The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Good folks here to deal with-- https://www.primaryarms.com/Red_Dot_Sights_s/901.htm LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Listening to the news tonight, looks like the ZOMBIES are coming out early. Guess I had better get off the dime and procure some artillery for the onslaught. Youse guys are sure that .223 or 5.56 is big medicine for ZOMBIES or are you just funning me? Head shots for score? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Doggle Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 "Try it. You'll like it." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.T. Pinkerton Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 New Ruger question. Is the bore/chamber hard-chromed? It's a nice plus- Ruger site doesn't say. LG The barrel bore/chamber is in the "black"...no chrome that I can see . Although I believe that part of the bolt (the lockup) is hard-chromed. Remember it is a $600.00 rifle. It is a Ruger...which means if there ever is a problem, just send it back. Wonder if there are any "lighter trigger springs". Think it has at least a 8 lb. trigger (if not slightly more), and it has some stiff hammer/buffer springs, when you pull the slide back. I dont remember my M15 being that hard to pull (course that was a long time ago, and when the adrenline was pumping you never noticed details like that). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Doggle Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 There are any number of after-market trigger group manufactures out there. Timney: http://www.timneytriggers.com, CMC: http://www.cmctriggers.com, Geissele: http://geissele.com, to mention just a few. A new trigger group that will take the pull down to three to four pounds will do wonders to the accuracy of your rifle. They are simple to install, some are just drop in, others require a little more work. They are available from the original manufactures, Brownell's, Mid-Way, and even on Amazon. There are hundreds of threads on AR forums as to which is the best, and dozens of Youtube videos on how to install one. I personally like the Timney. Took about 10 minuets to install, breaks like a glass tube at 3 pounds. A new trigger group is probably the best addition you can make on your new rifle. And also the first addition, before you start turning that six and a half pound rifle into a 15 pound "Tacticool" behemoth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Bob #35998 Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 The barrel bore/chamber is in the "black"...no chrome that I can see . Although I believe that part of the bolt (the lockup) is hard-chromed. Remember it is a $600.00 rifle. It is a Ruger...which means if there ever is a problem, just send it back. Wonder if there are any "lighter trigger springs". Think it has at least a 8 lb. trigger (if not slightly more), and it has some stiff hammer/buffer springs, when you pull the slide back. I dont remember my M15 being that hard to pull (course that was a long time ago, and when the adrenline was pumping you never noticed details like that). Well the problem was you had an M15. They made significant improvements in the M16. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uno Mas SASS #80082 Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Reduced power AR-15 springs: http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/triggers-parts/trigger-hardware/trigger-springs/ar-15-reduced-power-spring-kit-prod7582.aspx NOT recommended for self-defense firearms where reliability is absolutely essential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 The barrel bore/chamber is in the "black"...no chrome that I can see . Although I believe that part of the bolt (the lockup) is hard-chromed. Remember it is a $600.00 rifle. It is a Ruger...which means if there ever is a problem, just send it back. Wonder if there are any "lighter trigger springs". Think it has at least a 8 lb. trigger (if not slightly more), and it has some stiff hammer/buffer springs, when you pull the slide back. I dont remember my M15 being that hard to pull (course that was a long time ago, and when the adrenline was pumping you never noticed details like that). Thank you JT for the info Most of the t'pull issue is in the angle of the hammer's full-cock notch. Sounds like Ruger has done good----AGAIN. LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.T. Pinkerton Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Well the problem was you had an M15. They made significant improvements in the M16. The one that I had was a "short version" of the M16. It had a collapsible stock, forward assist, short barrel with a long suppressor on it. It ran really well, if you kept it well oiled. It was not the original "stoner AR" without the forward assist. I will probably just shoot a few thru the Ruger, and see if the springs "relax" a bit....dont want a misfire when the zombies attack. If they dont, then I will look into some lighter springs. Think this is almost like a 1911...it appears that springs are easily available to tune it a bit. It also appears that the trigger group comes apart very similar to that of the M1 carbine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 Magpuls rock..... Unless Ruger did what they did with the Mini 14 which won't take AR15 mags. I just don't see thatRuger is trying to create a market. They're just entering an existing one. Sme of us wish they would have done it before now. Just like the SR556 the AR556 takes standard AR mags. GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Bob #35998 Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 The one that I had was a "short version" of the M16. It had a collapsible stock, forward assist, short barrel with a long suppressor on it. It ran really well, if you kept it well oiled. It was not the original "stoner AR" without the forward assist. I will probably just shoot a few thru the Ruger, and see if the springs "relax" a bit....dont want a misfire when the zombies attack. If they dont, then I will look into some lighter springs. Think this is almost like a 1911...it appears that springs are easily available to tune it a bit. It also appears that the trigger group comes apart very similar to that of the M1 carbine. Ahh, I see. That was the CAR-15. Had one too for awhile. Nice gun. Kind of a precursor to today's M4. There is a difference in the buffer spring on today's ARs. It was beefed up to ensure the bolt goes into battery, lessening the need for the bolt assist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Har! My Garand don't need no steenkin bolt assist. It can snap your thumb all by itself. Got bigger brass too. p.s. But it is