Coyote Cap, SASS Life #14184 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 About 40 years ago, as a crew chief on F-4 Phantoms with the 366 TFW, "Gunfighters" in Da Nang, Viet Nam, we were shipped a case of lubricating oil in olive drab one quart cans, with the military designation of MIL-L-7808. It smelled REALLY good and was outstanding in it's job of lubricating our J-79 jet engines, and anything else we wanted to keep from rusting or collecting dirt and dust. That oil was so good, I tried to find where I could buy some for my own use - - - nope, not available for civilian use !! Wow - - - I couldn't even buy any !!! So, I did some researching and when I retired in 1979, I contacted the Wis. phone number I was given to see if I could get some. The product had just been released to civilians as "CLENZOIL". Needless to say, I bought a case from them and have been using it on all the guns I worked on all these years. I am just now, running out of my second case supply, so I did some more checking to buy some. The company was going through reorganizing, due to the family that owned "Clenzoil" selling out to a conglomerate, who moved the company to Tampa. If you think your gun oil is the best there is - - - read up on this product - - - www.clenzoil.com Then you will know why I just ordered another case ! "Cap" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Eezox and here's one reason ... http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=5457 The other 2 are: it cleans hard smokeless & BP foul and the lubrication is excellent drying to a thin film that doesn't collect dirt I've used Clenzoil. It is a good product but doesn't stack up to Eezox PS: I'm on quart number 5 now of Eezox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Widder, SASS #59054 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I been using Strike Hold. I haven't tried Clenzoil or Eezox so I can't really compare. But I do like Strike Hold. ..........Widder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rye Miles #13621 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Rem Oil, Break Free CLP, Hoppes Oil, anything I can get cheap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bill Burt Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 If I don't use CLP on my '73 it voids the lifetime warranty, so CLP it is. On most everything else I use Rem Oil or Hoppes, or Eezox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Korupt Karl Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I clean with brake cleaner, air dry wwith compressor, Rem oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Ron Wayne Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Hoppes #9 been using it for 45 years. Its never faild me , So why change it ? For black powder hot water and dish soap , Then I use Moose milk . Its always worked also :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J. Frank Norfleet Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Kroil, "the oil that creeps." I buy it by the gallon from Brownells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chili Ron Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Howdy, Ive had good luck with clp. I don't believe I want to buy cases of anything but Coors. And Mobil - 1. But if you pards want to tell me where to git some samples I will supply the dirty gunz. Best CR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Maker-Wright Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 - For my Vaqueros and '97 action it's Break-Free CLP; Because it's a migrating/self replenishing lube that will suspend and carry contaminants away from wear areas where it can be wiped away and then reapplied without disassembly. Might not be the best stand alone lube, or rust preventative, or cleaner. But for what I need it does all 3 exceedingly well. And it's the only liquid I've found that actually will keep carbon soft in between shoots (like on cylinder faces and '73 carriers) so it can easily be wiped away without brushing or soaking. - For my '73 internals (because the action is fairly well sealed, I only re-lube the links/pins about once every 30+ shoots); it's Super Lube Synthetic NGLI Grade #2 Grease; Because it's cheaper than Mobil 1 Grease, non-migrating, highly lubricious, stays right where it's needed for extended periods, especially on higher-pressure points like lever & lifter spring cams, won't dry out or separate. It's also clear, so it's easy to see where/when it's become contaminated. I put a light coat of CLP on the front 1/2" of the interior of the carrier and bolt/bolt face so the carbon will wipe off easily in between shoots, otherwise the carrier is kept dry. - I use Eezox only on my '97 mag. tube and slide, as well as my '73 firing pin extension and hammer strike face; because it will provide lubricity when dry, so it doesn't hold onto the dirt that those exposed components are likely to always be subjected to (Please see post 23 on this thread). Maker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleepy Floyd Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Not to HiJack, Hey, Cap Welcome Home. I was at DaNang with the 366 AMS 69 to 70. S. Floyd I use Rem oil or Tetra. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Wind-Walker #36748 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Hey Marty...........how the heck are ya...........??? Well Marty.............now that you asked............ I will put Prolix up against your Clenzoil ........... Check it out......... actual fire test with guns.......... you can see the results...... Prolixlubricant.com We use it heavily in Practical Pistol - especially the "Tactical Performance Center" training we do at our range.......where we run up to 1,000 rds to 2,000 rds in a day........... and I use it on my cowboy guns too...... Marty - check it out and let me know what you think.......... miss ya brother...........Wolf USAF 67/71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boggus Deal #64218 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Lucas Oil Products for more than one reason.Their products work great as lubrication is not a sideline to them like a lot of companies. Also, the owner and founder is a big supporter of the firearms industry as well as hunting through the Protect the Harvest organization. