets in them for years.. After 200 rounds, my barrels look just as clean and shinny as when cleaned. The H&K caution that you posted stated "not recommended" I would have thought if it was that dangerous, the warning would say something such as "DO NOT SHOOT", or "DANGEROUS". I was once told by a rep from Springfield Armory that shooting reloaded ammo with cast bullets in one of their 45's was also not recommended. I'm not trying to argue, I just want to know if shooting cast in a polygonal firearm has just a slight possibility of causing a problem, or have I just been very lucky so far, and it's just a matter of time before I have a problem?

I have no idea. Too many variables at work here,

 

There are after market barrels for H&K that have conventional; lands& groove rifling. That would be a safer option an solution.

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