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Uberti '73 problem?


Rance - SASS # 54090

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I have a Uberti '73 (357 cal. shoot 38's) with the Super Short Stroke kit, hinged lifter/lever springs, from Pioneer Gun Works..

also has stainless steel mag spring and 38 cal. shell sizing tube in magazine..

The rifle runs flawlessly.. feeds flawlessly... except?? :wacko:

 

Yesterday I tried reloads over the top into the carrier.. (man it was windy and cold in central Illinois yesterday)

I had to jiggle the lever a couple times to get the round to feed correctly..

I have removed the sharp edges on top of the carrier so the shell does not catch..

 

I notice the carrier drops down maybe 1/32nd of an inch below the receiver..

If I held that 1/32nd up (even with the bottom of the receiver) it would take the reload without the jiggling..

I'm using TC 110 grain lead.. loaded to OAL of 1.035"

I've been told that the Super Short Stroke kit has a

positive down feature (to make sure the carrier goes all the way down when cycling)

 

Reckon I'm askin'.. What should be tweaked?

I'm thinkin' a smite bit off the bottom of the lifter arm? but would like some feed back ..

 

Rance ;)

Thinkin' I shouldn't be thinkin' this early in the mornin' :)

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Some carriers are lower and some are higher.To get it to feed over the top really well when you put the round on the carrier and push it down it should be in line with the camber.I changed the carrier out 3 times before I found one that fit my main match rifle the way I wanted.One of the ones I took out fit my other rifle just wright.

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Some carriers are lower and some are higher.To get it to feed over the top really well when you put the round on the carrier and push it down it should be in line with the camber.I changed the carrier out 3 times before I found one that fit my main match rifle the way I wanted.One of the ones I took out fit my other rifle just wright.

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Most likely 1/32" weld spot added to the top of the end of the lifter arm would get it up to where the carrier is level with top of receiver. But, timing has to be carefully checked after you do that, to make sure you are not going to be lifting the carrier up so early that you run the cartridge rim into the cartridge tab on the bolt face as you cycle quickly.

 

Some folks also bend the carrier arm slightly to get it slightly higher. A little more of a trial and error method because it's harder to measure exactly how much you are affecting the positioning.

 

Carriers are designed to be "right" when at top of stroke they are flush at top, and at bottom of stroke they are flush with bottom of the carrier shaft. Although each gun is a little different, I use that as my initial guidelines.

 

A lifter arm is cheaper and easier to fit than swapping carriers or trying to add brass to the inside of a cylindrical hole in the the carrier block. :o:lol:

 

Good luck, GJ

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I thought that the carrier level was a function of timing, adjusted by fine tuning the lifter arm. Hummm?

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I thought that the carrier level was a function of timing, adjusted by fine tuning the lifter arm. Hummm?

 

Yep, the timing and height of lift of the carrier CAN be set by correctly filing the lifting side of the lifter arm boss, as Pioneer's own instructions point out. Sounds almost like this one was fitted hastily, and a slight bit too much metal was filed off and not rewelded and fitted again. Results in a slower rising carrier, and one that does not get quite to the top of the shaft.

 

Yep, "we're totally on the same page"

 

:) GJ

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I had the same problem with an 1866. I took the lifter out and hit it with a big hammer. Every time I tell a gunsmith that their eyes roll up in their head, they hiccup and pass out.

It has run perfectly since but as always YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY.

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GJ.. are you talking of taking a little bit of the arc out of the lifter arm to raise that carrier a smidgeon higher?

I was thinking it was dropping too low out of the bottom of the receiver that smidgeon 1/32nd?

It's the bottom stroke (lever open) that takes the carrier down that smidgeon too far..

 

If I'm thinkin' along your lines.. Changing the arc of the lifter arm would bring the carrier up higher and maybe eliminate going down too far...

Am I thinkin' right??

 

Thanks for your input

Rance

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GJ.. are you talking of taking a little bit of the arc out of the lifter arm to raise that carrier a smidgeon higher?

I was thinking it was dropping too low out of the bottom of the receiver that smidgeon 1/32nd?

It's the bottom stroke (lever open) that takes the carrier down that smidgeon too far..

 

If I'm thinkin' along your lines.. Changing the arc of the lifter arm would bring the carrier up higher and maybe eliminate going down too far...

Am I thinkin' right??

 

Thanks for your input

Rance

 

 

That would be called "bending the lifter arm". And yep, if you bend the arm so the tip is slightly hgher, the top of travel and the bottom of travel of the carrier will both rise the same amount.

