Dorado Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Well, my creative side is bugging me and telling me to make a knife. I've been trying to figure out what kind I'd like to make so I drew some out. I'd like to hear what y'all think about them, and which one I should make. I have three designs. One is a beavertail, the second something I just drew up, and the third is one that I copied and modified from an antique knife. I can't decide which one to make. Top is Beaver tail, bottom my design Modified antique knife Like I said I'm just trying to figure out what I want to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EL NEGRO GATO #8178 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Howdy check out www.crazycrow.com they have blanks, handles, guards,pin's,sheath's, and alot of other supplies. Once you have a knife I know of a sheath maker to make a unique sheath that you'll be pround to own and he's not expensive ENG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 D If you have not done one before , you might think of getting a finished blade , them figgure out , what you are going to use to haft it . The next option is to get a blank and go from there . A lot will depend on what tools you have or have access to , grinders , band saws , belt sanders ECT . We still have not touched on heat treating , tempering , and final polish . CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorado Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 I have all the tools I need, short of a forge, tools are something I'm not worried about. I thought of going with a blank, but I'm just concerned about the quality of the steel. I'm rough on knives and need a strong steel the last blank I tried broke very easily. I can temper and polish without any problems, my only issue is with hardening. However, I know the basics and have done similar things before, but to be sure, I'm also going to make a wooden version before I start on the actual steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil dogooder Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Ok I kinda like the modified antique one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 D IMO a single edge it the easyest to do , the tough part is the hallow grind . A double edge adds the grinding of 2 edges and the center grind , if you chose that style . Whatever you decide , they are fun to make . I have been thinking on how to make a jig to hold the blade while removing excess material , I think it will make it easier to keep the grinds uniform . Good luck with it . CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorado Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Thanks Evil, My modification is a more curved blade and a "trigger" guard. I meant for the guard to be even but a little mistake turned out something different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorado Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 D IMO a single edge it the easyest to do , the tough part is the hallow grind . A double edge adds the grinding of 2 edges and the center grind , if you chose that style . Whatever you decide , they are fun to make . I have been thinking on how to make a jig to hold the blade while removing excess material , I think it will make it easier to keep the grinds uniform . Good luck with it . CB What kind of grinder are you using? With a bench grinder you could replace the metal guard with angle iron bent to the right angle and run the blade material down it. I'm going to attempt it with a bench grinder to get close then follow that up with a sander, followed by a sanding block and polish stones. It'll take some time, but I'm patient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 D I am setting the jig up to use on the belt sander or the sanding disc , with a little tweaking , it may be able to be used for both . Also got am idea in the works to setup a hallow grind jig , it will be very close to the other with a couple of more features , built into it . Still trying to get the bugs out of the prototypes , getting closer to what I want . CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorado Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 D I am setting the jig up to use on the belt sander or the sanding disc , with a little tweaking , it may be able to be used for both . Also got am idea in the works to setup a hallow grind jig , it will be very close to the other with a couple of more features , built into it . Still trying to get the bugs out of the prototypes , getting closer to what I want . CB What paper do you use on your belt sander? I have a nice one but I can't find a paper that would last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bama Red Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 A knife is a downright personal choice due to the close nature of knife work. Having said that, my favorite of the three styles would be the beavertail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorado Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 I may order some more steel and make a second. but that depends on how well the first comes out. I still can't decide which one I'd rather make. Although I'm leaning on either the Beavertail or the "Trigger". I'm starting to think that the second one is a bit too modern for what I'm wanting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pack Saddle Slim, SASS #73122 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 I made one about thirty years ago using an old railroad hacksaw blade...the kind that was full-tempered. Ground it into a 3½-inch drop-point hunter with a deer horn handle. I hollow-ground the blade and, believe it or not, it actually turned out pretty darn good. My oldest son pretty much acquisitioned the thing after he found out how sharp an edge it would take. It was a great project, but I don't think I'll make another one. It turned out to be a lot harder than I thought it would be...especially if you want to do it right. Good luck. I don't think you'll regret making one yourself...even if it's just for the fact that you did it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 D The biggest thing with the belts , is not to force them . They are more expencive ,but , the fiberbacked one are the best . Just use the cheap one fron Habor Fraight , for rough work , then use the better ones for finish . Depending on the leanght you need , check Jantz supply , or the other tool places Easco ect . I tend to use the buffer a lot , just watch it does not , rip things out of your hands . The best advice I can give you is that a lite touch will keep real BAD things from happening . It also makes belts last longer . CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorado Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 PSP, Funny how good tools or knives get "acquisitioned" isn't it. I've lost many that away. But you're right. If I'm asked where I got my knife, I want to be able to say "I made it". I get to do that when I'm working on a customer's house. But this is something that most people only buy from the store. It is a good feeling to say that I made that, and I didn't have to buy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorado Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 D The biggest thing with the belts , is not to force them . They are more expencive ,but , the fiberbacked one are the best . Just use the cheap one fron Habor Fraight , for rough work , then use the better ones for finish . Depending on the leanght you need , check Jantz supply , or the other tool places Easco ect . I tend to use the buffer a lot , just watch it does not , rip things out of your hands . The best advice I can give you is that a lite touch will keep real BAD things from happening . It also makes belts last longer . CB Fiberbacked...Ok, I'll pick some up tomorrow. As far as finishing goes, I'll use a sanding block and do it by hand. I'll probably sand up to 400 grit then, if it came out real nice and I'm wanting a better polish, I might hit it with some of my stones and polish it out to a mirror shine. But I doubt that would be a big thing I'd push. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Long Branch Louie Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Dorado, If ya broke your last one, you're not gonna like O-1 tool steel very much. It's a very hard steel after heat treating, but it's also brittle. D-2 would be a good choice, but mean to grind and sharpen, and S-7 doesn't get quite as hard but polishes to a brilliant shine and is an impact resistant steel. I'm trying to make a knife as well, I'm lucky that I make tools for a living, so I can heat treat and temper with no problem. If you don't have a good way to heat treat, there are local shops that will heat treat for you, and if that costs too much, send it to me and I'll heat treat and temper it for free. Good luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorado Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Louie I just may have to take you up on your offer, thanks. My steel is coming in soon and I'll be getting started on it about as quickly as I can. Oh and when I said I broke a blank it was a cheap blade. I purchased a kit off of another site and got to working on it, I had the scales attached and was shaping them. I had the blade in a vise and was filing on the scales when I bumped the knife with my hip and the blade snapped. I've been leery of those ever since. But if I make it myself and still break it, then I can only blame myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Long Branch Louie Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Louie I just may have to take you up on your offer, thanks. My steel is coming in soon and I'll be getting started on it about as quickly as I can. Oh and when I said I broke a blank it was a cheap blade. I purchased a kit off of another site and got to working on it, I had the scales attached and was shaping them. I had the blade in a vise and was filing on the scales when I bumped the knife with my hip and the blade snapped. I've been leery of those ever since. But if I make it myself and still break it, then I can only blame myself. Be glad to do it for you, O-1 needs to be oil quenched when it comes out of heat treat and we have quenching oil. Just let me know and I'll shoot you an address. See you down the trail... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorado Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 I made a couple of wooden models yesterday and I've been playing around with them. I think I'll be going with my "Trigger" pattern. It just seems like the more useful design. If it turns out nice I might order some more steel and make a Beavertail too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Foot Johnson Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 I don't know anything about knife making, but I ground THIS ONE out of an old wagon spring a few years back, and found some shed elk horns out in the field to scale it with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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