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Jess Money

Modifying Baikal M220 extractor

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I'm wanting to modify my Baikal double by cutting the extractor in half so that just the bottom section of the extractor engages the shotgun shell rims. So. I have two questions for those knowledgeable about this modification, please.

 

1. At what point between top and bottom of the extractor do you cut? In other words, how much extractor should be left in order to extract the shells cleanly?

 

2. What substance do you use to retain the top half of the extractor in the barrels?

 

I've seen the modification on quite a few doubles used by the pards I shoot with and it was suggested I try it in order to load faster by avoiding the protruding extractor at the top opening of the tubes. Looks like that mod makes sense, especially when Long Hunter's "How To Load Shotguns" video shows the double shotgun he's using with that similar type modification.

Any answer and suggestions or tips on the procedure will be appreciated. Thanks!

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On one I had done, the smith cut the extractor at the thinnest part (the "horizontal diameter") and pinned the top half to the monoblock with a couple of soft steel pins, which he slightly upset with a punch and hammer.

 

(If you have any coning of the chamber done at the same time, what is left of the extractor's lip should not be coned, just sharp edges removed.)

 

Good luck, GJ

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The first thing I do is drill the upper part of the extractor and the barrel rib for a tight fitting pin. Then I use a thin cutoff wheel and cut the extractor in the narrowest/hour glass spot just below the guide pin. To attach the upper piece, the guide pin is JB weld-ed as is the second pin and the pin is peened over and polished flush.

 

To keep the lower part of the extractor from turning I turn the retaining screw in enough. I use the 222 Purple LocTite to retain it.

 

DSCN1377.jpg

 

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I would just cut the top two edges off of it to make the center a long straight "splitter" for the shells. It will make them easier to load without getting one shell on top of the shorter center portion. I did just what you are talking about to mine when I first started and ended up welding it up to make it longer again. I am now shooting a Browning and the shorter extractor it has is the only thing I am not crazy about.

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Be careful of leaving an "unsupported arc" around the rim of the shell where you have removed part of the steel. Pressure can expand the hull of the shell enough to make it stick, make it non-reloadable, or even bust open and dump powder gases back into the action or your face.

 

That's the main reason that the trimmed off chunk of extractor is fastened back onto the monoblock.

 

Good luck, GJ

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The first thing I do is drill the upper part of the extractor and the barrel rib for a tight fitting pin. Then I use a thin cutoff wheel and cut the extractor in the narrowest/hour glass spot just below the guide pin. To attach the upper piece, the guide pin is JB weld-ed as is the second pin and the pin is peened over and polished flush.

 

To keep the lower part of the extractor from turning I turn the retaining screw in enough. I use the 222 Purple LocTite to retain it.

 

DSCN1377.jpg

 

How ever you did it, it works perfectly.

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I have been using the method that Nate uses for years. Be sure everything is degreased properly before using bonding compound on upper part of extractor. As a note though, sometimes the lower retaining screw will not reach far enough to ride in the flat cutout on the extractor allowing the extractor to still rotate. On these the hole will either need to be tapped deeper, or the screw head hole drilled deeper, or both. I agree with GJ about unsupported chamber mouths areas.

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I have been using the method that Nate uses for years. Be sure everything is degreased properly before using bonding compound on upper part of extractor. As a note though, sometimes the lower retaining screw will not reach far enough to ride in the flat cutout on the extractor allowing the extractor to still rotate. On these the hole will either need to be tapped deeper, or the screw head hole drilled deeper, or both. I agree with GJ about unsupported chamber mouths areas.

 

Ya know, now that you mentioned it, I think I ended up using a longer screw

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Thank you, Nate, for your detailed response. Family matters prevented me from thanking you sooner. I'm so pleased to have had a brief but concise lesson from one of the very best gunsmiths in the Association address my query personally. I feel confident I'll be able to complete the modification as per your instructions.

 

In the vernacular..."Ain't this the friendilest forum on the internet?"

 

Durn tootin'!

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Ya know, now that you mentioned it, I think I ended up using a longer screw

Well I guess you know then that the hole for the retaining screw is not a "through" hole, and simply using a longer screw would not help without modifying the screw significantly.

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Be careful of leaving an "unsupported arc" around the rim of the shell where you have removed part of the steel. Pressure can expand the hull of the shell enough to make it stick, make it non-reloadable, or even bust open and dump powder gases back into the action or your face.

 

That's the main reason that the trimmed off chunk of extractor is fastened back onto the monoblock.

 

Good luck, GJ

I have never had any problem on my shotguns with this, BUT I only shoot Winchester Low Recoil shells.

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Well I guess you know then that the hole for the retaining screw is not a "through" hole, and simply using a longer screw would not help without modifying the screw significantly.

 

I don't think I would call it modified significantly. I just chucked the threaded end in the lathe and turned the threads off enough to clear then cut to length. Sort of like the hook screw on a 97. Easy to do, a feller can do that with a file and a drill motor clamped in a vise.

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Well the original OP asked for any suggestions or tips on the procedure. I'll give up, he can use what info is useful for him, and not turn it into a pi**ing contest between fellow gunsmiths. After all, the op has refered to it as the "friendilest forum on the internet"

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I had Johnny meadows do both of mine that were done.perfect job he does on them, they open easy, the extractor mod and several other tweeks to make the gun very fast to shoot if you are able to shoot it fast, I'm not.

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Everything is cool with me. I appreciate Nate's response and plan to do the mod tomorrow. I did find out that some of the early extractor screw retainer sections were too short and reqiured thread removal to in order for the retainer to put enough pressure on the flat area of the extractor rod to prevent rotation.

 

As I said before,,,"Ain't this the friendilest forum on the internet?"

 

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!

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