 

Good luck, GJ

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That would be called "bending the lifter arm". And yep, if you bend the arm so the tip is slightly hgher, the top of travel and the bottom of travel of the carrier will both rise the same amount.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

Thanks GJ

 

Rance ;)

Thinkin' I can do this ​

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As a side note: I find it absolutely AMAZING how much wealth of knowledge and experience is shared by not only Garrison Joe, but by Cap, and all the others who frequent these cyber pages. I don't Post a lot but I do want those folks to know how much I, and I am sure all of us appreciate their input and advise.

NC

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Not a gunsmith or even very knowledgeable about many things. But I know Rance and with him it is normally operator error! :D

 

Hope to see you and Lacey soon,

Marlin

 

Geesh... Thanks Marlin.. :(

I can always count on you for "Operator Error". :)

 

Rance ;)

Thinkin' it'll be good to see you folks too.. :)

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I found reloading through the gate is much more positive of getting it 'right' the first time than trying to go over the top, and just as quick if not quicker,

wether you use the right or left hand to reload with.

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From your original post, it appears that your carrier "drops down 1/32" and can be pushed up from the bottom of the carrier to align properly.

 

If I read this right, then your problem is more likely a lifter spring that is too weak. Or the leg of the spring that bears on the lifter arm is not bearing in the right place. Such as happens sometimes with wire replacement springs since they are easily bent.

 

To check this, close the action, open the lever slightly beyond the slam down, depress the carrier slightly and see if it returns to the up position under spring tension. If it doesn't tighten up on the spring tension until it does and your problem should be solved.

 

If you have a wire spring, you can bend it a little. If you have the factory type spring, make sure the screw is tight, otherwise you may have to replace it, particularly if it has been lightened.

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From your original post, it appears that your carrier "drops down 1/32" and can be pushed up from the bottom of the carrier to align properly.

If I read this right, then your problem is more likely a lifter spring that is too weak. Or the leg of the spring that bears on the lifter arm is not bearing in the right place. Such as happens sometimes with wire replacement springs since they are easily bent.

To check this, close the action, open the lever slightly beyond the slam down, depress the carrier slightly and see if it returns to the up position under spring tension. If it doesn't tighten up on the spring tension until it does and your problem should be solved.

If you have a wire spring, you can bend it a little. If you have the factory type spring, make sure the screw is tight, otherwise you may have to replace it, particularly if it has been lightened.

h

 

For clarification.. I have the new Pioneer Gunworks hinged lifter and lever springs in the rifle..

They aren't even a season old.. Rifle runs perfect other than I'm trying to load over the top..

That 1/32nd. of an inch it drops down too far??

With the lever closed tightly I can push the carrier up even with the bottom of the receiver..

 

Rance..

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Since you said in your original post that holding the carrier up would allow feeding without having to jiggle, it would appear that if the lifter arm spring held the carrier up all the way like it's supposed to, the problem would be solved.

 

I'd try putting the stock lifter arm spring back in and see if it works with that. If it does, you could probably tweet the PGW spring to get more tension or to change the bearing point on the lifter arm. In any event you want the spring to hold the carrier all the way to the top.

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Before you make any modifications:

 

1) Check to see if the screws holding the springs have come loose. (on the underside of the action, right near the shell carrier.)

 

2) Try a shorter cartridge for from-the-top loading.

 

On my 73, if I use a .45 Colt cartridge for the top-load, it tends to hang up unless I get it exactly right. If I use a .45 Schofield (shorter case) , it usually works smoothly. Note, the 73 will not reliably feed short cases out of the magazine, but should easily eject it after firing.

 

I suspect a .38 case might feed from the top of your rifle more easily.

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Before you make any modifications:

 

1) Check to see if the screws holding the springs have come loose. (on the underside of the action, right near the shell carrier.)

 

2) Try a shorter cartridge for from-the-top loading.

 

On my 73, if I use a .45 Colt cartridge for the top-load, it tends to hang up unless I get it exactly right. If I use a .45 Schofield (shorter case) , it usually works smoothly. Note, the 73 will not reliably feed short cases out of the magazine, but should easily eject it after firing.

 

I suspect a .38 case might feed from the top of your rifle more easily.

j

 

Screws are tight.. Have never been loose..

My original post states.. "I shoot 38's"

But.. Thanks for your input..

 

Rance. ;)

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