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Wood Finish?


Bama Red

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My wife got a really nice unfinished kitxhen island for herself for Christmas. Not sure what the wood is and the place she got it from doesn't have a clue. There is almost no visible grain, except for a few dark spots and streaks. I'm thinking hickory or maple, but I don't think the species is all that important for my purposes.

She wants a clear finish with little or no stain. So...how about a tung oil, mineral oil or a "Danish oil" finish? Advantages/disadvantages of each?

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Pard, as I was reading, I already had it in my mind to suggest tung oil or Danish oil. Great minds think alike! The only disadvantage I know if is the propensity some tung oil has to running. It is very *VERY* thin and challenging to get a good smooth finish, although I still don't hesitate to use it. I've never had that problem with Danish.

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Food gonna be on it ---- Butcher Block/Mineral Oil ---- Reapply at least every year ---- Apply lots & let set in really soak it good then wipe off excess.

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Tung oil has some odor that lingers for a while; doesn't bother me on a gun stock but it might on a large furniture piece. Don't have any experience with Danish oil. Either should be beautiful to look at though.

 

Above concerns about sanitation are valid. I would use separate cutting boards for both sanitation and appearance.

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Folks, should have made this clear - this will be used in the dining room as a cookbook bookcase since there is no room in our toy kitchen for an island.

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Since you intend to use it as a book shelf, I'd suggest you skip ALL the OILS which, in all actuality may never dry completely. Bust suggestion is

three coats of a good clear polyurethane. Clear Poly will yellow a bit and give more of a warm glow. My other choice would be a clear waterbase

acrylic. The acrylic won't tend to yellow. They will all initially "raise the grain" and require a light sanding between coats. DO NOT use steel wool.

 

Coffinmaker

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My wife got a really nice unfinished kitxhen island for herself for Christmas. Not sure what the wood is and the place she got it from doesn't have a clue. There is almost no visible grain, except for a few dark spots and streaks. I'm thinking hickory or maple, but I don't think the species is all that important for my purposes.

She wants a clear finish with little or no stain. So...how about a tung oil, mineral oil or a "Danish oil" finish? Advantages/disadvantages of each?

you will have to constantly reply all of those.....If you want a shinny finish that seals and stays, then coat it in lacquer. Its a clear coat that seals the wood and gives a shine, similar to clear coat on a cars finish.

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But if your preparing food on the surface than only use mineral oil and re-apply as needed. The mineral oil is safe for food purposes and kills bacteria by smothering it and depriving it of oxygen. In between coating it you should clean weekly w/ white vinegar to disinfect and clean the surface, then re-apply the mineral oil(This is how I treat my cutting board at my house) My reloading bench however is lacquer coated!

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There are many finishes that will suit your needs however some are not the easiest to apply.

Many of the "natural finishes" will allow the beauty of the wood to shine through and still be safe for use around food should your reasons for the unit change.

 

I would highly recommend 1/3 clear shellac, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, and 1/3 denatured alcohol. (Buy at local big box store) You can apply with a paper towel or foam brush.

The finish drys hard and fast and is safe for use around food. 3 to 4 coats applied 1/2 hour apart at room temperature will give you a lasting hard and renewable finish.

If the the unit is reconfigured for use in the kitchen, then mineral oil can be applied to this finish to rejuvenate it on a regular basis.

If not used for food the surface can be brought back to life with Johnson's paste wax on occasion.

 

Please do not use poly or lacquer if the unit will be around food.

 

There is a two part epoxy resin finish available for bar tops that makes a beautiful finish but it is difficult to apply to anything except a flat horizontal surface as it take 24 hours to dry to the touch. Refinishing must be done with the same product.

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