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Cap & Ball Revolvers: Cap Guard/Post


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Howdy Fellow Cap and Ballers,

 

Can anybody share with me the link, that has Do It Yourself instructions regarding installation of the little post that gets drilled into the frame, and fills the hammer notch, to help prevent cap jams?

 

I thought I could good "Utah sumptin' sumptin' cap guard", but my Google Fu isn't working well today. :wacko:

 

Thanks.

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http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/colt_cap_and_ball.pdf

 

I've done several and even put the groove in with a mill so it is a very precise fit around the pin as opposed to using a Dremel. Some people have had great luck with this. Personally, it hasn't work well for me.

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http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/colt_cap_and_ball.pdf

 

I've done several and even put the groove in with a mill so it is a very precise fit around the pin as opposed to using a Dremel. Some people have had great luck with this. Personally, it hasn't work well for me.

 

Thanks!!

 

I wanted to review this, and see if it's something I feel comfortable doing myself, before refilling my hammer notches. When using 35g of black with the slix shot nipples, I had no problems until I accidentally pulled out the JB weld in the notch while wiping down between stages, then all hell broke loose.

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I have some "professionally" done that do not work well for me.

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I have not shot more than 150 rounds in my Uberti 1858s and have never had a cap jam.At our bi-monthly I shoot one or two stages with my 58s.When I get my 4 cylinders done I will shoot all 6 stages.Now I shot one stage and let anyone that wants to shoot cap and ball shoot them.I just have 6 cylinders loaded when I get there.I load at home.It takes me way to long to load to load at the range.

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Pit Bull, wait till you shoot some 1860's, :) then you'll see what cap jamming is all about!

 

I had jams a lot with my 1860s where the cap would pull off and go down into the works..... I did two easy things and haven't really had a jam since. Changed to Slix Shot nipples and filled in the slot on the hammer with JB Weld. Now the caps don't get pulled off.

 

I also am a devote follower of all Pettifogger's open top tuning articles. They are the best!! Thanks for those Pettifogger!

 

-JD

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I have some "professionally" done that do not work well for me.

 

And I have some that work great. I guess success depends on a variety of factors including caliber, load, nipples and manufacture.

 

Same is true with nipples. I have a pair of Uberti '61 Navies that Slix Shot nipples do not work on, and a pair of 1860 Armies they work great on.

 

Fingers (Show Me MO smoke) McGee

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Shoot ROAs and all you need to do is install five tresso nipples on each cylinder. Shot frontiersman for many years before switching to my current category. I started with a worn out navy 36 cal and a Sherriff model army I won at WR that year. Shot maybe one or two monthlies before getting a second road from cabelas in phx. Once I got it and the tresso nipples I was hooked. It just became a burden charging during a stage and if I could get four to six cylinders per gun I would go back to them once in a while but having fun in cc and it isn't half as much work to shoot.

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I know this does not answer the orriginal question but it did work for me. http://leesgunsmithing.com/ I have two pair of these, they are jewels and I could never have 'home gunsmithed' anything that was as nice as these. I just wish I could afford to get my new pair of short barl '61Navies done by them, never know when a pair of .36s might come in handy.

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