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Ruger's new AR556 - gas impingement


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Listening to the news tonight, looks like the ZOMBIES are coming out early.

Guess I had better get off the dime and procure some artillery for the onslaught.

 

Youse guys are sure that .223 or 5.56 is big medicine for ZOMBIES or are you

just funning me? Head shots for score?

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New Ruger question.

Is the bore/chamber hard-chromed?

It's a nice plus- Ruger site doesn't say.

LG

The barrel bore/chamber is in the "black"...no chrome that I can see :( . Although I believe that part of the bolt (the lockup) is hard-chromed. Remember it is a $600.00 rifle. <_<:D It is a Ruger...which means if there ever is a problem, just send it back. Wonder if there are any "lighter trigger springs". Think it has at least a 8 lb. trigger (if not slightly more), and it has some stiff hammer/buffer springs, when you pull the slide back. I dont remember my M15 being that hard to pull (course that was a long time ago, and when the adrenline was pumping you never noticed details like that).

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There are any number of after-market trigger group manufactures out there. Timney: http://www.timneytriggers.com, CMC: http://www.cmctriggers.com, Geissele: http://geissele.com, to mention just a few. A new trigger group that will take the pull down to three to four pounds will do wonders to the accuracy of your rifle. They are simple to install, some are just drop in, others require a little more work. They are available from the original manufactures, Brownell's, Mid-Way, and even on Amazon. There are hundreds of threads on AR forums as to which is the best, and dozens of Youtube videos on how to install one. I personally like the Timney. Took about 10 minuets to install, breaks like a glass tube at 3 pounds.

 

A new trigger group is probably the best addition you can make on your new rifle. And also the first addition, before you start turning that six and a half pound rifle into a 15 pound "Tacticool" behemoth.

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The barrel bore/chamber is in the "black"...no chrome that I can see :( . Although I believe that part of the bolt (the lockup) is hard-chromed. Remember it is a $600.00 rifle. <_<:D It is a Ruger...which means if there ever is a problem, just send it back. Wonder if there are any "lighter trigger springs". Think it has at least a 8 lb. trigger (if not slightly more), and it has some stiff hammer/buffer springs, when you pull the slide back. I dont remember my M15 being that hard to pull (course that was a long time ago, and when the adrenline was pumping you never noticed details like that).

 

Well the problem was you had an M15. They made significant improvements in the M16. :D;)
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Reduced power AR-15 springs:

 

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/triggers-parts/trigger-hardware/trigger-springs/ar-15-reduced-power-spring-kit-prod7582.aspx

 

NOT recommended for self-defense firearms where reliability is absolutely essential.

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The barrel bore/chamber is in the "black"...no chrome that I can see :( . Although I believe that part of the bolt (the lockup) is hard-chromed. Remember it is a $600.00 rifle. <_<:D It is a Ruger...which means if there ever is a problem, just send it back. Wonder if there are any "lighter trigger springs". Think it has at least a 8 lb. trigger (if not slightly more), and it has some stiff hammer/buffer springs, when you pull the slide back. I dont remember my M15 being that hard to pull (course that was a long time ago, and when the adrenline was pumping you never noticed details like that).

Thank you JT for the info :excl:

Most of the t'pull issue is in the angle of the hammer's full-cock notch.

Sounds like Ruger has done good----AGAIN.

LG

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Well the problem was you had an M15. They made significant improvements in the M16. :D;)

The one that I had was a "short version" of the M16. It had a collapsible stock, forward assist, short barrel with a long suppressor on it. It ran really well, if you kept it well oiled. :D It was not the original "stoner AR" without the forward assist.

 

I will probably just shoot a few thru the Ruger, and see if the springs "relax" a bit....dont want a misfire when the zombies attack. If they dont, then I will look into some lighter springs. Think this is almost like a 1911...it appears that springs are easily available to tune it a bit. It also appears that the trigger group comes apart very similar to that of the M1 carbine.

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Magpuls rock..... Unless Ruger did what they did with the Mini 14 which won't take AR15 mags. :angry:

I just don't see thatRuger is trying to create a market. They're just entering an existing one. Sme of us wish they would have done it before now.

Just like the SR556 the AR556 takes standard AR mags.

