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Bang-bangs not covered


Paden

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Howdy,

 

I found out that my homeowners insurance does not cover my guns. Where do I look for coverage?

Thanks.

 

Paden

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Get a giant safe (something over 1250 lbs), with minimum 10ga walls (fire axe proof),and bolt it to through your concrete pad, make sure it's fireproofed at least 90 minutes, and insure the safe. Put an alarm on your house, keep your guns in the safe, and stop worrying.

 

Something like this one here will do the job. It has 3/16" thick walls, 1/2" steel on the door, a relocker, and weighs far too much to be stolen, and is built way to thick to allow someone entrance before the police respond to the alarm. Mine is bolted directly through the foundation of my house.

 

I don't really want to list my gun collection to anybody, and that includes insurance companies. Gun registries are unconstitutional.

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Get a giant safe (something over 1250 lbs), with minimum 10ga walls (fire axe proof),and bolt it to through your concrete pad, make sure it's fireproofed at least 90 minutes, and insure the safe. Put an alarm on your house, keep your guns in the safe, and stop worrying.

 

Something like this one here will do the job. It has 3/16" thick walls, 1/2" steel on the door, a relocker, and weighs far too much to be stolen, and is built way to thick to allow someone entrance before the police respond to the alarm. Mine is bolted directly through the foundation of my house.

 

I don't really want to list my gun collection to anybody, and that includes insurance companies. Gun registries are unconstitutional.

 

+1

 

Seperate NRA gun insurance or a "GOOD" safe... or both.

 

Anything over $ X amount, my home owners insurance wanted pictures and serial numbers. I just wasn't willing to give them serial numbers just yet.

I do have a complete listing with photos, serial numbers, purchase amount "recipts" and Values in a safe place.

This list has both current guns I own and guns I've sold.

 

Liberty has a motion sensor available that will call or text you if it's being tampered with.

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When researching for my safe purchase I found out that there is fire rating and burglar/break-in rating. While the safes had good fire ratings they could easily be broke into by using a circular saw with a metal cutting blade. What you have is a layer of 10 guage steel on the outside. An inch or so of gypsum for fire resistance, and then another layer of thin metal. Insurance companies have been known to ask what is the break-in rating for the safe.

 

I saw a video on the net of a guy cutting into the side of a safe like butter. It didn't take long. I settled on one with thicker steel and an inch of concrete.

The doors are the trick for convincing you the safe is secure. Investigate how the box is built.

 

Ike

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Watch out on fire ratings!

Some safes will say something like "x hours at 300-something degrees". Folks, that's not even ignition point for combustibles! A good, cookin' house fire will be well past 1000 degrees, (1200-1500, if I correctly remember what one of my firefighter buddies said).

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When researching for my safe purchase I found out that there is fire rating and burglar/break-in rating. While the safes had good fire ratings they could easily be broke into by using a circular saw with a metal cutting blade. What you have is a layer of 10 guage steel on the outside. An inch or so of gypsum for fire resistance, and then another layer of thin metal. Insurance companies have been known to ask what is the break-in rating for the safe.

 

I saw a video on the net of a guy cutting into the side of a safe like butter. It didn't take long. I settled on one with thicker steel and an inch of concrete.

The doors are the trick for convincing you the safe is secure. Investigate how the box is built.

 

Ike

 

Check the Summit Denali I gave the link to above - it's got 3/16" steel walls for starters.

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When researching for my safe purchase I found out that there is fire rating and burglar/break-in rating. While the safes had good fire ratings they could easily be broke into by using a circular saw with a metal cutting blade. What you have is a layer of 10 guage steel on the outside. An inch or so of gypsum for fire resistance, and then another layer of thin metal. Insurance companies have been known to ask what is the break-in rating for the safe.

 

I saw a video on the net of a guy cutting into the side of a safe like butter. It didn't take long. I settled on one with thicker steel and an inch of concrete.

The doors are the trick for convincing you the safe is secure. Investigate how the box is built.

 

Ike

I am not aware of any safes with good fire ratings that can be broken into with a circle saw. Can you give some examples? My own studies show that when you get to a certain quality of safe, it's going to take someone who knows what they're doing and who has drawings for the safe hours to get in. After that, fire ratings are what differentiates them. I didn't notice any safes with decent fire ratings that weren't in that upper echelon of burglar protection. It might just be that the way I was looking skipped over that class of safes. But it seemed to me that the good fire rating was harder to achieve.

 

And for the original question, dump your homeowners insurance and get USAA if you can. They automatically cover your firearms up to $10,000. I have them and I got an armscare plus policy from the NRA because it was so cheap and the armscare policy covers the guns even when you're away from home.

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Howdy,

On Rocket City Rednecks they built a tornado shelter out of concrete blocks with rebar

going down thru the blocks then poured concrete thru the holes.

They showed a 2x4 going 120 mph and went right thru a standard building.

