Come On Christmas Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 I bought me a used Cattleman 44/40. I tried to get the pin out just using my fangers. She no budge. What do you use to persuade them out what don't bugger up the end of the pin? Shameless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Pony Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 A set of bulldogs with parallel closing jaws padded with tape or such can be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neches 50502 Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Remove triggerguard, backstrap, hammer, bolt and hand from the gun. Use appropriate brass punch to drive the pin out easily. Driving of course from the rear of the frame with the brass punch. After removed find out the cause of the pin sticking either polish to remove the issue or purchase new pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curley Fryes Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 I've got a Cattleman Hombre and mine was stiff too when I first tried to get it out. Make sure you hold the release all the way. I also put a drop of oil on it and let it drip down. Took a while, but finally came out. No problems with it since then. Just keep it oiled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Howdy I have never used one but Bottom Dealing Mike likes this tool: Base Pin Puller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe West, SASS#1532 L Regulator Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 I have both styles of puller Brownell's sells as referenced by D. Johnson. They both work very well, but I favor the heavier one. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rancho Roy Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 No oil if shooting the black.............Use animal fat or better yet Ballistol............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virgil Ray Hality, SASS# 37355 Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 if stuck try Kroil (or similar). Next, take push button thing off. Next disassemble as noted above and punch out. no need for an extra spend unless you want one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lethal Larry, SASS #58429 Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 I bought me a used Cattleman 44/40. I tried to get the pin out just using my fangers. She no budge. What do you use to persuade them out what don't bugger up the end of the pin? Shameless Needlenose plyers that I've dipped in that liquid plastic stuff that protects the metal pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 I've used a church key - the blunt end for bottle caps - on my Vaqs. Good luck, and bottoms up. GJ Honest, I don't know HOW one of those happened to be in the trailer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abilene, SASS # 27489 Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Your Cattleman probably has the two position base pin. Try putting the hammer on half-cock, push in the transverse pin latch, and push the base pin in to the "safety" position. "Stuck" pins are usually easier to push inward than pull out. Then while holding in the transverse latch, go to full cock and then let the hammer down which will push the base pin forward. Sometimes this is enough to loosen the stuck pin. If not, proceed with the suggestions above. Or... I read about this one years ago but have never tried it. Take a ball bearing or buckshot or similar, the largest you can find that is still smaller in diameter than the cylinder pin. Stick two thin strips of electrical tape together with the bearing captured between the two strips, near one end of the strips. Cock the hammer and insert the tape strip into the hammer channel so that the ball bearing is just behind the rear of the base pin, then let the hammer down, causing the ball bearing to push forward against the rear of the pin. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
August West, SASS #45079 Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Tried to send this as a message but your box is full. Howdy: My USFA and Colt's pistol both have very finely fitted base pins. Unless I do the following procedure, exactly right, they are near impossible to get out. With the proper procedure, they come out easily. When the pin is well fitted to the bushing, it will tolerate absolutely no torquing during removal. Even the weight of the cylinder, I find, will bind the pin. I put the gun in half cock. Gate can be opened or closed -- doesn't matter. Then, on a towel atop a table, rest the gun on the hammer and backstrap, with the barrel pointed in an up orientation (however it points with both hammer and back strap on towel). Hold the gun by the barrel, being extremely careful TO NOT TOUCH THE CYLINDER. Now, pushing the latch without touching the cylinder is tricky, but it can be done with practice and multiple attempts. Remember, if you touch the cylinder at all, the pin will bind. Once you get the latch pushed through, pinch the end of the base pin, being careful to not put any lateral force on it. The only force must be on the axial plane of the pin (i.e. toward the front of the gun). At some point, you may feel some binding -- check your position carefully and figure out where the torque is coming from. Fix your position. The hammer and back strap must stay fully down on the table until the pin is clear. As the pin comes out, rotate the gun so it rests on the back strap and the pin is perpendicular to the force of gravity. What you're doing by working in this attitude is taking the weight of the cylinder off the pin. A little practice and you'll get pretty good and confident. The gun will still keep you honest though, if you touch the cylinder or tilt the gun. You'll get real fanatic about properly lubricating the base pin once you get it out. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seldom Seen #16162 Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 Before you go using tools that might mar the finish of your gun try a good dose of penetrating oil. I keep a can of PB Blast on my bench just for problems like this. Give it a good shot of oil and then allow time for it work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe West, SASS#1532 L Regulator Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 While the base pins are usually pretty smooth the inside of the bushing and/or cylinder hole can look almost threaded by the half done machining a lot of these guns suffer. If oil helps, great. If polishing an already smooth, except for a gouge or two, pin helps, good. But if that pin keeps getting stuck and gouged you ought to check out the hole it goes into. On the range, during shoots, which is where I often render assistance to those with gun problems, pulling that pin without damaging their gun to resolve their problem is quickest. Thus I always have my puller with me. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Eli Taylor Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Joe, which is the heavy one? Can't tell from the pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe West, SASS#1532 L Regulator Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 The double ended one pard. It's cut for Rugers on one end and Colts/clones on the other. Brownell's part# 080-000-367ae. Of course it costs more than the other one! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warhorse Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Sorry. Can't resist. Try detcord! Warhorse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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