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Need Stock Refinishing Help


Tater Head

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Howdy Pards,

I need some help with stripping the finish off this bad boy. I've buttered it up with Strip eze (Sp?) to no avail. So far four applications and almost no results. I've stripped heavy finishes off Remington 1100's & 700's with this stuff without too much trouble.

I had a can of this stuff that was a couple of years old and thought it was old so got a fresh can and have had the same results.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

 

Tater

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Don't try pulling the finish off with sandpaper. I've tried, and the Uberti wood is not proud enough of the frame to stand all the sanding needed to cut all the Uberti bowling-pin type finish. You will end up with wood sunk down below the metal.

 

Try the EZ Off. Citristrip will take quite a while to soften the finish.

 

Good luck, GJ

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Had a buddy who was raised in a custom furniture shop turn me on to this stuff.http://www.amazon.com/Spray-Paint-Varnish-Remover-Flammable/dp/B000C02CF4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417833035&sr=8-2&keywords=dads+easy+spray. Warning though the fumes can be nasty so do it where there is some air flow. Have used citristrip on a few stocks but will now only use Dads.

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Thanks for all the replies pards.

I am going to try Ez Off because the Mrs. has some under the sink.

I am hoping to make the rifle as pretty as she was 12 years ago.

Thanks Again,

Tater

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Citristrip is wonderful

 

I just finished a Uberti using this. I used the spray. Spray it on and leave it on overnight. Finish came right off...even in the checkering. I was really surprised.

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Guest Hoss Carpenter, SASS Life 7843

Back in the early 80s I had a 3 in Remington 870 Duck gun that was way too shiny. The finish on those Remingtons (870s and 1100s) was Bolling Ball tough. I took the wood of and soaked in overnight in Brake Fluid. Finish just melted off, and I put a satin, non glare finish on it for hunting.

 

Hoss

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Back in the early 80s I had a 3 in Remington 870 Duck gun that was way too shiny. The finish on those Remingtons (870s and 1100s) was Bolling Ball tough. I took the wood of and soaked in overnight in Brake Fluid. Finish just melted off, and I put a satin, non glare finish on it for hunting.

 

Hoss

Just a OT tip: brake fluid will remove most paint from plastics without damaging the base. I've used it on model trains for years.

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I have been refinishing and repairing stocks since the 1960's.

The above suggestion will work.

I have always settled on Formby's to remove the finish from fine woods. It doesn't raise the grain as much as other products and can be applied and removed without waiting in between coats. You can remove as much or as little as you desire.

Some of the more recent Poly finishes can be very resistant to your attempts.

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Longshot Logans formula does work well. Double L was amazing with wood. I'm just sorry he passed before I had him do my stocks.

 

Anyone still on the wire remember his outlandish posts and pictures? Just thinking of my old Pard is making me smile.

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