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Rifle headspace


Tex Jones, SASS 2263

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I replaced the bolt and extension on my Uberti 1873 rifle (45 Colt) with a new one yesterday. The new bolt went in easily enough but it appears that there is an issue with not enough headspace. When I inserted a fired case into the chamber to check the extraction, the bolt came forward, the extractor slipped on to the case rim but the lever did not close. It stops about 1 1/2" from the bottom tang. It appears that the links are now too long. Any ideas on how to correct? New, shorter links? Thanks, Tex

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That's not surprising.....especially if the gun is short stroked. All the Uberti's are different and the links from companies that offer kits come in different lengths to address this issue. You need to contact the company that made the links for your kit and get shorter ones. If you have stock links......you are in over my head so I can't help you there.

 

I do know that changing bolts "can" cause head space issues and I also know that Uberti has different bolts out there.....old style ones. new style ones and the lastest ones that keep breaking.......so there should be another version out soon as well.

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You've got a couple of options. "Shorter" links are one and usually the easiest(though maybe not the least expensive) although that depends on knowing what links are in there for sure if they are "short stroke". Stock links are not marked, so they can be more difficult to "measure". The option I used most to set headspace on a rifle was to measure what you have(feeler gauges between the bolt face and the end of the barrel) then remove the barrel and face off the back of the barrel the required amount. I used a mill, but careful work with a file and machinist square will achieve satisfactory results. I would stay away from facing off the Bolt.(although it is an option) There is too much opportunity to screw up the "nub" on the bottom of the bolt, even with the extractor removed. Good luck!

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Sometimes the bolt extensions vary in length - even if they are of the same "generation."

 

I bought one that measured almost 10 thousandths shorter than the one that was originally in the gun....:angry:

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That's not surprising.....especially if the gun is short stroked. All the Uberti's are different and the links from companies that offer kits come in different lengths to address this issue. You need to contact the company that made the links for your kit and get shorter ones. If you have stock links......you are in over my head so I can't help you there.

 

I do know that changing bolts "can" cause head space issues and I also know that Uberti has different bolts out there.....old style ones. new style ones and the lastest ones that keep breaking.......so there should be another version out soon as well.

------------------------------------------------------

No joke on the latest bolts that keep breaking#@/*!!

Ringer

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Please excuse hijacking? of the thread, but would someone who knows what's up further explain the statement:

"....Uberti has different bolts out there.....old style ones. new style ones and the lastest ones that keep breaking..."

I have a couple of .38/.357 & a single .45 Colt Renegades - all of them haveing been gone over by Manatee before any rounds fired through them - and I would like to know what to expect -or- look out for .

I know about that lower "nub" shell retainer that will break off due to bad timing, and that I can expect to have to replace an extractor somewhere along the line.

After all that is said and done, how much of the potential problems that I've been led to expect can be helped by hardening of particular parts of the mechanism of the Uberti '73 series made during the Beretta Renegade production run?

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Please excuse hijacking? of the thread, but would someone who knows what's up further explain the statement:

"....Uberti has different bolts out there.....old style ones. new style ones and the lastest ones that keep breaking..."

I have a couple of .38/.357 & a single .45 Colt Renegades - all of them haveing been gone over by Manatee before any rounds fired through them - and I would like to know what to expect -or- look out for .

I know about that lower "nub" shell retainer that will break off due to bad timing, and that I can expect to have to replace an extractor somewhere along the line.

After all that is said and done, how much of the potential problems that I've been led to expect can be helped by hardening of particular parts of the mechanism of the Uberti '73 series made during the Beretta Renegade production run?

 

 

I can think of 4 different bolt styles Uberti has used over the years. The bolts in the early Uberti's say pre early 90's are roughly a 16th to 3/32" shorter than the current bolts. These early guns also had smaller toggle link pins These pins are the same size as the original Winchesters. I've actually used these early links to rebuild some originals.

The post early 90's guns have the longer bolts and these guns also have the larger link pins.

Both these and the earlier small link pin guns used a thin almost wire like retaining pin to secure the firing pin extension to the Breech bolt.

#3 is somewhere around 2000 they went to a slightly larger pin to retain the extension.

#4 is the current bolts that have an extension stop much like the original Wins. Instead of a pin it's a small flat plate that fits into a notch in the side of the extension. The original also acted as a firing pin retractor because it didn't have a return spring on the firing pin like the Uberti. The original didn’t have that extension either. The firing pin and extension was all one piece.

 

To the original post. You can take the barrel off and trim it but I prefer to remove some from the front of the bolt. just take the extractor off so you can run a file over the bolt face. To protect the rim shelf just grind one edge of the file to make it safe and not cut. Then just pay attention so you always have the safe side of the file next to the rim shelf. Go slow reassembling to check. You aren't going to remove more than about .010" or so.

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