Primitive Archery Hunting.

[Dorado]

I'm a bit curious about trying primitive bow hunting. I had one as a kid and got pretty good with it and I'd like to start again.

I've been looking at different long and recurve bows. Most of what I've found are in the $500 range at Cabela's and the like. I don't know where else to look. I know I can get better bows for less elsewhere but I don't know what to look for or even what to ask. I'd like any advice I can get.

 

Here's what I know so far.

It seems that 50 to 60# draw weight is most common. I'm looking at the 60# as I'd like to use it on deer and hog.

Recurves offer a more compact design while still giving the same power and pull length as long bow.

I don't like compound bows.

 

I'd like to read more on it but I don't know where to begin.

It'll be quite a while before I can afford a decent bow, medical bills and all. But I can still research while I'm down and figure out what's what. I've tried several compound bows but I don't care for them. I did like my longbow I had as a kid.

 

Any info is appreciated.

[Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967]

One word: Ebay.

 

As much as we'd all like new and shiny, bows tend to not hold their value, and many hunters cycle through 'em. I've bought bows I'd never even be able to think of buying new for very reasonable costs.

 

Might take a peek at Craigslist, too....

[Bugs Bonney SASS # 10171]

I've picked up a bow or two over the years on ebay. Back in the day (before compound bows) the most popular draw weight was 45 lbs. I've shot clean through deer with a 50 lbs. bow on several occasions. Arrow passed through the chest and was laying on the ground on the other side. It is easier to lean to shoot well with a lighter draw weight and you can move to a heavier bow once you have built up the strength of your arms shoulders and back.

For me the most important thing is to practice often. I used to use Howard Hills method of a dozen carefully shot arrows every day 365 days a year. Of course you will miss some days but the intent is to shoot every day. Learn your range limit, that is the range that is the maximum that you can put ten arrows out of ten into a 10 inch circle every time. Then mark trees or whatever at that range from your stand and do not shoot at deer outside that range.

[Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001]

the first thing , are you right or left handed ?

if you are a southpaw , bows will be harder to find .

Draw weight is mesured at a 28in draw , I draw 31in and the 55 lb bow actuley comes in at 77 lbs

 

It will BLOW right through a deer , NO problem

 

Craigslist , E-bay , gun shows , all can have them at times

 

CB (have FUN )

[Subdeacon Joe]

I've had several Martin longbows and was very pleased with the. And have shot some of their recurves. Bear also makes a good product.

[DocWard]

You might spend some time looking here:

 

http://www.3riversarchery.com/

[Badlands Bob #61228]

I had a Bear #45 recurved bow that was a pleasure to shoot and would take out a deer at 40 yards with no problem.

[Yul Lose]

I prefer a recurve for hunting. I've used a compound but there is just something about a nice well made recurve that draws me to them. My wife surprised me with a Bear archery Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation commemorative bow a number of years ago and it is like an old friend. They are available on Ebay at times and I can't say enough good things about that bow. Shooting that bow became like an addiction. I found myself out on my little range sometimes 5 or 6 times a day just slinging arrows. I hope you find a bow you love.

[Brother King, SASS #69031]

I don't know all there is to know about shooting traditional bows, but over the last 35 years I've been fortunate enough to kill 22 of the North American 28 with either a recurve or a longbow. Obviously I love guns, but I've never killed a big game animal with one. Nor have I ever shot a compound bow except goofing off at a range.

 

Years ago we owned Bighorn Bowhunting Company and made custom recurves and longbows. The traditional bow has many fine custom bow makers now. You would do well to contact Tom, Danny or TC Clum at Rocky Mountain Specialty Gear in Arvada CO. They have one of the finest collections in the US of new and used stick bows. https://www.rmsgear.com/store/pc/index_new.asp

 

The mystery of intuitive or instinctive shooting is an art that must be practiced to become proficient. Most people do best when starting with a bow weight they can handle and the recurve is definitely easier to shoot than the longbow. Both are deadly in the hands of a well-practiced bow hand. There are many advantages in the woods to the simple, no frills stick bow.

 

I'm shooting a Friday night league to be ready for the mule deer rut later next month out in the Cheyenne river bottom east of Rapid City SD.

 

PM me if you'd like more info. Glad to help you get started.

[Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967]

Boy.... memories....

 

One that I truly miss is the "pencil sharpener" fragrance that would always greet you as soon as you opened the door to an archery shop. Buying a gross of cedar shafts... deciding on left or right wing feathers for fletching... personalizing arrows with crest stripes and colors of fletches (I was partial to yellow with a black cock and a single black crest stripe)... sharpening broadheads that would be cemented on...

