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Casting Furnace


Jess Nicktem, SASS #47284

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I was thinking about getting into casting my own bullets (and other things) and was looking for opinions on the Lyman Big Dipper. I am not going to have a big operation so something small and economical works well for me.

 

Anyone have one or used one before? Also- what other items do you recommend?

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A dipper pot like the Lyman will be pretty slow to use. 10 pound capacity is also a small pot, you will cast that out in less than an hour. Lyman makes a good set of casting pots ("furnaces", although that is a strange name for them).

 

To use it well, you would need a dipper ladle - one that pours from the subsurface (self skimming). A lead thermometer will be real useful, and of course your molds, handles, and a sprue plate knocking rod (I like a plastic rod made for knocking sprue plates). An old electric hot plate will serve real well to pre-heat your mold so you start casting good bullets right away (think yard sales or thrift stores).

 

But, casting, like loading, is a "how fast do you want to go?" hobby. With the volume of bullets most folks want (maybe 300 to 500 a month), one quickly gets to where most folks "need" a bottom pour, 20 pound capacity melting pot. Especially with 3 to 6 cavity molds that moderate volume casters will use.

 

So, that Big Dipper will be real slow, even after you gain experience with it.

 

As a minimum, I'd not want to run anything less than a Lee 10 pound bottom pour pot, and even that I got so sick of using (starts dripping within first pot or two, and cannot really be fixed to quit dripping), that I run a RCBS 20 pound bottom pour pot (never a drip except if I am running Calcium contaminated lead). Of course, that's about 10 times more costly than the Big Dipper. And yes, that's for casting just for one shooter.

 

So, you can start real small with the Big Dipper, find out if you like and have room for casting, lubing, sizing bullets, storing lead ingots, etc, etc. Then sell off and buy bigger gear. Or, if you like just buying once, buy the bigger gear to start.

 

The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is VERY useful to someone starting to cast. Get it before you buy anything else and read through it. It WILL save you both MONEY and TIME and cut out a lot of FRUSTRATION.

 

And, decide up front how you will lube and size your cast bullets. That generally takes about as much time and investment as the casting equipment.

 

Good luck, GJ

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I started casting with the Lyman big dipper - it didn't take long to upgrade to a bottom pour furnace. Take what you would spend on the dipper & get a bottom pour instead. I am using the Lee Pro 4.

 

Also, use 6 cavity molds. The 2 cavity molds are inexpensive, but take forever to cast anything in quantity. I learned that one from experience as well.

 

Holler

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Jess, in addition to Lyman there are the Lee 20# Pro 4 posts. I use 3 of them for different alloys plus the 5# Lee for pure lead round balls. None of these pots have let me down yet

Additional items:

* Heat source to warm mold

* A ladle

* Tel-Tru thermometer ... http://www.teltru.com/p-272-big-green-egg-primo-grill-dome-kamado-replacement-thermometer-lt225r-5-inch-stem-2001000-degrees-f.aspx

* Flux - pine sawdust works good

* Hickory hammer handle

* Large cotton towel

* Tooth brush to clean mold with HOT soapy water

* Safety glasses

* Workman's leather gloves

* Muffin tin for lead ingots

* Wok spoon with wooden handle to dip out excess alloy in pot

 

Warm the mold to the temperature of the alloy in the pot ... to the same degree so when you do a 5 second pour with the ladle spout 'stuffed' in the sprue hole ... the sprue puddle frosts in 5 to 8 seconds = perfect bullets

Good Luck

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I was thinking about doing this for a spell too.

 

Can't remember why I decided not to.

Probably saw a squirrel or somethin' shiny. :lol:

I think my entrance issue was where to get the lead from.... a reliable source.

 

Anyhow, there's a bunch of the Lee's 20# bottom loaders on Ebay for between $50 and $100.

 

Check it out.

 

 

Waimea

 

:FlagAm:

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Midway USA sells the Lee Pro 4 20 lb. bottom pour, $61 brand new:

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1262645810/lee-pro-4-20-lb-furnace?cm_vc=subv11262645810

 

 

I have one and like it. I have to clean the spout occasionally, but it's not a big deal. Even if you are not casting a large volume, once you use a 6 cavity mold, you won't go back to a double cavity mold. Life is too short. Run 'em hot and fast.

 

I second the recommendation to buy the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, if for no other reason than the list of safety precautions. Even if you are mentored by an experienced caster, it's a great reference.

 

One can still scrounge scrap lead, and some folks have buckets of wheel weights stashed away for swapping. Scrap lead may is not as cheap and plentiful as it used to be, but you can still find enough to make casting worthwhile.

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Hey Jess, been a while!

 

I been casting "boolits" for a while, for me & the Mrs.

I have a couple LEE melting pots, A LEE Pro 20 & a smaller version. They are both bottom pours, or I should say were. Plugged them both with a screw. Why 2? One is for pure lead, the smaller one, and the other for alloys.Wheel weights and such.

I use an RCBS ladle, with the bottom fin ground off, it pours better for me that way. Using the bottom pour feature wasn't the most convienient for me either, and I got tired of them dripping.

