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Newbie Reloading Questions


Aunt Jen

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Hello reloaders,

 

#1 My RL 550B powder canister is an open tube on top, no low powder sensor. Is that okay for reloading? Or must it have something in it to weigh down on the powder?

 

#2. Best powder: I've got a couple kinds, mostly Tightgroup, which I do hear is okay. What about Trail Boss? Does it matter? Personal taste? I also have Expansion Industries ETR7

 

#3. I've gone to the Hodgdon site

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol

And under manufacturer of bullet, it says Hodgdon or IMR. I bought my 170s from Lone Star, but I don't know the manufacturer. Does it matter who the manufacturer is if the weight is the same?

 

I think I'm getting this. I've seen some good video on setting up, and I'm grokking my dyes. I think this may work out. :)

 

 

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1) It needs a lid, but nothing to 'push' the powder down.

 

2) Personal preference though some powder work best for certain applications, pistol caliber, rifle caliber, long range, etc.

 

3) I think that is probably the manufacturer of the powder, not the lead bullet.

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#1. Open tube, with a lid. No powder weight needed.

#2. Love Trail Boss and would be a great powder to start with. very bulky and readily apparent if you make a mistake.

#3. At our low pressures weight is important, not shape or manufacturer. If you get into full house loads, these things can matter due to more or less bearing surface in different designs.

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#1 Just fill the powder measure, double check the powder weight on a scale and go. I usually try to keep my powder above 1/3 full.

 

#2 Titegroup is good (more recoil than Clays IMO) I here Trail Boss is good but I've never tried it. Trail Boss uses more therefor using more. I've never heard of ETR7 I'll have to look that one up.

 

#3 Make sure the load data lists Lead bullet and is the correct weight. You will be loading on the lower side of the loading data for CAS so all else should be good.

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Jen.

 

Best advice I can offer is to make sure you use the large powder bar. I use Trail Boss and am very happy with it. Powder tube should have a lid on top. Don't worry about brand of bullet, as long as it is the same weight and type as whats in the load data. Good luck.

 

Irish Tom.

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Always have the cover on the powder hopper. In case of a Primer tube explosion/malfunction, where the primer follower blows out you do not want the rain down of hot primers in the open powder hopper.

 

If you need a cover, I have an extra one I could let go.

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A cover on your powder hopper is all that's needed. Some powders flow better than others, but adding weight doesn't help with that. Some people strap a small aquarium motor to their powder hopper because the vibration helps the powder flow better, but that's an advanced trick you don't need to mess with at this stage.

 

Trail Boss powder is popular for light loads like we use because it has a lot of bulk for a given weight, so it fills more of the case than a more dense powder would. Having too much air space in a case can cause problems with some powders.

 

I'll defer to the others on the bullet manufacturer question. I don't worry about it myself. We're not making high performance sniper ammo here; we're just throwing rocks... with style!

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Aunt Jen, your Dillon powder measure should have come with a cover... it isn't neaded for anything except keep the powder in and dust or other contaminants out. Set up properly, it's not really needed. I just like keeping the lid on mine. If you don't have one, a phone call to Dillon will get one in the mail to you.

 

Titegroup is a wee bit faster burning according to the charts than some other powders, not "more" recoil per se, just a sharper spike for similar load densities. Per their website ETR7 loads very similarly to Titegroup. For a copy of the loading data they ask that you email them at LoadingData@etr7.Expansion-Industries.com. Might just have to check them out myself.

 

And yes, make sure the load data is for a LEAD bullet, as jacketed bullets will develop slightly higher pressures with the same powder charge... but yield slightly lower velocities... mainly due to the more malleable aspects of lead and the presence of a lube. Very hard cast bullets negate this somewhat. Staying near the bottom end of the chart will also negate these differences and keep you out of trouble.

 

I highly recommend that you ask around among the shooters near you that currently reload, (especially one that loads on a Dillon 550B), and ask for some personalized guidance. Nothing like having a mentor that you can call at all hours of the day or nite and ask questions of! Some will be better teachers than others... but you can learn tricks and how to avoid pitfalls from all of them.

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Always have the cover on the powder hopper. In case of a Primer tube explosion/malfunction, where the primer follower blows out you do not want the rain down of hot primers in the open powder hopper.

 

If you need a cover, I have an extra one I could let go.

sure, Lefty. I just pm'd you with my address. Please let me know what you'dlike for it.

