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Polishing chambers


Col Del Rio

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Some folks have said that I should polish the chambers on my stoeger shotgun for easier reloading. Of course they neglected to say just how to do it. Suggestions?

 

Colonel Del Rio

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Polishing the chambers wont make for easier reloading but it will make for easier shucking of the fired shells. I did my SxS by using a bronze bore brush for the correct gauge shotgun you got. I lightly wrapped 000 steel wool around the brush and chucked it up in a cordless drill with a section of a bore rod. I went slow and checked progress every 30 seconds. Go as far as the forcing cone. Did this for a couple of minutes. I followed it up using 0000 steel wool using oil this time. Take it slow and check progress. It doesnt take much. For easier loading, you can slightly chamfer the chambers but I would let someone experienced do that if your not familiar with that.

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I don't know how legitimate it is, but I've heard tell of some pards using 2000 grit paper, saturated with honing oil, wrapped around an appropriate size attachment on a rod that is chucked in the electric drill.

 

THEN, a finishing touch using a cloth patch saturated with chrome polish (either paste or liquid) using the drill method also.

 

 

..........Widder

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There are all kinds of answers on the forums about chamber polishing do's and don'ts. Ribbed vs smooth hulls. We shoot two Stoeger doubles that have stock chambers and most everything falls out of the chambers. The exception being when I shoot BP but I'm not swabbing out bores between stages.

 

Have you shot it much? Different brands of shells?

 

I did lightly chamfer the top half of the chamber opening. I think that helped my reloading.

 

2014-08-09161052_zps124d5698.jpg

 

One roughed out, one stock.

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I bought a small size brake cylinder hone from one of the local auto parts places. Chuck it up in a drill. Keep it oiled when using. Works great. Only takes a couple minutes to slick them up. Made the empties fall out of my Stoegers very nice.

 

WW

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There are all kinds of answers on the forums about chamber polishing do's and don'ts. Ribbed vs smooth hulls. We shoot two Stoeger doubles that have stock chambers and most everything falls out of the chambers. The exception being when I shoot BP but I'm not swabbing out bores between stages.

 

Have you shot it much? Different brands of shells?

 

I did lightly chamfer the top half of the chamber opening. I think that helped my reloading.

 

2014-08-09161052_zps124d5698.jpg

 

One roughed out, one stock.

 

 

THAT's what I intend to do to my Stoeger. I've seen a couple of guns that were chamfered supposedly by pros that were so deep that they chamfered away the ledge that the rims headspace on. One of those guns was having frequent misfires and I felt that his problem was that his cases were dropping out of reach of the firing pin.

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Might just as well cut the forcing cones to a long taper, too. Reduces felt recoil, chamber pressure and usually makes for better patterns (as if we need) when using plastic wads. Brownells has a reamer for that, and a tapered hone. I really like the flex hones as you get a great finish and no chance of getting the front of the chamber cut larger than the rear, which just makes shucking that much harder.

 

Yes, I've seen several chambers coned so much as to be sloppy and very prone to letting shells sink so deep into the chamber as to cause problems getting a good primer hit. Enough to be fast, not so much to be failing.

 

Good luck, GJ

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Might just as well cut the forcing cones to a long taper, too. Reduces felt recoil, chamber pressure and usually makes for better patterns (as if we need) when using plastic wads. Brownells has a reamer for that, and a tapered hone. I really like the flex hones as you get a great finish and no chance of getting the front of the chamber cut larger than the rear, which just makes shucking that much harder.

 

Yes, I've seen several chambers coned so much as to be sloppy and very prone to letting shells sink so deep into the chamber as to cause problems getting a good primer hit. Enough to be fast, not so much to be failing.

 

Good luck, GJ

Yes..... and Yes

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i used my dremel with a cotton polishing wheel and simichrome chrome polish - use it to polish all my parts now, as well as the chambers in my shotgun.

Way cheaper than a hone and you're not taking any metal off.

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I just ordered 2 hones from Midway last night, 12 gauge and a 20 gauge and an 8 ounce bottle of honing oil. My biggest lost time in a stage is unloading stuck shucks, and it seems the more shotgun targets there are on the stage, the tighter my shucks are stuck. Spent to much on my shotguns to possibly screw them up to save 50 bucks on home made hones.

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In the gunsmithing world, the Dremel is called the "gunsmith's best friend". Makes them lots of money, and they never even have to buy one.

:lol::P

Good luck, GJ

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In the gunsmithing world, the Dremel is called the "gunsmith's best friend". Makes them lots of money, and they never even have to buy one.

:lol::P

Good luck, GJ

I have heard this many times myself, but blaming a Dremel or any other tool when a gun is damaged is a lot like blaming a gun when some one is shot.

 

I am not flaming anyone, just stating my opinion.

 

My apologies for the serious tone,

 

Smoke

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Just remember, no matter how to decide to hone the chambers, REMOVE THE EXTRACTORS BEFORE HONING. I use the Flex-Hone, myself.

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I wrapped scotch bright around a long 30 caliber dewey cleaning jag. Chucked it up in my drill press used a little birchwood casey gun oil and held the barrels and ran them up and down until barrel started to get warm, switched sides. Check progress repeat, when pretty satisfied with the results put a little of that head light rubbing liquid on the scotch bright and repeated process, got the Baikal chambers really shiny.

 

If you have a drill press I think it is easier to hold the barrels straight than it is to use a vise or something to hold the barrels and run the drill in and out straight.

 

Holding either straight may well be over rated but...

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Howdy,

Clean chambers however you like.

Then take a brass brush cover with cleaning patch and dab on the cheapest

white toothpaste from walmart; costs about a buck.

Give firing chamber a good buffing.

Seems to work for pistols, rifle shotgun.

And keeps your shootin irons minty fresh.... ;)

I did this one time when I had to use Lewis lead remover on my blackhawks.

They were so bad 38s would hardly go IN.

I could get the fired 38 cases out without using the ejector rod for several shots.

Be sure to rinse and spit.

Best

CR

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I have heard this many times myself, but blaming a Dremel or any other tool when a gun is damaged is a lot like blaming a gun when some one is shot.

 

I am not flaming anyone, just stating my opinion.

 

My apologies for the serious tone,

 

Smoke

 

It's a gunsmith joke, son, it's just a joke. That is why there were grins and giggles after it.

 

 

Sheesh. Heavens to Murgatroyd. Who was Murgatroyd, anyway?

 

Murgatroyd, the first frog on the Moon, in First Boy on the Moon, a 1959 children's novel by Clifford B. Hicks ??

 

Exit, stage left, and Good luck, GJ

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