McCandless Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 I just curious. I have many a Colt-type percussion pistol. Dragoons, '51's (and their assorted variants), and 1860s. I do not shoot them in competition, there I use Ruger Old Armies and used to shoot Remingtons. But, if I was to get the hankering to shoot some of these wall decorators, the wedge makes me go hmmmmmmmmm... All of these Colt-type pistoles I bought used, and some of them are quite marred around the wedges where folks seem to be hammering the wedges in and out. And, apparently missing at times! But, I've also read where competitors simply have their wedges so they pop in and out with finger pressure, (and wedge screw left out.) So, I have to ask. How did y'all accomplish that. I see many of my wedges with the wedge spring missing... is that breakage or intentional? I've got an 1860 where the wedge has been modified, (little bump on the leading edge of the spring rounded, and the sides of the wedge shaved....) Is that what y'all are doing?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowdy Yates, SASS #141 Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 I fit wedges so that a tap is required to start the removal and then work it out by hand. This tap is accomplished with the same stag horn tool that I use for seating the caps. Never use a metal instrument to tap out a wedge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Dude, SASS # 51223 Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 The best source for what you desire is Pettifogger's detailed writings on the tuning of Uberti & pieta C&B Revolvers. You may find this at CAS city in the Dark Arts Library. All of my Competition C&B Colt clone Revolvers have the barrel/Arbor wedge fitted. I leave the spring & retainer screw for security and adjust the wedge for a fit, that allows for a slight pressure for the removal. I use my antler cap pusher butt, a slight tap and the wedge spring is disengaged. I can then finger remove the wedge. Wedge adjustment is a very important part of the C&B tuning process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairie Dawg, SASS #50329 Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Wedge-fitting starts on page 15. http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_Two.pdf --Dawg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Bullweed Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 I shoot conversion cylinder in two Pietta 1851 Civilian .44s and have the remove the wedges for every load/unload task. I try to not fully remove the wedge from the barrel assembly. I removed the spur on the end of the wedge to allow easier reinsertion if I do pull the wedge out completely (happens about once every 10-12 stages). I use my wooden dowel that I use to load the lever magazine to start the wedges from fully-seated. I am sure that others do all of this much better, but ti seems to work okay for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ol Number4 Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 McC., Fitting the wedge is the first step I di in tuning any of the wedgy style pistols, All else drives off the barrel/cylinder fit!! I wouldn't even start to fit/time the hand and bolt without having the barrel fit at its best, and that means a light tap on the nose of the wedge with a wooden screwdriver handle, or sometimes just a severe push with my thumb. Ol' #4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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