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Well….A Garand landed in my safe.


Key Hay

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Had a neighbor take a job out of country and had no firearms storage. So I volunteered to store an M1 Garand that was his fathers. He's not a shooter and after a few years offered to sell it to me. Always wanted a Garand so I said yes.

 

The Garand is a 6 million Springfield National Match that came from CMP. His dad actually competed at Camp Perry with it (there are trigger pull certificates in the but stock from 1960 and 1962). He was a state Champion Highpower shooter too.

 

The rifle had not been cleaned in years. It would cycle and shoot but was real gummy. I disassembled it (thanks to the Brownells videos on Youtube) and gave it a good soaking with CLP. There was some surface rust on the trigger assembly and a few minor cosmetic issues. was not able to get the gas tube assy off since the screw won't budge. Cleaned everything else best I could. It should be OK in my safe now for a while till I can get back to it after the move.

 

The front hand guard is not original but the rest of the rifle is original with all the correct "NM" markings (I think).

 

Once we get the Move to the Charlotte area I would like to find someone who knows there way around a Garand to help me get this one back in shape. Would maybe like to put some new furniture on it.

 

 

Maybe there will eventually be a WWII Cowboy category and I'll be ahead of the game!

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those are fine rifles... I had a CMP too, shot like a dream,,, a friend's wife got one from CMP that was a Nat Match too....

 

I've had two and both were tac drivers

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You lucky dogs. Been wanting one for years. I have the carbine. Guess I'll keep saving and looking. Have fun.

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Sounds like a great rifle. I learned to shoot as kid from my Dad and from US Army instructors on .22 40x rifles indoors and M1 Garands outdoors. I always wanted one, but for some reason never acquired one.

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No clips, but I did get my thumb smashed by the bolt. Definitely gonna lose that thumbnail!!!

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I live in Greensboro (about 90 miles east of Charlotte) and lived in Raleigh for nearly 20 years. There is a gunshop in Apex (near Raleigh) called Young Guns. The guys there ROd DCM and high power matches for years. They should be to lead you to the best in NC for the Garand.

 

Once you get in Charlotte, come check out the many CAS ranges nearby: Salisbury (about 40 minutes up I-85) and Statesville (about 30 minutes up I-77) to name just a couple of the fifteen monthly matches in NC. You will also be close to some good ranges in SC.

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I managed to get a rifle from the CMP a couple years ago before the run on them started. Mine was assembled from pieces but it's on new walnut furniture. It'll never pass for vintage but I bought it to shoot, not to enter in a beauty contest. I took it to an NRA First Steps for the M1 Garand class last June and one of the instructors stopped to do a double take when he saw it. He said right now that's about a $900 rifle. I think I paid $600 for it.

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I have 2 Garand's. One I bought years ago from a small gun shop when I was on a trip. It's a Springfield and came from a foreign arsenal somewhere....not sure where and he didn't know. It has #47 painted on the stock. Bore isn't the greatest but it still shoots the ball ammo in 2-3 inch groups at 100 yards. My other one is a composite rifle I got from Century Arms International. That one has a Dutch barrel on it and it'll shoot 1-1 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards with the ball ammo. Also have a Winchester M1 Carbine I got from my uncle. He bought that through the NRA back in the 50's for I think he said $75. It was un-issued and still wrapped in the wax paper and cosmoline. It's had a total of 20 rounds through it. Also got a Remington 1903a3 from him. Another NRA for $50 rifle. That one's a tack driver with good ammo like the Hornady red tip 150's.

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You don't want to take the gas cyl. off a Garand any more than you absolutely have to. Especially on a match rifle. Bad for accuracy. You also don't want to take the stock off if you can help it. NM rifles were bedded and you want to leave that alone. Use grease on the op-rod ear track and the bolt track ears. When you clean it after firing, do it belly-up to keep as much crud as you can out of the gas cyl. bleed hole. Use ammo with the correct burn rate to cycle the op-rod correctly. No slow powders.

 

Now go out and shoot that thing and have a ball!

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You don't want to take the gas cyl. off a Garand any more than you absolutely have to. Especially on a match rifle. Bad for accuracy. You also don't want to take the stock off if you can help it. NM rifles were bedded and you want to leave that alone. Use grease on the op-rod ear track and the bolt track ears. When you clean it after firing, do it belly-up to keep as much crud as you can out of the gas cyl. bleed hole. Use ammo with the correct burn rate to cycle the op-rod correctly. No slow powders.

 

Now go out and shoot that thing and have a ball!

Rifle was full of crud. The spring had sections that were solid crud. It's been in a Plano gun case under a bed for 20 years. It's a bedded stock and I only want to get it cleaned up for preservation. Have not shot a Highpower match in a long time. I have a bushmaster DCM for that if I do.

 

This is one of 2 firearms I will own for life because I know it's history. Original owner (I would hope) would be glad it's in my charge. He was a 3 time state champion and regularly competed at Camp Perry in the early 60's. I consider it an honor to own this rifle.

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Congratulations on a fine rifle. If you're not going to shoot it then you should completely disassemble and check for any rust or corrosion under the receiver and the barrel. Once assembled and the rifle cycles properly a little touch up every 6 mos or so should keep it in good shape. The rifle has a history and, therefore, should be left as is. All CMP rifles are US surplus that are mixed and matched, in that they have gone through a disassembly, inspection and replacement process by the military. If the rifle you own has not gone through that process and came from CMP (DCM at the time), such as the M1C and M1D snipers of the 1990's auctions/lotteries, then you would reduce its value by changing parts. You might be able to get some details from CMP by supplying them with the SN. Good luck.

