Hammered Double Problem

[Bama Red]

The break open lever on my hammered double will not swing back to center when the action is closed, but stays pushed over to the right side in the "open" position. I haven't really torn it apart since I'd like to at least have a general idea of what's wrong. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem might be?

[Warden Callaway]

At 3:46 am (my time), maybe it's asleep?

[Possum Skinner, SASS#60697]

What make?

[Slowhand Bob, 24229]

I have heard that this happens normally BUT slowly with wear, it sounds like you are describing something different. Did this happen suddenly, as if something might have broken?

[Sedalia Dave]

Examine the locking mechanism closely for a small piece of lead splatter wedged in it.

 

It would also help to know which brand.model of SG you have

[John Boy]

Weak or dirty spring in the action

[Cliff Hanger #3720LR]

IF the shotgun closed completely and then started not closing completely, check for the locking lugs.

I only shoot hammered doubles (Rossi) and when the shotgun does not seem to lock correctly, (lever does not center up), I'll find lead on one of the lugs.

I could not see it but when I scraped across the top of the lugs I could peel up the lead that kept the lock from closing all the way.

 

After the first time this happened, I check the lugs when I clean my shotgun.

 

Even had this happen during a plainsman match with my H&R single shot that opens like a double shotgun.

[Barkeep Casey]

Bama shoots a TTN. It seems to me there is a good chance that debris is lodged in there.

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

More common possibilities:

* Broken or slipped opening lever return spring (on TTN, this is a wire torsion sping leaf spring, with legs that make a V shape, and two tiny pointed ends that fit into small divots in the frame and the lever. This spring is easily broken, but LongHunter carries an excellent torsion-wire replacement spring, which I believe it is made by SlikSprings)

* Piece of shot or crud buildup in the action locking bars near the bottom of the action (the TTN has a bottom plate that can be removed pretty easily to let you clean that area), then lube the locking bar ways with some compatible grease. I use Mobil-1 wheel bearing grease.

* One of the two under-barrel locking lugs has taken a hit (perhaps barrels dropped when out of gun) and one of the locking bar sticks at "full lock up" and can't easily snap out of the lug opening as it needs to, to allow the opening lever to return to center.

 

 

More rare:

* Opening lever bent or catching on the stock or upper tang

* Opening lever screw is not tight

* The action opening "toggle" at the bottom of the spindle has slipped or jammed.

* Wood in stock has swollen or broken off a piece that is binding the opening lever spindle and connected parts.

* Right hammer not correctly installed on side plate.

 

Lots of wear on the locking lugs and locking bars causes the lever to return to the left of center, not stay open on the right side of center.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

PS -

Fixed the spring type description, per help from NKJ's post below...

[Nate Kiowa Jones #6765]

More common possibilities:

* Broken or slipped opening lever return spring (on TTN, this is a wire torsion sping with legs that make a V shape, and two tiny bent ends that fit into small divots in the frame and the lever - easily broken, but LongHunter carries an excellent replacement, which I believe it is made by SlikSprings)

* Piece of shot or crud buildup in the action locking bars near the bottom of the action (the TTN has a bottom plate that can be removed pretty easily to let you clean that area), then lube the locking bar ways with some compatible grease. I use Mobil-1 wheel bearing grease.

* One of the two under-barrel locking lugs has taken a hit (perhaps barrels dropped when out of gun) and the locking bar sticks at "full lock up" and can't easily snap out of the lug opening as it needs to, to allow the opening lever to return to center.

 

 

More rare:

* Opening lever bent or catching on the stock or upper tang

* Opening lever screw is not tight

* The action opening "toggle" at the bottom of the spindle has slipped or jammed.

* Wood in stock has swollen or broken off a piece that is binding the opening lever spindle and connected parts.

* Right hammer not correctly installed on side plate.

 

Lots of wear on the locking lugs and locking bars causes the lever to return to the left of center, not stay open on the right side of center.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

I beg to differ. The Original and the TTN version comes with a true V spring and they are notorious for breaking. Thus, the reason for the aftermarket wire versions.

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

My personal "Knee Jerk" WAG (Wild A$$ GUESS) is grunge. Lead fragments, Carbon Build-up, Gummy Grease. Take it apart and clean thoroughly and

while you have it apart, inspect for damage.

 

Coffinmaker

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

 

I beg to differ. The Original and the TTN version comes with a true V spring and they are notorious for breaking. Thus, the reason for the aftermarket wire versions.

NKJ -

Yep, you are right. I have the wire torsion spring in all mine (and just assumed most other folks do, too). BECAUSE that original leaf spring breaks so easily. So, I would propose the OP get a new wire type lever spring, before he even takes the gun apart to see if there is a problem with the spring, unless he knows he already has a good wire spring in there! If he finds a broken leaf spring, he can replace it. If he finds an unbroken leaf spring (which makes for a heavy lever opening effort), he can replace it. Bingo, at least one problem will be fixed.

 

Thanks for the catch! GJ

[Bama Red]

I have heard that this happens normally BUT slowly with wear, it sounds like you are describing something different. Did this happen suddenly, as if something might have broken?

 

Yes, it was sudden - happened after the first two shotgun knock downs on the first stage. When I reloaded for the last two knockdowns, the lever would not come back to center.

 

IF the shotgun closed completely and then started not closing completely, check for the locking lugs.

I only shoot hammered doubles (Rossi) and when the shotgun does not seem to lock correctly, (lever does not center up), I'll find lead on one of the lugs.

I could not see it but when I scraped across the top of the lugs I could peel up the lead that kept the lock from closing all the way.

 

After the first time this happened, I check the lugs when I clean my shotgun.

 

Even had this happen during a plainsman match with my H&R single shot that opens like a double shotgun.

The action closes completely, the lever just stays in the "open" position instead of coming back to center.

 

 

 

*******UPDATE*******

I took the shotgun out of the truck yesterday evening to work on since there was no World Series game and no football, and lo and behold, when I closed the action, the lever swung back almost to center. Gonna have to put a shell with primer only in there tomorrow and see if'n she'll fire! Then I'll take her down for a through cleaning, because by now, I'm convinced it's some kind of crud/junk messing up the action.

[Muleshoe Bill SASS #67022]

DEVIL OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Blackey Cole]

Bama red if it isn't debris then it might be a spring broken. I have a TTN from Johnny meadows that's a dream to shoot. If you call call him and make arrangements to send it to him and tell him I sent you. I know your tight because of the medical bills if you need help let me know maybe I can cover the repairs and get it race ready for what you have done for me.

[Bama Red]

Blackey, I can't thank you enough for the offer, but I can't possibly accept. I'm gonna give her a good cleaning - inside and out and see ifn that doesn't do the trick.

[Blackey Cole]

If it doesn't send it to Johnny meadows let me know and I'll contact him with the payment info. You had to pay for three tries and beating the infection I don't I'm in the va system and they cover everything