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Question about a lever lock plug for a 73


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Howdy Pards. While at the Western States Regional last week, I noticed a shooter with a Uberti 73 that had the lever lock removed on it. In place of the twist lock thingy, there was a metal blued plug installed that took its place. It looked like a nice way of plugging that hole if you took the lock out. Never got a chance to ask him were he got it. Anyone know were I might get one of those plugs? Thanks..

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I've Always grind mine down and polish them. I leave mine shinny silver. Others blue them.

It only takes a few minutes to do it. Looks way better than the hole.

Regards,

Ringer

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Howdy Pards. While at the Western States Regional last week, I noticed a shooter with a Uberti 73 that had the lever lock removed on it. In place of the twist lock thingy, there was a metal blued plug installed that took its place. It looked like a nice way of plugging that hole if you took the lock out. Never got a chance to ask him were he got it. Anyone know were I might get one of those plugs? Thanks..

 

Very good chance it was one I did for Arizona shooters -- several of my custom-done rifles were there and I frequently do this for customers --- not a replacement plug.

Anyway, ain't no big deal, just grind OEM part off flat, turn to prepare metal, refinish with "warm blue" and reinstall. :) Helps eliminate one possible "ah shet"! from happening

P.S. The Arizona folks did real well with (I think three first-in-category and a number of seconds) :) But, congrats to all the shooters that participated in this fine match.

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Well grind away it is! I didn't even think of doing that. It will have to be a cold blue after I get the finished surface on it. Thanks for the info.

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Guest Maker-Wright

Here's my fix...

 

Just replace the spring plate with a piece of 1/8" aluminum, drilled and grooved to accept the lever hook and retaining pin. Groove is cut shallow enough that the pin must be driven in, thereby keeping the lever hook tight.

 

The benefits are;

 

- No need to cut, grind, polish or re-blue any original parts.

 

- The lever hook is kept intact, and looks original, but is captured in the rearward/unlocked position. When the stock is in place, there's no way for the lever hook to spin, no way for the pin to come out, so there's no way for the parts to fall out and get lost (yes, it happens).

 

- The lever hook function can be returned to original by just swapping the aluminum block out with the spring plate.

 

Instead of cutting the block to the width of the tang, look at the tang groove in the bottom of your stock. There should be a narrower, secondary groove that accommodates the mainspring. Cutting the width of the aluminum block to fit into the narrower/mainspring groove (block size approx. .390" x .850") should eliminate the need to do any fitting to the butt stock.

 

DSC02761_zpsvlw1zqwo.jpg

 

Maker

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Seriously. This is a fine solution in search of a problem!!

Yep... in 27 years of using a '73, ain't ever had the lever lock move by itself.

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Guest Maker-Wright

Yep... in 27 years of using a '73, ain't ever had the lever lock move by itself.

 

I just like knowing that there's no way the hook can turn, whether inadvertently.... or by orneriness. And, I like knowing that there's no way the hook can get lost by the spring losing tension and the pin drifting out (I've seen folks lose them during shoots, and I've found them laying on the range during walk-throughs).

 

Maker

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Usta shoot with a couple of really fun partners. Sneak up and turn yer lever lock. Always on a "rifle first" stage so you could restart. Lordy it's fun to watch.

However, in a lot more years playing this game than I like to admit to (gettin old), never saw a lever lock turn itself. Never saw the retaining spring go away. Only problem I ever saw, was when someone failed "reassemble rifle" after cleaning. Never figured out what they disassembled the lever lock in the first place.

 

Oh wait ...... there can be interference between the lock and the lever end on a Deluxe Pistol Grip '73. After you round-over the side that interferes with the lever, never have to touch it again.

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Seriously. This is a fine solution in search of a problem!!

Yes seriously. Every shooter is different. I bump turn mine every match. Not to the point were it gets in the way but its one more thing I keep an eye on. For me the lock is useless. Useless things I part from.

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Here's my fix...

 

Just replace the spring plate with a piece of 1/8" aluminum, drilled and grooved to accept the lever hook and retaining pin. Groove is cut shallow enough that the pin must be driven in, thereby keeping the lever hook tight.

 

The benefits are;

 

- No need to cut, grind, polish or re-blue any original parts.

 

- The lever hook is kept intact, and looks original, but is captured in the rearward/unlocked position. When the stock is in place, there's no way for the lever hook to spin, no way for the pin to come out, so there's no way for the parts to fall out and get lost (yes, it happens).

 

- The lever hook function can be returned to original by just swapping the aluminum block out with the spring plate.

 

Instead of cutting the block to the width of the tang, look at the tang groove in the bottom of your stock. There should be a narrower, secondary groove that accommodates the mainspring. Cutting the width of the aluminum block to fit into the narrower/mainspring groove (block size approx. .390" x .850") should eliminate the need to do any fitting to the butt stock.

 

DSC02761_zpsvlw1zqwo.jpg

 

Maker

That's a great idea to lock it down. Thanks!

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