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Who owns a Sharps reproduction?


Cyrus Cassidy #45437

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I absolutely love this rifle, and was blessed to have been allowed to shoot one a few years ago. I've wanted one ever since, but as you know, they are quite pricey. Well, methinks it's time to stop dreaming and start saving pennies.

 

I've browsed around to compare prices, and it seems the EMF versions are the most affordable (though the cheapest version is still $1500!). I think their "sporting" model with a Creedmore sight installed is the most appealing to me.

 

Can anyone offer a review on quality?

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I have a Pedersoli; great rifle, it was around $1400 (about 3 or 4 years ago)for the rifle and about $350 for the sights.

It's lot more accurate than I am.

I have one of the early EMF sharps made by IAB; it's not even half the rifle quality wise, can't speak for what EMF are selling now.

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I have a Pedersoli. In 50/70. It's a great rifle. Very accurate. In fact at the short ranges we shoot around here. Up to at most 300. I just use the flip up ladder site and the silver front blade. I like having a gun that's a little bit different from everybody else. It's a gentle giant.

 

I have decided that for the short range we shoot, to switch to a 30/30 so if your interested pm me and we can talk about a package deal. Rifle, about 100 brass, bullets, and dies

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My first BPCR was an .45-70 EMF/IAB Sharps with a light 29" barrel and crescent buttplate. It was actually very accurate and using a buckhorn rear and fat hooded bead front sight I could regularly shoot 1.5-2" groups from a simple rest at 100 yds. In competition it was OK, but that light barrel and crescent buttplate were brutal. After 40 rounds I was bruised and twitchy.

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Pedersoli makes a fine rifle. You can't go wrong with them. You will also have to consider the sights you want to use. Pedersoli makes some nice tang and front sight, which can run into bucks, if you want fancy ones. The ladder rear and blade front sights are fine for general shooting. If you want more precision then you need an adjustable rear and hooded front. Once you start with them, it's a black hole you throw money into. Caliber wise, the 45 70 is the easiest to buy ammo for or to reload. Bullets can go from 300 grains to over 500 grains. Have fun.

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If you're considering $1500 ("cheapest model") or more, you can pay very little more and get a Shiloh, well worth it in my opinion. I would also suggest, as have others, .45-70 for your first black powder cartridge rifle.

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I have a ped quigley model. Bought it new several yrs ago, and put 500 dollars worth of sights on it. The rifle is very accurate and looks great. Only complaint is the recoil. It has a curved butt plate, that's fairly narrow. I can shoot it all day off my bench, but it'll punish you over sticks especially shooting uphill. Pet load is 3f swiss, and a 535 postell. I have a 4590 c sharps that kicks slightly less than the 4570 Quigley. I may sell the quigley. No complaint on accuracy though. It'll shoot minute and a half same as the c sharps.

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Chiappa Quigly and long range sights got a heck of a deal on the 45-70 used to have a shiloh (regret selling it) by far excellant quality the chiappa is good quality ( but not like a shiloh) but i"m happy with it shoots great either BP or Smokeless

Okiepan

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Uberti (Uberti Sharps are made by Pedersoli) .45-70 and .45-120. The Uberti .45-70 shoots slightly but consistently better than my Shiloh .45-70. Lee Shaver sights.

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Years ago I bought an EMF Hartford 74 sporting rifle made by Pedretti. It was inexpensive, has had it's problems as it was not inletted properly. The mainspring was making contact with the stock causing frequent light hits. Discovered the problem when the stock cracked. That has been fixed. It shoots BP loads very well with 405 and 500 gr bullets. Smokeless loads with Unique or Trailboss, not so well. I paid 475$ in 2000. I wish I had saved the money and bought a Shiloh or Pedersoli.

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What are going to do with the rifle: hunt or target work? Hunting rifles are not so good at target work, unless you are shooting all the way to the back of the pistol pits. And, target rifles are heavy and a chore to carry around when hunting.

 

How far do you plan to shoot: 100 yards, 500 yards, or 1000 yards? Long range shooting usually involves some cross wind and big heavy bullets carry better in the wind. The 45-90 shines at 1000 yards, but with the right load the 45-70 will work also. The 40-65 somewhat runs out of steam at about the 800 yard line. The 38-55 is thought of as a 500 yard rifle.

 

Will you only shoot smokeless loads or are you going to go all the way into “buffalo guns” and shoot black powder? Smaller case capacity is better for smokeless loads, while the larger cases tend to work best when loaded with black powder.