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Aunt Jen, your Dillon powder measure should have come with a cover...

 

It probably did come with the cover. This sat in the garage for a few years...hubby got ill, things harried...hubby passed...zombie time... Then I go to sort out the garage, and I remember I have this Dillon.. :) So I'm setting it up, learning. I think I have everything except a polish, walnut shells, and the lid for the powder measure. I probably lost the lid. :( But I'll buy Lefty's off him, I guess.

 

I think the thing to do is finish setting it up, load some, and then go test fire.

 

QUESTIONS:

 

#1 What do you do with rounds that you mess up, that may be in various stages of reloading, maybe brass with primer in, or primer and powder and bullet but messed up...

 

#2 Can powder stay in the powder measure between reloadings? or returned to the original container --- then have to dismantle the powder container to pour it back into the original powder container?

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I keep a coffee can by the press for the messed up rounds, eventually I will go thru them and pull the bullets and whatever.

 

I leave powder in the measure. and then at the start of each loading session I throw 10 or so charges and put the powder back into the measure and then measure one just in case the powder compressed in the bottom of the measure.

 

If you call dillon you can get a replacement lid for the powder measure.

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It probably did come with the cover. This sat in the garage for a few years...hubby got ill, things harried...hubby passed...zombie time... Then I go to sort out the garage, and I remember I have this Dillon.. :) So I'm setting it up, learning. I think I have everything except a polish, walnut shells, and the lid for the powder measure. I probably lost the lid. :( But I'll buy Lefty's off him, I guess.

 

I think the thing to do is finish setting it up, load some, and then go test fire.

 

QUESTIONS:

 

#1 What do you do with rounds that you mess up, that may be in various stages of reloading, maybe brass with primer in, or primer and powder and bullet but messed up...

 

#2 Can powder stay in the powder measure between reloadings? or returned to the original container --- then have to dismantle the powder container to pour it back into the original powder container?

Really, a phone call to Dillon will get you a new cover... free of charge, their "No BS Warranty" is awesome. When you get Lefty's... he'll probably drop by their store and get another!!! ;)

 

#1: I disassemble them. A kinetic bullet puller to pull the bullet and depending on how badly deformed, either drop in the pot to be recast, or reuse in a 'practice' round. Dump the powder back in the hopper, and decap. If the brass is still good, it'll get reused, if not, it goes in a bucket to take to the recycler. If the primer is deformed, I generally take a hammer to 'em and pop 'em... OUTSIDE! Away from any powder or other combustables. If the round will still chamber, I've been known to go ahead and use 'em.

 

#2: I do not recommend you leave powder in the hopper following any reloading session. I maintain the habit of keeping the powder container I'm currently loading on the bench next to the reloader. And ONLY that one container. Once I'm finished with that session, the powder from the hopper goes directly back into it's factory container. Yes, make sure you get any out of the powder bar, tho' it's not necessary to dismantle, you can just work the bar a few times with the container under the spout and it'll be clear. And then back to my powder storage, (an old, inoperable refrigerator). Some powders are very recognizable by their construction, color, finish and other variables... however, others are not so recognizable! And mixing powder is both highly dangerous and wasteful! Any spilled powder is collected and either destroyed or spread over the flower planters... (good fertilizer... high in nitrates). I do tend to string any spilled powder out in a line and take a match to it... smokeless will burn rather slowly and uniformly in an unrestrained area. Black powder... not so much slowly... stay well back and keep it outside on a non-flammable surface!

 

Edited to add: I load for about 6 different handgun cartridges, and have some 10 or so different powders on hand at any given time... It's important that I keep them separated. IMO, a habit is easier learned early when you're only loading one powder; than trying to change it when you complicate matters by loading more than one powder. I actually use 3 different powders in 45 Colt... depending on its intended use. So, even if my 45 Colt dies stay on the machine, there's no guarantee that I'll be loading cowboy loads the next session... or WB loads... or hog huntin' loads...

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If you mess up -and you will, keep them as Grizzly Dave says. You will be buying a kinetic bullet puller down the road to save those components. Nothing more than a hammer type gizmo that you insert a round into and rap on a hard surface (Not my brides counter top.....). The bullet pops out and you can reuse the case, powder, bullet.

 

I leave my powder in the hopper often. But we reload a lot too. If you are not going to be reloading for a week or more I would put it back in it's original container.

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Sent cover this day to you, no charge for item or postage.

