Jailhouse Jim, SASS #13104 Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Has anyone modified a Zabala 10 ga so that both barrels will stay open? The Federal shells don't drop out because they are ribbed. I'm not concerned about that but want the barrels to hang open enough to load. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Tie a 5 lb lead weight below the muzzle You asked for ideas .......Didn't say they had to be good ones LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Hacker, #60477 Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Has anyone modified a Zabala 10 ga so that both barrels will stay open? Any ideas? That sounds like a lot better idea than modifying it so that only one stays open, I'm sorry, maybe someone more useful will come along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jailhouse Jim, SASS #13104 Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Both funny ideas . Not helpful but funny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Jim, many SxS barrels don't drop 180 degrees. The Forearm frame half moon that fits into the receiver prevent such because of the angle of the cocking levers. Believe your going to have to live with it As for your issue with Federal ribbed hulls - about 3 months ago, loaded a case of once fired Remington Club BP's using a MEC SizeMAster. It crimps the bases back to factory diameter and more. Before using these reloads - it was only STS & AA's. These Clubs gravity shuck like a greased eel in a bucket of snot. It's the SizeMaster base crimp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Count Sandor, SASS #74075 Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Jim: I am not going to claim to be an expert on Zabalas, but I have two 10's I've shot for 3 years, so I have some experience. John Boy was accurate about the amount of opening and what controls that. These things will respond to smoothing/polishing in the action to make the opening easier, but you won't get a lot more. A good smith might be able to play with the cocking levers, but going the least bit too far means a gun that won't cock. The biggest thing internally is to lighten the springs so it doesn't take three men and a bulldog to open the gun. The 10's were intended as fowling guns, and are made to handle stout loads that can knock down a goose at some ridiculous range, not to be speedy. Hourglassing the main springs helps a lot with ease of opening. The opening-lever spring is huge, and can be lightened a lot. As always, unless you feel confident in your abilities, a good smith is your best bet...finding replacement springs is tough. The subject of shucking is a whole other story. Others may (will) disagree, but for my money, the best way to facilitate ease of shucking in the 10's is through load adjustment. Yes, the chambers need to be honed and polished, and kept clean. However, I am convinced that, at least with black powder, the huge loads possible with 3.5 in shells can simply - from heat and pressure - expand the base of the shell to the point where it doesn't want to come out by itself, and the plastic heats up enough to be just a bit "draggy" as well. I spent 1 1/2 years wasting time pulling hulls from chambers until I wised up and backed my loads down from the "fill the case with powder and shot Super Magnums" I was shooting. (Still load some of those for night shoots, and they are GREAT! for that - but slow). The really frustrating thing about the big boomers was that they wouldn't come out of the chambers right after being fired, but would literally fall in and out when cold. Took a while, but I finally caught on. Good luck with the 10. The crowds love 'em, spotters in enclosed areas hate 'em, and after the first trigger pull with BP, no one can see a thing! CS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jailhouse Jim, SASS #13104 Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Thanks fellas, kinda what I was figuring anyway. I think I'll tear it down and do some polishing before anything else. The lightening of the opening lever spring will help some too. My problem lies with the springs wanting to shut the action unless the barrels are facing or held down. Course that was made worse when I cut the barrels to 20". It sure is a fun gun for specialty shoots and of course night shoots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backshootin beauford mcgee Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I had Lassiter work on my double 10, made by Elibar of spain. It was very difficult to break after firing. Lassiter welded up the cocking arms and it is now 30% easier. Does not fall open like a 12 buy is very manageable. Mine too, requires plucking the empties -- no shucking there. But fun to shoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jailhouse Jim, SASS #13104 Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 I had Lassiter work on my double 10, made by Elibar of spain. It was very difficult to break after firing. Lassiter welded up the cocking arms and it is now 30% easier. Does not fall open like a 12 buy is very manageable. Mine too, requires plucking the empties -- no shucking there. But fun to shoot. I don't mind the shuckin' or even opening hard, I just want it to stay open when I let go of the barrels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordyce Beals Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Jailhouse Jim said: My problem lies with the springs wanting to shut the action unless the barrels are facing or held down. Course that was made worse when I cut the barrels to 20". You found out the hard way that the length of the barrels is important for more then handling. Joke: If the gun stayed open with the original length you could Dremmel tool and J B weld them back together! Fordyce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Count Sandor, SASS #74075 Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I don't mind the shuckin' or even opening hard, I just want it to stay open when I let go of the barrels. Without playing with the cocking levers and timing, softening the main springs should help...they are super stiff in their stock form, and due to the design of the cocking levers, they really have an easy time pushing the action closed. If you decide open up the gun to clean and polish, be aware that we're talking about V-springs here. Removing the cross pin for the hammers will set them free, and you will have to fabricate a spring compressor to get them back in, even if you soften them. Not trying to scare you off, its just a "been there, done that" situation. CS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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