 

For target work, avoid crescent buttstocks. They will beat your shoulder up in no time at all.

 

Hunting rifles work best with a simple sight that is not easily bumped out of adjustment. For target work, one the best sights is a soule type sight. I would rather have a run of the mill rifle and the best sight available then the other way around.

I think the most bang for your bucks in long range rifles, is a Browning BPCR, They come with very decent target sights (soule type) for around $1500. The come with highly regarded Badger barrels right from the factory.

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I bought the Cabelas version which is the Pedersoli Benchrest model. It was slightly used and I paid $900 with Pedersoli sights. Every now and then I see these Cabelas Pedersoli rifles traded in and running around $1000. Folks buy them and don't reload so they get beat up by factory ammo and trade them in on something else.

 

I have a number of Pedersoli rifles in various configuration and calibers and ALL of them are extremely accurate. Excellent barrels!

 

I have a C Sharps 1875 in 38-55 that is a wonderful rifle to shoot. With a light load of Unique it is like shooting a 22 Magnum.

 

Keep an eye out and I'm sure you can by a Pedersoli Sharps for around $1000 with sights.

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My C. Sharps is a .50-140 3-1/4" and is accurate beyond belief. I also had one in ,45-70 but settled on the fifty challenge. The .45-70 is easiest because of all of the information and brass available but there's nothing like the thrill of sending 650 grains down range and hearing the clang on steel rams.

 

I spent the extra bucks for the best just as I did with my Les Baer "wadcutter" for bullseye. There's no point in handicapping yourself. 500 plus yards doesn't get smaller and 1/500 is still a stretch for my old eyes. That's why Kelley and MVA sights with extra long range ladder, engraved on both sides and hooded front sights with internal levels and replaceable inserts are required.

 

Take a trip to Big Timber and visit both makers. Visit with them and make your decision to BUY AMERICA.

 

Don't delay. Take it from me, you aren't going to get younger any time soon. :-)

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For target work, avoid crescent buttstocks. They will beat your shoulder up in no time at all.

 

Only complaint is the recoil. It has a curved butt plate, that's fairly narrow. I can shoot it all day off my bench, but it'll punish you over sticks especially shooting uphill.

 

Howdy

 

I agree with the above statements. Although all my CAS Main Match rifles have crescent butt plates, I had no desire to be using a crescent shaped butt plate in a heavy caliber rifle. Off hand is one thing, it is easy to hike the rifle out further on the shoulder so the points of the crescent do not dig into the shoulder. I found shooting at the bench is a completely different story, and I opted for a 'shotgun' style butt plate with my Sharpes.

 

I was originally thinking of getting one of the fancy models like the Quigley, with checkering and pewter fore end cap. But when I inspected some Italian rifles with these features I was disappointed in the quality and execution of these features. So the list of desirable features that I was shopping for were double set triggers, pistol grip, shotgun style butt plate, and a plain uncheckered stock.

 

This is the gun I wound up buying. The only difference between this one and the one I bought a bunch of years ago is this one has a matte finished barrel, mine is shiny blue. Everything else is the same. I paid $800 for it when it was on sale a bunch of years ago. Notice it is on sale right now. Dixie regularly has significant sales on certain models. I bought my Henry from them too.

 

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_92_184&products_id=2576

 

 

Regarding caliber, I strongly recommend starting with 45-70. More components are much more easily available, and there is tons of information about loading it. If you are planning on shooting Smokeless, there is no point to the longer cartridges such as 45-90, 45 -110 or 45-120. You can stuff all the Smokeless powder you need into the 45-70, the extra space in the longer cartridges is wasted, and the brass costs more. if you are planning on shooting Black Powder, I still recommend 45-70. It is the simplest of the long range cartridges to load with Black Powder, tons of information is available.

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I picked up an older Armi Sports (Chiappa) off the wire several years ago. It is one of the small firing pin models. I have broken the firing pin, happily when I bought it I did a little research on line and knew the firing pins were prone to breakage and ordered a couple of replacements. Taylors will drill the breechblock for the larger firing pin for $10, one of these days I will jump on that solution.

 

Overall I find nothing wrong with the fix an finish of my rifle, it certainly does not have super presentation grade wood but it did not come with a super presentation grade price either something like $750 or $800 off the wire. I finally have acquired a quality soule sight now need to get down to serious load development both smokeless and BP.