 

And Yes Dillon would send you one Free also, and I got rid of an extra in the drawer. I still have another.

And no it will not be re-gifted as it is my spare.

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Sent cover this day to you, no charge for item or postage.

 

And Yes Dillon would send you one Free also, and I got rid of an extra in the drawer. I still have another.

And no it will not be re-gifted as it is my spare.

:D:D:D

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Removing the powder from the powder measure is important if you are going to be loading different rounds with different powders. I know some folks who bought extra powder measures and have them set up for a given round and powder and label them as such.

 

I just load one round, one powder and live in a dry climate so leaving it in doesn't worry me, nor has it ever caused me any problems.

 

I seem to remember that Uniquetek now has some gizmo for removing powder from the hopper more easily. Yup, HERE IT IS.

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I also recommend the Uniquetek Powder hopper baffle. The Dillon hopper has a baffle in the bottom, and the Uniquetek baffle is in the opposing direction when installed in the bottom of the plastic hopper.

With the opposing baffle in place the powder has a constant gravity pressure, thus the weight of the powder drop to the charge bar is constant. The charge is the same no matter how much powder is in the hopper.

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Sent cover this day to you, no charge for item or postage.

 

And Yes Dillon would send you one Free also, and I got rid of an extra in the drawer. I still have another.

And no it will not be re-gifted as it is my spare.

 

That's wonderful! Thank you. I hope you won't mind, though, if I send you a couple dollars for a cup of coffee. :) Glad to receive it.

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Removing the powder from the powder measure is important if you are going to be loading different rounds with different powders. I know some folks who bought extra powder measures and have them set up for a given round and powder and label them as such.

 

I just load one round, one powder and live in a dry climate so leaving it in doesn't worry me, nor has it ever caused me any problems.

 

I seem to remember that Uniquetek now has some gizmo for removing powder from the hopper more easily. Yup, HERE IT IS.

Okay. I live 3 miles from the Pacific Coast, and I'm not sure how moist it is here. I may find a hand/vacuum bellows or something to remove powder for storage. We'll see.

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I do not recommend using a vacuum to pick up any type of powder. Vacuums have electric motors which produce (undetectable) sparks. It takes no time at all to loosen the two allen screws or unscrew the positive return. Remember that although you have dumped the powder out of the tube, manually cycle the powder bar until no flakes of powder come out.

 

If you live near the coast, you will have a certain amount of humidity.....don't leave powder in the hopper, always remove the powder and store in the original container.

 

 

 

If you are unfamiliar with reloading, I suggest talking to some folks and see if they will show you the basics on their (or yours) machine. Buy a manual on reloading and read it.....twice. Start slow, understand the process and you'll be fine.

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Vacuums have electric motors which produce (undetectable) sparks.

 

Non-electric tools like a rubber bulb syringe or a plastic bellows can build up a static charge too. At best it'll make particles of powder stick to it; at worst it can spark.

 

Don't know about the Dillon, but on my Lee the powder measure can unscrew from the top of the charging die without changing any settings. I do that when I want to dump the powder back in its jug.

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Oh, I see what you were thinking about electrical bits in a vacuum.

 

NO. What I meant by a bellows type, or squeeze type, would be something like a plastic katsup bottle squirter with a tube taped on it. No metal or electrical parts. Squeeze it, stick the tube in the powder, un-squeeze it, suck powder up, squirt it into the powder storage container. With this system, it's not possible to ignite it. It's just plastic.

 

If that doesn't work, I may consider something else (stronger bottle), but I can get a "condiments" bottle (like for ketchup or mustard) at Bed Bath and Beyond for $2, and I have one already in the kitchen, never used.

 

But that kind of thing is what I meant.

 

Then I wouldn't have to unbolt the powder filler each time... :) Just thinking.

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I have sized some brass, belled it in the powder #2 station, seated the bullet to the proper depth, and crimped it. LOOKS GOOD, like it came from the store. (No primers/powder installed, yet.) I have carefully compared under a magnifying glass my casings/bullets with factory, and it seems perfect. I'm impressed with it.

 

I'll test with powder once I get the scales.

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Non-electric tools like a rubber bulb syringe or a plastic bellows can build up a static charge too. At best it'll make particles of powder stick to it; at worst it can spark.

 

Oh. Okay. Scrap the katsup bottle idea.