 

Sitting in my recliner gazing at an ancient Bitzenburger atop a not-quite-as-ancient stereo speaker, and a nearly 40-year old Bear Grizzly leaning against a bookcase...

 

With all due respect to the high-tech archers of today, there's a certain romance with the "old stuff" lacking in a collection of cables and pulleys. Kinda like single-action Colts and Remingtons versus Glocks and Sigs...

[Ace_of_Hearts]

Please check with your local Fish and Game and make sure your bow meets the minimum requirement for hunting Big game.

Your bow will be required to cast an arrow of a specific weight at least a distance of XXX yards.

 

Draw weight is not necessarily the most important thing to consider. Talk with a good Boyer that hunts and allow him to help you pick out a bow that will be comfortable to shoot, accurate and quiet.

[Diamond S Doug]

Hey, Dorado if that WF is Witchita Falls I spent a couple year there. I live in Phoenix now and we have a Sportsman's Warehouse, Bass Pro and Cabella's, however the best service and most knowledgeable I have found is at a local archery shop. Especially one that has an archery program. They tend to be run by people passionate about archery and love to educate as well as sell. Those are also the ones that take the time necessary to learn what you want even when you don't know yourself. One here saved me some money and started me off nicely.

[Billy Bristol]

I learned to shoot long bow from my mother when I was 10. She taught archery before she got married. Loved that long bow. Have since tried recurved and now have a compound. But the long bow felt much more comfortable shooting than the compound.

 

I got my first deer with a 45# long bow.

[Tom Bullweed]

I started hunting with a Martin recurve in 1988. They have excellent quality and are priced well.

Traditional Bowhunting is a great periodical to start with. You will likely find hunting ranges, 3-D shooting clubs and equipment makers in your area.

I had two D-curve bows made: 57-pb short bow and a 70-lb longer bow. I bought custom arrows with field, blunt and Zwickey two-blade broadheads.

I made two cedar bows with oak tips to protect form string bite.

I make a poor deer hunter (too twitchy in the stand), but I have taken rabbits and one groundhog with a bow.

This is another interest, like CAS, that ahs some amount of a learning curve and upfront costs but can be years of enjoyment.

[Dorado]

Hey thanks for the info. I always thought that for deer you'd need a 60# or better. Nice to know that a 45# will do the job. That'd make it a lot easier getting a feel for it. I'll be checking ebay and craigslist for a decent bow. Wish I could get out and try a few but my ankle is still in a frame. But I'll be getting a boot soon. So, I'll be able to stand and visit some archery stores.

I think I may look into a 50#. I didn't have much trouble drawing a 60# compound, just the break where it gets lighter for aiming was in an awkward place for me. I'm right handed so finding a bow that fits shouldn't be a problem.

 

So if you don't mind me asking what do y'all prefer, Longbow or recurve?

 

 

Please check with your local Fish and Game and make sure your bow meets the minimum requirement for hunting Big game.

Your bow will be required to cast an arrow of a specific weight at least a distance of XXX yards.

 

Draw weight is not necessarily the most important thing to consider. Talk with a good Boyer that hunts and allow him to help you pick out a bow that will be comfortable to shoot, accurate and quiet.

Texas doesn't have a minimum draw. From the Texas Parks and Wildlife website:

 

Longbows, Compound Bows, or Recurved Bows

There is no minimum draw requirement for longbows, compound bows or recurved bows.

Devices that allow a bow to be locked at full or partial draw are
lawful during any season when lawful archery equipment may be used.

 

 

Diamond Doug, WF is WIchita Falls. We used to have a really nice archery outfitter. They could even custom make bows. But they shut down many years ago when I was a kid. Only place we have now is Academy. I don't think they have traditional bows. But they do have an indoor range.

 

My friends think I'm out of place in time. I don't have many high tech gadgets, Most of my hunting and camping equipment is older than me, some is older than my father. Almost all of my movies are set in the past. lol. I'm too old to be 28.

[Tracker Logan]

I build my own wooden bows, or self bows, made from one wood stave. The one I shoot now is an overbuilt bow about 58# and is based on the Holmegaard bow found in a Danish bog and dates about 8000 years ago. To me that is a primitive bow. If you want to know about primitive bow building get the Traditional Bowyer's Bible. You can buy a $35 wooden stave and make it or have someone make one for you for $300 -$500. The fun is making a piece of wood come to life.