I use LEE 2 cavity molds. You'd be surprised how quickly you get a whole bunch of boolits that way, besides, you are just starting out and for what a LEE mold costs with handles, you cant even buy the mold from other brands, and that don't include the handles! They are another $35 bucks. If you want to spend the "big bucks" later, go for it.

SAFETY GLASSES are a must!!!!

Leather gloves,long sleeves, long pants, and shoes should be worn, trust me ;)

A thermometer helps, but at the right temp, your melt will turn a gold color. (If a fair amount of lead, Pb, is present)

Get your self a book on casting, Lyman has a good one, it tells about casting, loading and has a good section of loading data.... In fact a good casting book might be a good first step in starting.

You also will need a space to do your casting, I do a 2 stage deal. Make the ingots in the garage with the door open, and cast in the basement after the "lead" has been cleaned. I do alot of wheel weights, and they can be a nasty, smokey affair.

Don't be afraid to PM me if ya have any questions, I'd be happy to help.

 

Knarley

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Jess,

The other pards had good info, but if you decide to cast make sure you can locate the operation in a well ventilated area, and spend $35.00 to $40.00 to buy an organic vapor respirator rated for lead. These are available from industrial supply houses that cater to contractors. I have been casting off and on for 40 years, and rather heavily since I started cowboy action. Even with good ventilation and a respirator my blood lead level was a high normal at my last blood test. Casting bullets is an enjoyable hobby and can save you money if you shoot much.

 

Good luck,

 

Crusty Steve

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Start out with a Lee bottom pour, a two cavity mold, the Lyman book on casting and a good thermometer. Drop your bullets into a 5 gallon bucket half full of water. Also keep a sponge in a dish wetted with water to keep your mold temps reasonable. You can preheat your molds by resting them on top of the casting furnace while your alloy is coming up to temp. Lube with Lee liquid Alox -just enough to color the bullets. Ta Da! Your a bullet maker. All for less than $150.00.

You will upgrade your setup, 6 cavity molds for example, but you can start slow and cheap. Now, do you know a good source for lead scrap? Value it if you do!

 

Good ventilation!

Good ventilation!

Good ventilation!

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My ventilation method for a bottom pour furnace.

 

Set the furnace next to a sliding glass window..

 

Get a 10" ventilation elbow & base from Lowes for a 90 degree bend. Cut a slot in the elbow to allow movement of the pour lever.

 

Place a 10" fan in the open window, close any signicant gap with cardboard. Put the ventilation base against the fan and the elbow over the pot. Turn the fan on at the same time the pot is turned on. Adjust the height of the furnace to get a match with the fan.

 

This extracts all lead vapor and much of the heat out of the room.

 

Just sayin'

 

AR

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The most sensible (and understandable) description found on the internet:

 

Lead melts at 621 degrees (F). When lead is molten, it releases minute amounts of vapors at a progressive rate as temperatures are increased. Harmful levels of lead vaporization are believed to occur at elevated temperatures above 1800 degrees (F). Only lower temperatures between 700-800 degrees are normally needed to cast lead hobby parts. Most melting equipment sold to hobbyists will not raise temperatures much above 900 degrees. Minimize vaporization by operating melters at the lowest temperature that gives good results. Melt lead in a well ventilated area and exhaust fumes to the outside. Air movement that is sufficient to carry away the wisp of smoke from an extinguished match is generally considered sufficient ventilation.

 

It is also said that the way most hobbyists get lead into their systems is through their mouth. Failure to wash your hands after working with lead is right up front on how it gets to their mouth.

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The most sensible (and understandable) description found on the internet:

 

Lead melts at 621 degrees (F). When lead is molten, it releases minute amounts of vapors at a progressive rate as temperatures are increased. Harmful levels of lead vaporization are believed to occur at elevated temperatures above 1800 degrees (F). ...

 

It is also said that the way most hobbyists get lead into their systems is through their mouth. Failure to wash your hands after working with lead is right up front on how it gets to their mouth.

 

Yep, great summation of the hazards!

 

Ingestion through mouth for casters. You should scrub hair of head and face, as well! And take off the layer of clothes in which you cast so that lead is not dragged into the house. No eating, drinking or smoking while lubrisizing, casting or melting lead, or loading ammo.

 

Inhalation in the case of fired brass cleaning residue (mostly the lead from lead styphnate priming compound).

 

Almost impossible to accumulate significant metallic lead through the skin for elevated blood lead levels. Now, tetra ethyl lead in hi-test gasoline, that was a different and nastier beast altogether.

 

Good luck, GJ

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I was thinking about getting into casting my own bullets (and other things) and was looking for opinions on the Lyman Big Dipper. I am not going to have a big operation so something small and economical works well for me.

 

Anyone have one or used one before? Also- what other items do you recommend?

If you're casting for pistol caliber bullets 250gr or less, you'll be much happier with a bottom pour furnace. If you're casting big bore rifle bullets in the 400-500 grain range, it seems that dipping results in a better bullet. Whichever you get, go with a 20 pound furnace, less need to replenish and the cost difference is not that much.

 

I have both the Lee Pro 4-20 and an RCBS Pro-Melt. It's kind of like comparing a Lee turret press and a Dillon 650, the Lee is inexpensive and works but the RCBS is really worth 4-5x price difference.

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