virtual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steel-eye Steve SASS #40674 Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Har! My Garand don't need no steenkin bolt assist. It can snap your thumb all by itself. Got bigger brass too. p.s. But it is virtual. The M1 does have a bolt assist, the charging handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Bob #35998 Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 The M1 does have a bolt assist, the charging handle. Yup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Har! My Garand don't need no steenkin bolt assist. It can snap your thumb all by itself. Got bigger brass too. p.s. But it is virtual. And your THUMB, is the buffer. LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 HUH! And all this time I thought it was the Operating Rod, Operating Rod Catch and Follower interface.... Just goes to show you that you can't trust everything SSgt Buxton tells you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 HUH! And all this time I thought it was the Operating Rod, Operating Rod Catch and Follower interface.... Just goes to show you that you can't trust everything SSgt Buxton tells you. Improvisation. GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Bob #35998 Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 HUH! And all this time I thought it was the Operating Rod, Operating Rod Catch and Follower interface.... Just goes to show you that you can't trust everything SSgt Buxton tells you. Operating rod handle officially. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Yeah but, can the AR bite your thumb like an M1. I think not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Bob #35998 Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Yeah but, can the AR bite your thumb like an M1. I think not. It can pinch the web of your hand like the dickens when you're reassembling it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Just don't clean it or disassemble it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Scatterbrain Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Har! My Garand don't need no steenkin bolt assist. Neither does the AR. It was added at the army's insistence, over Eugene Stoner's objections. And many people will tell you that if you go pounding on the forward assist you may make a bad situation much worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 I know nothing. I have no experience with a bolt assist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 When doing a detail strip and clean, does one need to remove the gas key and clean it? Does one ever need to remove the gas key to clean it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Doggle Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 No, and Hell No. A gas key should be staked to the bolt and not be removable by mortals such as we. They can, and I'm sure some will say should be, cleaned with a pipe cleaner and a bit of your favorite solvent. A Q-tip works pretty well too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Scatterbrain Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 No, and Hell No. A gas key should be staked to the bolt and not be removable by mortals such as we. They can, and I'm sure some will say should be, cleaned with a pipe cleaner and a bit of your favorite solvent. I was just a few seconds to slow. I use those long wooden-handled cotton swabs for this: alot of people will tell you not to do that, because if you get a bit of cotton stuck in there it can muck things up and be very difficult to fish out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 So, I'm guessing that there is nothing inside the key itself that needs to be cleaned? I have no idea of what they look like inside. I can see cleaning the tube with, say a clean pipe cleaner and let it go at that. Maybe some solvent sprayed into the tube? But removing the bolt and cleaning the bolt carrier should take care of that, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uno Mas SASS #80082 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Badg; You get a glass martini olive jar (I'll betcha got hundreds) - a little bigger than the BCG. Then fill it 2/3 with Hoppes #9. Drop the BCG in, put the lid on, shake gently, and go off to annoy someone on the web. Come back in 1-4 hours, and everything is nicely softenened. Take it apart, wipe it clean, inspect, lightly lube with an oily rag and reassembled. Then get it dirty again as soon as possible. BTW, an AR-15 Whiz recommends the gas tube be cleaned with denatured alcohol before shooting for the first time. THEN YOU LEAVE IT THE HELL ALONE. (emphasis his) Apparently, the barrel wears out long before the tube needs cleaning. But carbonizing the lube/preservative/cleaner in the tube captures contaminants. I'm going to try that with my next EBR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Bob #35998 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Get some of these 10 rounders for your bench shooting. You won't have that big 30rd mag getting in the way and you won't be tempted to blast 20 rounds downrange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Badger-Carb cleaner is a 'friend' of the AR platform. LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Thank for the tips guys. Perhaps I should get a note book and start writing some of this down. One more question and then I will quit pestering you guys. I really do appreciate you taking the time to educate me. My question: Is the gas key just a hole that allows gas into the bolt carrier to actuate the action, Or is there a chamber under the two screws.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 Thank for the tips guys. Perhaps I should get a note book and start writing some of this down. One more question and then I will quit pestering you guys. I really do appreciate you taking the time to educate me. My question: Is the gas key just a hole that allows gas into the bolt carrier to actuate the action, Or is there a chamber under the two screws.? Pard... I don't get it? The videos posted explain all this. GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 I have never seen the inside of one. Seeing and hearing are different with me. All of the demo that I have seen show it attached to the bolt carrier. Nothing about what it looks like underneath. Did I miss something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 The gas key is a passage way is all. Those vids will explain it for you. Keep ask'n questions-Gunner's brain needs something to do- LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_2_130/165511_How_the_Piston_in_your_DI_AR_works.html GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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