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Eezox and here's one reason ... http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=5457 The other 2 are: it cleans hard smokeless & BP foul and the lubrication is excellent drying to a thin film that doesn't collect dirt I've used Clenzoil. It is a good product but doesn't stack up to Eezox PS: I'm on quart number 5 now of Eezox This X2! Cap-Give Eezox a try. You could even become a dealer for them. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chili Ron Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Howdy, I hope that aint th e same lucas as the outfit that made electronics for brit cars. That was Lucas prince of darkness..... Best CR still usin clp......so far.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 For Black Powder arms: Just hot water, air blast dry, and Balistol - works great - never any issues.... Foe smokeless stuff: Hoppes, and lube with Rem Oil (AR15 I now use CLP Breakfree) GG ~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado Coffinmaker Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I've always been a fan of Break Free CLP for smokeless applications. After I retired, I was bitten by the BP bug. BP doesn't play well with petroleum base lubes so I went with Mobil 1 grease and oil. After cleaning, a little smear of grease in the high pressure points and a couple drops of oil on the moving surfaces does the job. Coffinmaker PS: A grease gun tube of grease and a quart of oil lasts a Loooooooong time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marauder SASS #13056 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I always enjoy reading about lubes and grease. Remember that for any stress areas, grease is generally superior to oil, since out is thin and more easily displaced. Oil works best where it can be readily replenished. I haven't tried some of those mentioned but have tried a LOT. Currently for grease, I generally use Mobil 1 as it works pretty well and holds up well. I'm not sure it has the best lubricity but it is quite good. I liked Eezox for fighting rust, but that has now been superceded. I was amazed to see some posts on Frog Lube. I had read some recommending it but had not seen it tested. (I wish I had the link). They showed that it had far superior lubricity. And better resistance to rust than Eezox. So I bought some in a tub. I was really glad to see that even in the recent rainy matches that when I came home by guns had no rust. Not even the 97 Mag tube that is so very sensitive to rust! And it really reduced friction as well. But for the front and back of my revolver cylinders where it rubs on the frame, I'm still using Mobil 1 since it helps absorb shock much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Dude, SASS # 51223 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 For my Cap Guns, I just started using Frog Lube. This was suggested by "Big Iron Buster". I was using Mobil 1 Grease, not any more. With my Colts and smokeless loads I use Rem-oil on the base pin and internals, Mobil 1 on the ratchet and the front & rear of the Cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boggus Deal #64218 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Howdy, I hope that aint th e same lucas as the outfit that made electronics for brit cars. That was Lucas prince of darkness..... Best CR still usin clp......so far.... Nope! I have had experience with that Lucas, as well, with my 1980 Range Rover. Lucas Oil is like night and day, compared to Lucas Electric, pun intended..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-BAR #18287 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Under unusual circumstances, I realized I was out of gun lube when it came time to reassemble some guns after cleaning. Automatic transmission fluid worked fine. Not gonna say it's the best, but it's cheap and universally available and very slippery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megeddo Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I use the same oil that I use in my cars:In the past I used Remoil but I changed a couple of years ago and have had no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Maker-Wright Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Regarding Eezox... Eezox has merits, but it also has some serious limitations that aren't readily apparent by reading the label; Eezox is not intended to be dripped or sprayed into assembled firearms or firearms assemblies. Doing so will not allow the product to dry properly, and it may become "sticky". In order to dry properly, Eezox must be applied very sparingly, directly to the components, with the treated surfaces left to dry in the open air. It's not a migrating/replenishing-type lubricant, nor is it said to be a permanent lubricant. In other words, unless you're in the habit of taking your firearms completely apart to reapply lube to the internal components, this probably isn't the best lube for you.Some folks say they "love the smell" of Eezox. I VERY STRONGLY SUGGEST that folks check out the Eezox MSDS; http://www.eezox.info/msds.html, and then do a bit of research on the effects of inhaling "Trichloroethylene" (one of the ingredients in Eezox, characterized by a sweet smell); http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trichloroethylene#Physiological_effects It's true that gun solvents and oils can be pretty unhealthy, but Trichloroethylene can be particularly nasty. In my experience, regular Hoppes #9 or Break-Free CLP have been far more effective than Eezox when it comes to removing heavy powder fouling. Even when pre-treated with Eezox, surfaces which were exposed to heavy blowback were very difficult to clean with Eezox. Whereas the same surfaces coated with a film of Break-Free CLP before firing tended to be much easier to clean. The carbon stayed softer, suspended, and was therefore far easier to remove.It's tough to relate just exactly how EXTREMELY thin subsequent applications of Eezox must be