 

GG

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The one that I had was a "short version" of the M16. It had a collapsible stock, forward assist, short barrel with a long suppressor on it. It ran really well, if you kept it well oiled. :D It was not the original "stoner AR" without the forward assist.

 

I will probably just shoot a few thru the Ruger, and see if the springs "relax" a bit....dont want a misfire when the zombies attack. If they dont, then I will look into some lighter springs. Think this is almost like a 1911...it appears that springs are easily available to tune it a bit. It also appears that the trigger group comes apart very similar to that of the M1 carbine.

Ahh, I see. That was the CAR-15. Had one too for awhile. Nice gun. Kind of a precursor to today's M4. There is a difference in the buffer spring on today's ARs. It was beefed up to ensure the bolt goes into battery, lessening the need for the bolt assist.
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The M1 does have a bolt assist, the charging handle.

Yup.

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HUH! And all this time I thought it was the Operating Rod, Operating Rod Catch and Follower interface....

 

Just goes to show you that you can't trust everything SSgt Buxton tells you. :)

Improvisation.

 

GG

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HUH! And all this time I thought it was the Operating Rod, Operating Rod Catch and Follower interface....

 

Just goes to show you that you can't trust everything SSgt Buxton tells you. :)

Operating rod handle officially.

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Yeah but, can the AR bite your thumb like an M1. I think not.

It can pinch the web of your hand like the dickens when you're reassembling it. :D

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Har! My Garand don't need no steenkin bolt assist.

Neither does the AR. It was added at the army's insistence, over Eugene Stoner's objections. And many people will tell you that if you go pounding on the forward assist you may make a bad situation much worse.

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No, and Hell No.

 

A gas key should be staked to the bolt and not be removable by mortals such as we. They can, and I'm sure some will say should be, cleaned with a pipe cleaner and a bit of your favorite solvent. A Q-tip works pretty well too.

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No, and Hell No.

 

A gas key should be staked to the bolt and not be removable by mortals such as we. They can, and I'm sure some will say should be, cleaned with a pipe cleaner and a bit of your favorite solvent.

I was just a few seconds to slow.

 

I use those long wooden-handled cotton swabs for this: alot of people will tell you not to do that, because if you get a bit of cotton stuck in there it can muck things up and be very difficult to fish out.

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So, I'm guessing that there is nothing inside the key itself that needs to be cleaned?

I have no idea of what they look like inside. I can see cleaning the tube with, say a

clean pipe cleaner and let it go at that. Maybe some solvent sprayed into the tube?

 

But removing the bolt and cleaning the bolt carrier should take care of that, correct?

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Badg;

 

You get a glass martini olive jar (I'll betcha got hundreds) - a little bigger than the BCG. Then fill it 2/3 with Hoppes #9. Drop the BCG in, put the lid on, shake gently, and go off to annoy someone on the web. Come back in 1-4 hours, and everything is nicely softenened. Take it apart, wipe it clean, inspect, lightly lube with an oily rag and reassembled. Then get it dirty again as soon as possible.

 

BTW, an AR-15 Whiz recommends the gas tube be cleaned with denatured alcohol before shooting for the first time. THEN YOU LEAVE IT THE HELL ALONE. (emphasis his) Apparently, the barrel wears out long before the tube needs cleaning. But carbonizing the lube/preservative/cleaner in the tube captures contaminants. I'm going to try that with my next EBR.

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Get some of these 10 rounders for your bench shooting. You won't have that big 30rd mag getting in the way and you won't be tempted to blast 20 rounds downrange. ;)

765895.jpg

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Thank for the tips guys. Perhaps I should get a note book and start writing some of this down.

 

One more question and then I will quit pestering you guys. I really do appreciate you taking the

time to educate me.

 

My question: Is the gas key just a hole that allows gas into the bolt carrier to actuate the action,

Or is there a chamber under the two screws.?

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Thank for the tips guys. Perhaps I should get a note book and start writing some of this down.

 

One more question and then I will quit pestering you guys. I really do appreciate you taking the

time to educate me.

 

My question: Is the gas key just a hole that allows gas into the bolt carrier to actuate the action,

Or is there a chamber under the two screws.?

Pard... I don't get it? The videos posted explain all this.

 

GG

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I have never seen the inside of one. Seeing and hearing are different with me.

All of the demo that I have seen show it attached to the bolt carrier. Nothing

about what it looks like underneath. Did I miss something?

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