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Just need to get the gas cylinder lock screw out and I can finish cleaning it.

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Both of my Garands came from CMP. One was made in March 1945 and the other is a low six digit number that was made in late '40 or early '41. Both are excellent shooters.

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Just need to get the gas cylinder lock screw out and I can finish cleaning it.

There are special wrenches made to hold the gas cyl. still while you remove the lock. You want to avoid letting the cyl. try to twist on the barrel as you loosen the lock screw. The splines on the barrel will widen and de-form causing the cyl. to fit loose on the barrel. Soak it in Kroil and get a good grip on the cyl.

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There are special wrenches made to hold the gas cyl. still while you remove the lock. You want to avoid letting the cyl. try to twist on the barrel as you loosen the lock screw. The splines on the barrel will widen and de-form causing the cyl. to fit loose on the barrel. Soak it in Kroil and get a good grip on the cyl.

Got the lock screw out. Turns out a 1/4" ratchet drive fits in the newer style screw perfectly. Now the gas cylinder lock won't budge.

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Got the lock screw out. Turns out a 1/4" ratchet drive fits in the newer style screw perfectly. Now the gas cylinder lock won't budge.

Properly fitted lock will screw on finger tight to about the 4:00 or 5:00 position and then require a wrench to get to the final 6:00. Wish you were closer, I would lend you my special wrench! You may need a block of wood and a mallet to drive the cyl. off the barrel. Use the bayonet lug.

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Definitely NO slower-burning powders than the one listed by Capt. Dan! The slow-burning powders maintain their pressures farther down the barrel. Since the gas port is located just behind the muzzle, higher port pressures will result in the action being moved too violently to the rear, possibly resulting in all sorts of damage to the action, especiallly the operating rod!

 

There are several books out on care and maintenance of the M-1 Rifle (Garand). A great one on the history and some of the workings is "Hatcher's Book of the Garand", which is long out of print, but can probably be found on Amazon, et al.

 

Hope your thumb feels better soon! :o

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M-1 Rifles are just great! Even by todays standards it would work well in combat. I used the one I have in a military rifle match at our club. I won the Mad Minute Event with it. 21 shots and 21 hits on a 100 yd target off hand in one minute. Great fun!

 

Cocked, Locked, Ready to Rock! :D

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Powders for M1 imr 4895, 4064 Win 748, AA2520 Hodgdon Varget. Anyone other than IMR 4895 or 4064 will work as well

Most likely I'll just run a box of factory thru it. Not set up reloading necked cartridges (well except .223).

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Most likely I'll just run a box of factory thru it. Not set up reloading necked cartridges (well except .223).

You want to use an M2 Ball equivalent. Most factory hunting loads are for bolt actions and use too slow a powder.

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Need some pictures! Garand's are awesome and it sounds like you have a real collectors item.

CMP can probably provide documents to prove it's NM status.

 

OK here ya go….

 

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Most likely I'll just run a box of factory thru it. Not set up reloading necked cartridges (well except .223).

As others have said, Garands have specific load requirements and "factory" ammo not specifically designated for use in the Garand can easily damage the rifle. Check with CMP for ammo.

http://thecmp.org/cmp_sales/ammo-parts-accessories/

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I'd recommend NOT using anything but U.S. military ammo, and nothing with a headstamp earlier than 1953. 53 and later used NON-corrosive primers, (except for certain National Match ammo, the dates of which were certain lots I can't recollect, somewhere in the 1960's). The best M2 Ball I ever shot was TW54. Probably none to be found. I'd stay away from foreign military .30-06, as some had Berdan primers, which are a pain to reload, some used steel cases, some may have been corrosive primered. The Lyman manual lists loads specifically tailored for the Garand.

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I'd recommend NOT using anything but U.S. military ammo, and nothing with a headstamp earlier than 1953. 53 and later used NON-corrosive primers, (except for certain National Match ammo, the dates of which were certain lots I can't recollect, somewhere in the 1960's). The best M2 Ball I ever shot was TW54. Probably none to be found. I'd stay away from foreign military .30-06, as some had Berdan primers, which are a pain to reload, some used steel cases, some may have been corrosive primered. The Lyman manual lists loads specifically tailored for the Garand.

Was thinking of getting a few boxes of this:

 

http://www.hornady.com/store/30-06-168-gr-A-MAX-M1-Garand/

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A set of hornady new dimension dies, cost about the same or less than 2 boxes of ammo and are much cheaper than a new op rod. Just saying

Also stay away from really heavy bullets The hornady M1 ammo will be just fine and not a bad source of brass. If you load Military brass and are using ordinary data that is not specifically for military brass rule of thumb reduce loads 2 grains to make up for the reduced powder capacity of milspec brass (thicker walls makes for less volume)

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I live in Greensboro (about 90 miles east of Charlotte) and lived in Raleigh for nearly 20 years. There is a gunshop in Apex (near Raleigh) called Young Guns. The guys there ROd DCM and high power matches for years. They should be to lead you to the best in NC for the Garand.

 

Once you get in Charlotte, come check out the many CAS ranges nearby: Salisbury (about 40 minutes up I-85) and Statesville (about 30 minutes up I-77) to name just a couple of the fifteen monthly matches in NC. You will also be close to some good ranges in SC.

 

Hey Tom, I've shot the SC state matches in '13 and '14. Shot the NC State match last summer. Luv the Greenville and Salisbury clubs. Looking forward to the SC match in Columbia and maybe even shooting the NC match as a resident this year!

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That is called an M1 Thumb! anyone who has shot one with any regularity has one of those black thumbnails

Rafe

Yea, That left a mark

 

20141127_133456-1_zps9467cfe2.jpg

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