in order to dry properly. Condensation forms on a glass pane in the winter time if you breathe on it, right? If the thickness of that condensation were Eezox, it'd probably be too thick to dry, even when left overnight, in low humidity, and at room temperature. I believe most folks who use Eezox "think" it's dry because it is applied so sparingly, and so little is left on the surface. But if you were to rub some type of fine powder on that surface (such as cinnamon, which is basically wood dust) the powder will often stick, clump, and darken a bit, indicating that it is drawing some moisture from the surface.Eezox is no "secret", it's been around since 1984. And, the concept of using dry lube on firearms is certainly not new either. I believe that if Eezox was as effective as the manufacturer claims it to be, if there were no health concerns (Trichloroethylene), and if it really were that easy to properly/regularly use, then Eezox would've gained greater market share over the past 30+ years, and larger, gun-related retailers like Brownells, Midway*, Cheaper-Than-Dirt, etc. would carry it... but they don't.I still use Eezox for a few applications. I believe it is a good anti-corrosion product, and a good dry lube when the treated components are individually WIPED COMPLETELY DRY. But I absolutely will not apply it indoors, I won't apply it to any surface that is subjected to hot and heavy carbon residue (learned that the hard way... never again), or when I need a migrating-replenishing type lube in between tear-downs (I'll use Break-Free CLP), or when I need a self-replenishing, higher-pressure type lube for high-friction spots (I'll use Super-Lube Synthetic Grease).*Midway did carry Eezox at one time... they've since discontinued it. Maker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coyote Cap, SASS Life #14184 Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 You guys need to look up the properties associated with the use of Clenzoil. My understanding is that Clenzoil is not a petroleum based lubricant and it is used for everything, including leather (Galco endorsement) and gunstocks. Name me another product that works this good on leather and wood too? Check it out at www.clenzoil.com 1-800-oil it up (no, I'm NOT a dealer) - - - just saying what I feel is the best for SASS guns ! "Cap" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 You guys need to look up the properties associated with the use of Clenzoil. My understanding is that Clenzoil is not a petroleum based lubricant and it is used for everything, including leather (Galco endorsement) and gunstocks. Name me another product that works this good on leather and wood too? Check it out at www.clenzoil.com 1-800-oil it up (no, I'm NOT a dealer) - - - just saying what I feel is the best for SASS guns ! "Cap" Hmm - I'll have to try it on my AR - thanks... http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/232258_Clenzoil.html GG ~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowhand Bob, 24229 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 A few years ago I had a catastrophic breakdown in the gun rooms humidity controls while away for a couple of weeks, my fault for being half @$$ BUT! Damage ranged from major to none at all and it followed a clear line that was based on cleaning and lubricant products used. I no longer use Ballistol for anything but a BP wash as the guns protected by it were not protected at all and when the last of it is gone it will not be replaced..... Those guns that were protected by Breakfree CLP were left untouched and I must admit that it makes a mighty fine lubricant and protection or real BP, substitutes and smokerless. Simple Green also works as good as anything I have tried for cleaning all of my guns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jefro, SASS#69420 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Howdy, my fav lube is Gun Butter....(no Not bore butter ). Works just as well with BP as it does in my 1911. http://www.gunbutter.com/ My fav overall gun care product is Bull Frog. Great for everyday use or long time storage. I live in a harsh coastal climate....salt marsh right up to the back yard. Been using Bull Frog products for years with great result...guns, fishing gear, boats, boat electroincs, backhoes, tool/tackle box....etc...etc. http://www.bull-frog.com/products/ Bull Frog Rusthunter Firearm Cleaner for everyday use. For long term storage (or everyday) Bull Frog Lubricant with Rust Blocker........In the safe a Bull Frog Emitter Shield, change once a year. Bull Frog Emitter Strips for tool and tackle boxes, no more rusty hooks......change once a year, but they last longer Read all about it, Good Luck http://www.bull-frog.com/publications/articles.php Jefro Relax-Enjoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Wind-Walker #36748 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Here is the info on Prolix........I actually have tested it and it does repel crud from shooting.......you can see the difference............. and is good from -80 to + 400...... no gumming....... my AR's, Springfields 40's & 9s, Sig, Rugers, Uberti's, Winchesters.........all love it.........good for wood to......... I even use if on my Lee's, Star's, Phelps and Dillion 1050's .......... check it out.........Wolf CLEANS: PrOlix is a penetrating solvent that has been developed over many years, used in industry, and rated the safest, most effective agent. Based on citrus technology (it has a pleasant, mild smell in contrast to petroleum based solvents), it is biodegradable and ozone-safe. We took the results of field testing and modified the solvent for firearm usage. The end result was improved effectiveness, while remaining non-abrasive and non-acidic. In short, it won't remove or harm your metal or wood finishes. We do recommend that you test on plastics, in a small area (on the back side). If no adverse action is noticed, you may continue with complete confidence. Another benefit of using PrOlix is that total disassembly is not required. The solvent seeks out dirt, oils, grime, etc. (even in small and impossible areas) and floats it away. The chemical