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Good advice here. I would also suggest you speak with shooters in your area and get their advice and maybe at least handle the rifle for fit.

 

I have a Pedersoli Billy Dixon Sharps in 45-70. The sights that came with it are a joke. Tossed them and got a Soule tang site tallest they had. And a hooded front site with a spirit level and change out sight inserts. I also invested in the eye cup that rotates to provide different aperture openings for varying light conditions. Sights are very important.

 

Who makes the barrels are also important. I believe Pedersoli is either buying Green Mountain barrels or have come up with the metallurgy and quality of Green Mountain.

 

For real accurate shooting out to 400 yards and way beyond prone shooting is the answer. Once I stopped sitting and went to prone my accuracy went way up. Laying prone causes the rifle butt to set against your shoulder differently. It's more up on your collar bone. So the big calibers mentioned will hammer you hard and make shooting miserable...my opinion.

 

45-70 has the most available load info. bullet types and weights, and established results. Every rifle needs to find the "LOAD" that results in the best accuracy. Someones PET load may not work in your rifle but it's a starting point.

 

Hard bullets for smokeless and soft bullets for BP. As in 20-1 or 30-1 lead.

 

Most BPCR and other long range shooters invest in Swiss 1 1/2 or 2FFG powder. It burns the best and has reduced fouling if shooting BP.

 

Investing in a "C" or Shilo sharps buys you a work of art and a very well fitted rifle. If that is what you want then go for it. I wanted something I could shoot and not worry about getting it dinged up on the range.

 

After all the investment in sights, the right powder, right bullet weight, and shooter experience my Pedersoli shoots 3" groups at 400 yards. If I'm on, the wind is OK,no real mirage, and I follow thru after each shot.

Ike

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EMF and Cimarron both sell Pedersoli, and the EMF is much less expensive.

Cyrus, a recommendation ... buy a used Pedersoli '74 Sharps.

Facing facts, you'll shoot less than a 50 rounds per year with the Sharps and there are many for sale that have have 100 or so rounds down the barrel in their lifetime

There are few folks that shoot Sharps with a high number of rounds annually and they are in the BPCR community ... of which there are not many SASS shooters

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I have had 2 IAB sharps since strarting this game.I'll tell you about them: ya may want to set down.

 

The first one I got was an IAB "Business Rifle" I bought used at a shop not too far from here. It was a shorter model, I 'spoze you'd call it a "Carbine". The wood was so-so, fit & finish O.K. no checkering, blued barrel & lock. Ladder sight with a "CVA" style brass front blade. I don't remember if the barrel was round or not. It was a salesman's "Sample" gun, so I don't think it had been shot, in fact I'm pretty sure it hadden't been. I wasn't loading BP cartrage at the time, so I bought some 45-70 factory loads and headed home.

After cleaning and fondeling my new prize, we were off to the range bright and early the next morning. Got the targe all set @ 50 yrds, got the gun all bagged up, set the trigger and touched the beast off.

HOLY COW !! What a rush, hit the plate and every thing!!! It was fun up till then.......................

After digging around in my vehicle, I found my trusty loading stick for my muzzle loader and knocked the brass out of the chamber! Looked at it for a bit, nothing split, I was assured at the shop this gun would shoot factory ammo, what the heck? So I looked at the barrel, it was in one piece so, let's try her again................SAME RESULTS, brass stuck in chamber!!

Got to looking at the chamber and it was so rough, the brass would't come out. SO off to the gun shop. Showed them what was going on, they couldn't get the brass out without a ram rod either!

They himmed & hawwed a bit, I mentioned canceling a check, and they decided to send it in and see what happened. I'm not too happy at this point, but what the heck.

 

After waiting what seemed to be forever..............I got a box from IAB. They hadn't fixed the one I sent in, they sent me a brand new "Deluxe" model!!

The wood was gorgeous,had checkering and a octaganal browned barrel. And the chamber was like a mirror..........(More on that in a bit)

The fit of the wood was worse than the first one,you could see light through the gap under the hammer, but I figgerd I'd better quit while I was ahead.

 

Whilst I was waiting for this gun to show up I had purchased the equipment to load for 45-70, of course in BP. And of course I couldn't get the thing to shoot worth a hill of beans. After measuring the chamber, I determined that it was some where between 45-70 & 45-90., kinda half-ways-sorta.

 

In the mean time, the saftey-thingy fell off, and I started having lock problems.