[Dorado]

By primitive I'm meaning Traditional. Longbow or Recurve, Unfortunately I'm not allowed to do any wood working. Dr.'s orders. Besides, I'm not that good at finishing wood. At any rate I may have found the bow I'm looking for. A Fred Bear Montana 64" longbow. It's relatively inexpensive and has great reviews. If I can scrounge up the money I need I'll probably get that and a few accessories to go with it.

[Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172]

I have lusted after a Fred Bear Grizzly for years. I am too old to hunt and I doubt that I could pull

a 50 pound bow any longer. But I always had a fantasy about one.

[Dirty Dan Dawkins]

I don't know all there is to know about shooting traditional bows

But can ya answer a couple of questions:

Having made bows, what are essential tools for self bows? For making recurves?

How about the bow kits from Binghams?

Do you use traditional arrows, heads and fletching?

What is a good OAL for a bow ( I understand this must take into account many factors so let's say I'm 6'2", 225+/- and want to use one to hunt)?

Draw weight?

 

My dad used to shoot archery tournaments in the 70's before it got overrun and diluted by the compound bows. I recall him saying he had the pleasure of shooting with Dan Quillian from time to time.The tournaments got to where they were set up for making shots inconceivable in hunting and became a match of who destroyed the least amount of arrows so he quit.

[Dorado]

But can ya answer a couple of questions:

Having made bows, what are essential tools for self bows? For making recurves?

How about the bow kits from Binghams?

Do you use traditional arrows, heads and fletching?

What is a good OAL for a bow ( I understand this must take into account many factors so let's say I'm 6'2", 225+/- and want to use one to hunt)?

Draw weight?

 

My dad used to shoot archery tournaments in the 70's before it got overrun and diluted by the compound bows. I recall him saying he had the pleasure of shooting with Dan Quillian from time to time.The tournaments got to where they were set up for making shots inconceivable in hunting and became a match of who destroyed the least amount of arrows so he quit.

From what I understand about bowcrafting you'd need a lot of hand tools such as draw knives, planes, and the like. On the 3 Rivers website they have a section dedicated to self bows and building them.

[Brother King, SASS #69031]

But can ya answer a couple of questions:

Having made bows, what are essential tools for self bows? For making recurves?

How about the bow kits from Binghams? This is a great way to start. Many of the custom bowyers that I know and have ever met started with a bow kit from Binghams. Plus, they'll line you out with plenty of great suggestions on tools and building molds.

Do you use traditional arrows, heads and fletching? Heck, I've done it all the ways there are to do it; including turning my own cedar; killing my own turkey for flight feathers; dipping shafts; burning different fletching cuts; fletching helical left/ right/ straight.

Now I'll admit it.... I LOVE CARBON ARROWS LOLOLOLOL....

What is a good OAL for a bow ( I understand this must take into account many factors so let's say I'm 6'2", 225+/- and want to use one to hunt)?

Draw weight? My personal preference for a recurve is no shorter than 60" and no longer than 64". For a longbow 62"/ 68" Draw weight really depends on the shooter, too. Lately I have tended to shoot my mid-weights (62-68#) far more often than my others. Part of that is that I like the arrow flight with the carbon/ helical/ shield cut.

 

My dad used to shoot archery tournaments in the 70's before it got overrun and diluted by the compound bows. I recall him saying he had the pleasure of shooting with Dan Quillian from time to time.The tournaments got to where they were set up for making shots inconceivable in hunting and became a match of who destroyed the least amount of arrows so he quit. Like all things....they change....but there are plenty of traditional classes and like minded if you want to look for them.

[Dirty Dan Dawkins]

I have actually found a group in N Ga that is a family oriented traditional archery group. Down now for deer season.

[Caliope Cupcake #13981]

I don't hunt--would like to, just never got the opportunity. I competed in archery however, in high sch, college, university. Used a Bear recurve with recoil rods, and a compound for a short time--not sure the maker. that was when they first came out. the advantage of compound is of course that it pulls full weight only to half draw, then goes to half weight for the full draw. it allows you to have a steadier hold at full draw and a relaxed aim without fatigue.

[Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001]

Just took a peek at Ebay , there are some Pearson Super Jets , at what seem to be a reasonable price

 

I am thinking of looking for a L/H take down

 

CB

[Dorado]

Just took a peek at Ebay , there are some Pearson Super Jets , at what seem to be a reasonable price

 

I am thinking of looking for a L/H take down

 

CB

I looked at those too. I'm not so sure about those. They look kinda flimsy. The tips were very thin on a couple of them and looked like they were ready to break off. I think I'll save my pennies and get something with a guarantee. Quality first, cheaper later.

[Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001]

the Pearson Super Jets , were made from the late 50s , up to the early 70s , from what I have seen

 

I have found 1 of the 3 or so that should be around here , going to use it to start my duaghter with

 

if she stays with it , I will bropley ger her a Martin X-200 like I use

 

I want to get one of the Martin takedowns in hand , to see how it feels , have to find someone close , who has it in stock

 

Being a southpaw , the options are limited

 

CB

[Dorado]

There is a Martin X-200 on Ebay right now for a little over $100. The seller is KM Archery Hut. It's a Used 2013 model 48# 60" Recurve. What would be a good price for it?

[Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001]

I have had my X--200 for a 7 or so years now , of corse it is L/H , I think I paid right at $250 for it back then

 

I belive , I have seen them on the web for around $400 or a bit more

 

thinking around $200 would be good , take a look at the web

 

CB

[Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001]

3 Rivers , has an good looking T/D for less than $150 ,

 

I don't use the bows a lot anymore , BUT , I kinda want a T/D

 

it appears to have all the bushings , you might need , to put a stablizer , or a reel for bow fishing

 

also is set up to put a arrowrest on , I don't like to shoot off the shelf , if I can avoid it

 

CB

[Noz]

Shooting a compound is like pulling the starter on a 10 horse lawn mower.

Shooting a recurve reminds you of the strike of a golden eagle.

Shooting a long bow is like holding a striking rattle snake.

I was a fanatic about recurves and longbows until I began chasing the testosterone level in long bows. My last one and the one that ended my archery career was drawing 78# at my draw length. 30" maple shafts with 10" tapers( self done) capped crested and dipped. Fletched with wild turkey feathers burned to my design of shield cut, tight right hand helicals. The human body is not designed to handle the amount of stress such a bow puts on the shoulder joint, especially if you learned early to shoot with a locked elbow and were never able to break the habit.

When it became obvious that I could no longer shoot a stick bow, I bought a nice little compound. I rebuilt the riser so that I could continue shooting "off of the shelf". I took it to Illinois on a 4 day hunt. when I returned I took it to the pro shop and consigned it for sale. Hated it.

 

My best shot ever was a 53 yard shot at a wild turkey jake. (I had no knowledge of the distance, just knew I could make the shot)

I used a homemade osage longbow/flatbow 60# at 28". A tapered, selfnocked, crowned, crested, wild turkey fletched cedar shaft with a Grizzly broadhead. Arrow took out both wing butts and lungs. turkey took about 10 steps before he died.

 

Shooting instinctively is a marvelous thing.

[Dorado]

I signed up at the Archery Talk Forums. They're giving me a lot of good advice. I was looking at the longbows and still want one but I may get me a takedown recurve. That way I can get light 35# limbs then later on as my skills progress get heavier hunting limbs. The Samick Sage and Journey are looking really good to me. They have great reviews and are very inexpensive. I'm going out later on today to see if I can get my draw length checked so I'll know what pound limbs to get. I want to hunt instinctively. I'm getting to where I just want as simple of a sight as I can get on my guns, kinda the same way with what I want in a bow. Simplicity.

[Noz]

Go with 45# at least. That's light enough for anyone of reasonable health to master.

That's also heavy enough to take whitetails at reasonable distances. that is, 20 yards and under.

The key to instinctive shooting is to shoot a LOT.

Shoot at different shaped objects and never from the same distance twice.

A good practice game is shooting at a tennis ball with rubber blunt tipped arrows.. When you hit it it will bounce away. Move to your arrow and shoot at the ball again.

[Dorado]

The limbs for the Samick bows are not expensive. So I think I'll go with the light 35# limbs first to learn proper form and start developing those muscles, then in a couple of months get me some heavy limbs in the 45-50# and work my way up.

[Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001]

Well

 

ya might want to listen to what NOZ has to say

 

There is a very good chance , He has forgot , more than I think I know

 

I pulled the 60# for the first time in a while , not bad ran 10 off the rest , and only stuck 2 in the tree

 

CB

[Dorado]

Well

 

ya might want to listen to what NOZ has to say

 

There is a very good chance , He has forgot , more than I think I know

 

I pulled the 60# for the first time in a while , not bad ran 10 off the rest , and only stuck 2 in the tree

 

CB

I'm hearing him, But my thought process is this.

I can shoot 50 shots in a session with 45# or 100 with 35#. I know that's more than a bit off. But for starting out I want to learn form and technique. And As inexpensive of a bow as what I'm looking at. I can just get a heavier set of limbs and work my way up. And Once I do move on to heavier limbs I'll have a light set to teach my nephew on. He's about as interested in bows as I am.

I can't work for a couple of months so I have plenty of time to practice.