Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Non SASS guns - Flintlocks (picture heavy)


guitar_slinger

Recommended Posts

Seemed there was a little interest in another thread. Hope I'm not breaking rules. Moderators, if this is against rules, please delete this thread. - Guitar Slinger

 

These are photos of a couple of the more recent flintlock rifles I've built. It's a hobby and I don't build them to sell (these are not for sale and are currently in the rotation of my competition firearms).

 

 

Early Colonial Fowler:

.62cal smoothbore (20ga). Cherry Wood. 46" barrel.

P7130001.jpg

 

P7130003.jpg

 

P7130010.jpg

 

 

Late 1700's Pennsylvania Style Rifle

.40 cal rifled. curly maple stock, 39" barrel.

9751DE0D-DCD0-4519-81ED-E72B3AE00CFA_zps

 

IMG_0348.jpg

 

 

IMG_0351.jpg

 

 

 

Mid 1700's (1750's) Transitional Kentucky

.58 cal Rifled, maple stock. 38" barrel

 

PA020006.jpg

 

PA020009.jpg

 

PA020014.jpg

 

PA020018.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great looking' rifles. Good job!! They look like works of art. I'm impressed since I would never have the patience to do that.

 

Rye ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys, thanks. Lots of hours work in those. It does give me something to do during those long winter months when its too cold to shoot and not enough ice to fish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is against the rules to make me drool this early in the morning. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great job. You should put those up on the Wild West Arts forum also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You said you build them, what raw components do you start out with?

Components

  • block of wood (sometimes will use a rough shaped stock blank to save about 50 hours of time turning a block into sawdust)
  • I buy most of the metal parts, I don't have the technology or skill to forge a barrel myself and I have made triggers and locks, it's far easier and more effective to buy than build those parts.
  • barrel
  • lock
  • brass furniture in cast form Side Plate, butt plate, nose cap (when used), toe plates (when used), trigger guard, inlays (if I'm feeling too lazy to cut out my own)
  • (some rifles have iron mountings)
  • triggers

 

From there, I fit the pieces onto the wood and shape it.

Drill the ramrod hole (if it's not already drilled in a rough cut stock blank, sometimes they will have it pre-drilled which is nice).

I make the sights, the under lugs, sometimes the thimbles (not on all rifles since I can buy them for a couple bucks each).

I use 1/16" steel pins to hold barrel to wood (dovetail under lug in barrel, drill through stock, under lug, other side of stock)

Cut the dovetails for the sights and under lugs & attach barrel to stock

drill and tap the touch hole and insert liner (stainless steel or AMPCO depending on what I have at the time).

final shape stock after major parts are inlet,

add any decorative inlays (star in cheek piece, etc.)

final sand

do any carving the rifle requires

one more light final sand (800 or finer grit)

stain (variety of stains, i prefer alcohol based dye)

apply finish (I normally use Tung Oil).

reassemble

shoot.

 

Truly a labor of love. considering I put about 150-200 hours in a rifle, to sell one I'd either be working really cheap or looking for rich rifle buyers. I've sold a few to fuel parts for others. Mostly, I build them to shoot and because I enjoy doing it. Inletting a lock and barrel into a piece of curly maple is great stress relief. You cannot think of anything else while concentrating on that task.

 

Guitar Slinger

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is against the rules to make me drool this early in the morning. :D

Yeah, it dilutes his coffee. :lol:

 

I spent 12 years working for The Flintlock at Hobby City in Anaheim and saw a lot of very fine hand made long rifles. Yours are better than most and as good as some of the best.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm working on a percussion kit gun, and you're right about the stress relief.

 

It's also a love/hate relationship. Working with some of the soft brass parts, esp. the trigger guard, can really frustrate you. Sanding final curves and edges on the stock to get just the right shape is also an exercise in humility. But when it's done, I'll have something to be proud of.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm working on a percussion kit gun, and you're right about the stress relief.

 

It's also a love/hate relationship. Working with some of the soft brass parts, esp. the trigger guard, can really frustrate you. Sanding final curves and edges on the stock to get just the right shape is also an exercise in humility. But when it's done, I'll have something to be proud of.

Proud you will be. Would love to see pics when done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beautiful guns. How do you finish them?

 

Modern finishes or something period? They look great!

A little of both. I use alcohol based stain (dye actually) because it doesn't have as many solids to cover the grain as most of the modern wood finish stains (think Minwax). For the finish, I have been using Tung Oil for years. It's not exactly a period finish but looks pretty close. Many of the old guns were finished in shellac or a resin based varnish. Lots of guys use boiled linseed oil but I just don't like it. Takes forever to dry and just doesn't look like the finish remaining on any of the originals I've had the pleasure to handle and take apart.

 

I also use sandpaper down to 800 grit and that is not exactly period correct either. many used scrapers, glass, and sharkskin has even been seen in estate inventories of old time gunmakers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The lock was a from a kit by Cochrane. The finish is with Aqua Fortis (nitric acid) stain which darkens when you wave a salamander (red hot iron) over the stained wood. Linseed oil over that.

Nice work indeed.

 

You use it for hunting, target shooting, competition?

 

 

I've had mixed results with Aqua Fortis. On some Maple, the wood takes a greenish color under tone. Not all, but enough that it can be a problem. It is fun though to run the hot iron bar over the stock and watch it turn color.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aqua fortis has to be neutralized with baking soda else it may create some problems. For bringing out the figure its hard to beat chromium trioxide but its kinda hazardous and likewise has to be neutralized.. There are better ways or just as good....I don't use either anymore.

 

John Bivins has done extensive writing on stains and finishes of rifles during and after the Golden Age.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love the Southern rifles. I'll have to dig up some photos of some of the ones I've built.

 

Nice work on that gun even though you put the lock on the wrong side. ;):lol::D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.