 

The saftey-thingy was a pain in the butt any way, so problem solved. I took the lock apart, and OMG!! I swear they drew out the parts with chalk and cut them out with an AXE!!!!

After many hours of filing, and honeing, the lock went from CLUNK CLUNK to clickety click click click!!!

Needless to say, it is someone elses problem now.

 

I have a "Quiggley" done by " Pedersoli" now. The lock is like "Clock works" inside, just georgous, and it shoots straighter than I can on most days.

 

I was told once that IAB stands for " Is Always Broken" I wonder where they got that?

 

Good luck & have fun...............

 

Knarley

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I have an old ASM. It has given me groups that if I posted them, people would not believe it. But I will tell you that I have gotten groups well under 3 inches at 200 yards with it.

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Love my Shilo Sharps #3 Sporting Rifle in .45-70, unfortunately on an annual basis Long Range matches in Cowboy action are few and far between.

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I own a Shiloh Sharps in 45-90, but I may buy a Pedersoli Sharps in 50-70 if I can find one that isn't too expensive. The Italian made ones, such as Pedersoli, Uberti, Chiappa, seem to be quality rifles, from the ones I have seen, and handled. I have seen some really poor reproductions out

there too, so be careful and try to look at it in person, and not rely on an internet sale, if you want to be sure it is a quality rifle. One of

the Sharps websites has a tee shirt that says "Sharps...made the West safe for Winchester". Remember, the majority of the time you get what you payfor. On rare occasions, we sometimes get more than we pay for, but that is the exception, and not the rule. A quality Sharps, whether it be

American made, or Italian import, will not be cheap...but for me, it has been an investment in fun. I like fun.

 

My two bits.

W.K.

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Can anyone offer a review on quality?

Cyrus, 31 posts later and we have covered every '74 Sharps replica rifle on the market. Let's put this thread to bed!

For under $1500, even #1100 at Cabelas, the Pedersoli '74 Sharps rifle is the rifle to buy. I have two. The fit to finish is above average and the barrel which is the must for accuracy is Match Grade! If you want the factory spec's send me a PM. BTW, have 1000yd targets for support of the rifle's accuracy

Mentioned in the thread several times is the Shiloh Sharps. They with no argument make a fine overall rifle but your wait time is normally 2 years and the price can run $2000 up.with a match grade barrel also

 

Are Shiloh's works of art? Yes, if you want to spend $5,000 and up or so.but ... I have in my safe a German Schuetzen rifle that is a true Work of Art that would make Shiloh cry like a baby with a match grade barrel - fully engraved, wood that you'd drool for that is fully checked and carved with a Bavarian roll over cheek piece. I paid $1500 for it. Nor did I have to wait 2 years for it

So, if you want an accurate shooting 47-70 ... buy the Pedersoli. Put a MVA, Baldwin, Hoch or Shaver vernier on it and go have fun

 

 

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Another point in favor of .45-70, with the proper loading, recoil can be quite managable, wven with a crecent butt plate.

 

I started this caliber in an 1884 Trapdoor rifle, shooting a safe for trapdoors smokeless load. The recoil was quite managable. But, the rifle ws very heavy after a couple of shots, so I resolved to get a carbine.

 

By the time the next shoot where I could use it came around, I had an 1873 Trapdoor Carbine, and a Winchester 1886 with a 20" octogon barrel. Recoil on both guns was quite painful in every way, and this was with a trapdoor safe load.

 

So, I switched to Trailboss. Now recoil was pleasant in both gun, even the crecent butt of the '86.

 

I've hefted a Sharps on occasion, and to me, they seem to be comparable in weight to the Trapdoor rifle. Given that, I'd guess that recoil in a .45-70 would be managable with the right loading. I could be wrong, of course, but that's my guess.

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I own a C Sharps 1874 in 45-70. Love the fact you can order it the way you want. I shoot a 500 grain military bullet at 1100 ft. per second. What a pleasure to shoot off sticks. I ordered a heavy 34" barrel. Harly any recoil. Waited 5 years for it around the time Quigley came out. You can find deals once in a while. The $1800 price seams like a great deal for a used or new one depending on condition. Look at their web site and the base price. Look at the quality of the sights. They can be expensive but your rifle only shoots as good as the sights. Good luck, you will have a blast.

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When I bought my first Shiloh many years ago I used to put it on a cleaning stand and just walk around it and admire it. Any of the quality rifles mentioned will last a lifetime. The premium you'll pay for a Shiloh amortized over the years is well worth it to me.

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