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I have sized some brass, belled it in the powder #2 station, seated the bullet to the proper depth, and crimped it. LOOKS GOOD, like it came from the store. (No primers/powder installed, yet.) I have carefully compared under a magnifying glass my casings/bullets with factory, and it seems perfect. I'm impressed with it.

 

I'll test with powder once I get the scales.

 

Incoming PM.

 

 

Waimea

 

:FlagAm:

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If that test round is what you are to shoot in a Rifle, I would install the round in the magazine then cycle it thru the action. You are looking to see if the test round feeds from the magazine tube, to the cartridge carrier, then to the chamber and ejects properly & smartly.

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I'll test with powder once I get the scales.

 

Howdy Jen

 

I hope what you are saying is you set up your dies and loaded up some dummy rounds, without powder in them, so you could adjust your crimp and get it just right. That's what I hope you are saying. It is always good to sacrifice a few bullets and cases making up dummies while you are getting everything adjusted. Keep the dummy rounds someplace, they will come in handy if you need to change the die adjustment for another style of bullet. The dummies will help you get your adjustments back more quickly if you want to go back to the first style of bullet.

 

Be sure you label your dummies so you don't mistake them for live ammunition. When I am setting up dies for a new caliber or a new bullet I never seat primers in my dummies. That way I can tell at a glance that they are not live ammo. You don't want a round with a primer and bullet but no powder accidentally getting the hammer dropped on it. Good way to get a bullet lodged in the barrel.

 

Do not even attempt to load any powder into your rounds until you have verified the charge that the machine is throwing with your scale.Very Important. You will never know exactly how much powder you are throwing until you verify it with your scales.

 

I did much the same as you, I am completely self taught in reloading. Read a lot, got some books, and figured everything out myself. That said, it is considerably easier if you get a mentor. An experienced reloader to help you along and answer all the questions that are likely to come up. Somebody to literally sit next to you and help you get everything right. Much easier than learning out of a book. Or posting questions on the internet.

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Yes. They're dummies, no primers, no powder. Just to set dyes. Labeled. Good input. Tks. I'm really trying to be careful.

 

Your concern is very well appreciated. Truly.

 

ALSO, I have removed all other primers, powder to a cabinet away from the reloading bench, as has been said before as well by Grif, Et al. The only things on it are for .45 Colt.

 

QUESTION: Hodgdon calculator for 170 w Trail Boss must interpolate btwn

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Doing this w thumb on phone---touched the post icon Will continue.

 

Must interpolate between 160 and 180 listed for my 170s It comes to

 

170 Trail Boss 6.5 starting load grs., 860.5 Vel., 8750 pressure.

 

I will carefully weigh powder.

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Oh, I see what you were thinking about electrical bits in a vacuum.

 

NO. What I meant by a bellows type, or squeeze type, would be something like a plastic katsup bottle squirter with a tube taped on it. No metal or electrical parts. Squeeze it, stick the tube in the powder, un-squeeze it, suck powder up, squirt it into the powder storage container. With this system, it's not possible to ignite it. It's just plastic.

 

If that doesn't work, I may consider something else (stronger bottle), but I can get a "condiments" bottle (like for ketchup or mustard) at Bed Bath and Beyond for $2, and I have one already in the kitchen, never used.

 

But that kind of thing is what I meant.

 

Then I wouldn't have to unbolt the powder filler each time... :) Just thinking.

The Dillon 550s have removable heads. There isn't anything on mine to disconnect except the two pins holding the head in place while in use. The head is not real hard to handle, so you can simply pour the powder back into the jar from the reservoir, once you've removed that new lid you got. It's also easy to work the measure itself to clear the powder bar by pushing it. The residual in the bar empties with a couple of pushes.

 

It's just a bit unwieldy, but not really too hard to handle.

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Doing this w thumb on phone---touched the post icon Will continue.

 

Must interpolate between 160 and 180 listed for my 170s It comes to

 

170 Trail Boss 6.5 starting load grs., 860.5 Vel., 8750 pressure.

 

I will carefully weigh powder.

Sensible idea for sure.

Trail Boss only has a problem when whatever measure you're using is adjusted to it's minimum. Then it's apt to throw very light charges every so often. It's shape and bulkiness is excellent for filling cases protecting against double charges, but plays heck getting into measures that are almost closed. The amount you've mentioned won't come close to having the measure near minimum.

 

I think Lee used to recommend minimum charges of some powders but I haven't seen anything recently. It really only matters when you're trying for charges that've been extrapolated in hopes of getting muzzle velocities way down. And you're not...

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