Then another 2x4 shattered into toothpicks hitting the shelter.

Hardly a mark on the shelter.

See flying building materials do a majority of the tornado damage.

Now this could make a nice little safe with a good door....

And putting it in a basement could work.

Im thinkin right under a window to expedite the concrete work.

Best

CR

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Howdy,

On Rocket City Rednecks they built a tornado shelter out of concrete blocks with rebar

going down thru the blocks then poured concrete thru the holes.

They showed a 2x4 going 120 mph and went right thru a standard building.

Then another 2x4 shattered into toothpicks hitting the shelter.

Hardly a mark on the shelter.

See flying building materials do a majority of the tornado damage.

Now this could make a nice little safe with a good door....

And putting it in a basement could work.

Im thinkin right under a window to expedite the concrete work.

Best

CR

 

That's totally insane - and gawd do I like it!

 

If you go to that trouble, spring for a vault door from Graffunder. You're basically talking about building a bank vault.

 

EDIT: Link added.

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This is my experience for a few years ago:

 

I owned a top of the line Fort Knox safe and a high end National safe with the "best" fire proofing. In 2012 my house was burned to the ground in a forest fire. Well the safe handles and combination lock were gone and we had to cut them open. We used a plasma cutter to cut off the bottom and when we got inside all the fireproofing (dry wall) was powder, all the guns were reduced to only iron. The aluminium framed guns were melted around the barrel. Even had my wife's carry gun cook off and put a hole through the safe wall.

 

I had a database with all the information about my collections and turned it over to the insurance company. They said since the guns were not stolen but were destroyed in the fire they would pay full value and they did to my satisfaction.

 

Marshal Jack

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Fire safes are often lined with typ x drywall under the carpet

 

Fire and heat will still breach the door gaps, some damage will accrue but they should not be ruined in a fire tended to in a timely manner

Badddd fires were listed above

 

Inside my non fire proof Fort Knox safe I have a small document fire proof safe for documents

 

Look at how your gun safe door seales when it closes, no seal..........

Fireman water hose would even breach the safe

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Here is some information that was distributed around our club recently by one of our dedicated and knowledgeable members...

 

 

"I believe all of our fellow cowboy action shooters can benefit from the policy offered by Eastern Insurance and their Vice President, Jack Richardson. He has been great getting me information, answering questions, and starting my policy.

 

Highlights:

 

1. Eastern's policies for gun owners, collectors, and competitors are backed by Chubb and Hanover, two robust insurance companies.

 

2. The "Unscheduled Blanket Coverage" is the policy that I believe might serve most of our needs best:

 

•Other than individual guns worth $10,000 or more, no guns have to be scheduled, meaning no serial numbers or pictures or descriptions need to be filed with Eastern

 

•In the event of theft (from home, car, motel, etc.) Eastern does require that the police be called and that a police report be filed.

 

•In the event of theft (from home, car, motel, etc.) Eastern does require that the police be called and that a police report be filed.

 

•Eastern charges a $100 deductible per occurrence (per event), NOT per gun.

 

•The annual cost of this policy is $125 for $35,000 coverage!

 

3. Procedures to Follow:

 

 

If any cowboy/cowgirl suspects they live in an earthquake zone, they may receive a quote back that says "$25,000 coverage." I turned down the earthquake coverage by writing "exclude earthquake coverage" at the bottom of the questionnaire, and my policy returned to the $35,000 coverage level.

 

 

•Call Jack at 1-800-545-9326 ext.59398 and ask him to email you his questionnaire. After he reviews the questionnaire (mine took two minutes) he will bind the policy and the insurance takes effect immediately. (Jack is south of Boston, so adapt for eastern time zone phone calls.)

 

 

While it is pathetic that any of us should need protection of this type, it strikes me that Eastern's policy costing so little for so much coverage is an affordable protection."

 

 

Fillmore

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I saw this and went to USAA to check. My policy simply says "Personal belongings refers to all of your belongings and household goods." I can't find any mention of firearms, so I may need to check a little further, but it sounds as though they are covered. Then I need to do a realistic assessment to determine whether our current coverage amount is enough. I think so, but I'm not sure.

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I saw this and went to USAA to check. My policy simply says "Personal belongings refers to all of your belongings and household goods." I can't find any mention of firearms, so I may need to check a little further, but it sounds as though they are covered. Then I need to do a realistic assessment to determine whether our current coverage amount is enough. I think so, but I'm not sure.

My USAA coverage (45 years) needed a seperate rider. Don't have much especially valuable, it was just the aggregate total.

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Here in Colorado, in the last two years or so we have had two major fires, Waldo Canyon fire and the Black Forest fire.

From what I have heard from gun owners, if the house burned to the ground, there were few if any guns that survived even in fire rated safes.

 

I have heard that these two fires generated temperatures in the burning houses of 1500 to 2000 degrees.

The guns were destroyed.

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