action during cleaning developes the DRY lubricant and it is drawn into the pores of the material, creating a skin of protection. LUBRICATES: PrOlix is a unique lubricant and the result of modern technology. It is not affected by adverse conditions of extreme hot and cold (-80°F to over 460°F). It remains dry to the touch. PrOlix appears thin, but testing has proven that the retained optimum amount of necessary lubricant is provided. It will not wipe off during firing or flash burn. It will not build up, become gummy or discolor (competing petroleum products turn yellow or brown).PrOlix will enhance and protect any metal or finish it is applied to. The solvent is blue in color but comes out clear on a patch. The PrOlix protective skin (film) renews itself each time it is used, and prevents contaminates from adhering or attaching, making follow-up cleaning easier. Penetration is made possible by its thin formulation (8.2 cps). Then by the chemical action, it turns into a heavier (68cST 40°C) DRY, enduring and long lasting protective coating. PrOlix was even rated next to the winner of a grease test! PRESERVES: PrOlix has been proven to work in the freezing conditions of Alaska as well as the dusty wet Texas flat lands and the damp humid jungles of South America. PrOlix preserves and protects due to its thorough cleaning and complete surface coverage. PrOlix will not remove metal defects. PrOlix is a must for all blued, nickel, and stainless steel finishes. PrOlix is armor-tough yet works equally well on precision guns, air guns or the sophisticated law enforcement and military arms. PrOlix is #1 in Total Gun Care. You can DEPEND on PrOlix...OR YOUR MONEY BACK. Guaranteed. PrOlix is made in the USA INDUSTRIAL: PrOlix has developed its second generation formulation to exceed government guidelines by a mixture of components, of which, none appear on any of the EPA's list of toxic or hazardous substances. In fact, it is a non-aqueous cleaning agent with minimum odor and no residue and totally effective for immersion or hand-wipe cleaning applications. Also, its closed cup flash point above 100°F (38°C) makes it suitable for usage in ultrasonic, spray-under-immersion, recirculating parts washers, and immersion/soak applications. PrOlix recommends not using heat because it is not necessary. The elaborate ongoing testing by our competition is related to the use of their petroleum products, which any armorer or gunsmith will concur does not belong on any firearm. Petroleum products only contaminate and create problems when they are used for cleaning, lubricating and "protecting" the tools of our shooting sports. PrOlix has been compared with them all. The results: there is no other product that even comes close. We strongly encourage you to test it for yourself. Copyright © 2000-2014 PJL Industries PROLIX is a registered trademark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Bullweed Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Ballistol when shooting BP. It keeps the powder crud very soft. Rem Oil for everything else. I got stuck on lubes about ten years that had limited availability. It stunk to feel like I was unprepared if I allowed my self to run out. It was all in my noggin. My experience is now that RemOil is as good as others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chili Ron Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Howdy, Where do I go for samples? If they are all so great, I will supply the dirty gunz. A pard just gave me clp because he went with some new kind of cleaner. Best CR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother King, SASS #69031 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I bowhunt with a retired Shell petroleum engineer whose 35 year career was analyzing oil. MOBIL ONE SYNTHETIC both oil and grease OR Froglube (which is that with a lubricity component in grease form and smells groovy). He just sent me this: Basically synthetic oil is not distilled from crude oil. It is made through a chemical process known as the Fischer-Tropsch process. The branched-chain structure of synthetic oils naturally resist changes in viscosity with temperature. It's just the way they're made. Synthetic oil will gradually dissolve most sludge deposits. So... spend your money how you see fit. 1 qt of 10-50 Mobil 1 lasts a long time in the gun world. I did put mine in an old Ballistol spray bottle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 So... spend your money how you see fit. 1 qt of 10-50 Mobil 1 lasts a long time in the gun world. I did put mine in an old Ballistol spray bottle. IF I was going to use Mobil 1 oil on my guns it would be 0W-20. 10W-50 is awfully heavy oil for guns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother King, SASS #69031 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 IF I was going to use Mobil 1 oil on my guns it would be 0W-20. 10W-50 is awfully heavy oil for guns. Would you change it every 3,000 miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Your Nemesis Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Tri-Flow (formally Tri-flon) Have used it for many years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 It is not my intention to insult anyone but it's all just opinions and anecdotal until you actually put it to the test. I suggest you take your favorite lube, apply it to a clean polished metal test plate or some steel wool, and put it outdoors where it will be exposed to UV, moisture, and dust. Put an unprotected plate as your control right beside it. Take a picture at regular intervals and then after 6 months post how well your chosen lube /preservative performs. John Boy has done this a couple of times and the results are easy to see. So far the best I have seen with photographic evidence to back up the claims was Hornady One Shot. For the BP compatibility claims; thoroughly clean and lube a revolver with the product under test and then start loading rounds and firing till the pistol quits functioning with no cleaning or wiping in-between shots or when reloading. Will the revolver function for at least 100 rounds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.