Rance - SASS # 54090 Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Reloading AA hulls with the recipe for the Featherlite load on a Mec Sizemaster.. new last year.. Using all the proper wad, shot, primer, powder.. Checked every bolt and screw to make sure they are tight.. Just loaded 400 rounds this morning... I was having a small hole in the top of my final crimp.. Ok.. it says to adjust 1/32nd of an inch at a time... I'd adjust it.. retighten everything.. do a few shells... and the little hole would appear once in a while.. Then it's gone again (the little hole in the center) I just kept reloading and some are perfect.. some have a little swirl.. and some have the little hole... I finally found a happy medium where maybe 85% are OK and the rest acceptable but not like the OK ones... Is this the way it is? Am I being to anal about the perfect final crimp? They all go in and fall out of my SxS and I've never had a dud.. They all go BOOM!! Rance Just thinkin' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Rick Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 My do the same thing - usually have one BB fall out of most every shell. I chalked it up to that's the way it's gonna be and just shoot 'em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beartrap SASS#57175 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 After using one for years to load my STS hulls with BP I decided to get another one to load the wife's AA's. Spent 3 months trying to adjust it with the results you're getting, then called MEC. They said "ship it to us with a sample of the hulls and wads you're using along with bushing size and shot load and we'll be happy to adjust it for you". Best $25 in shipping I ever spent! Came back quick and now produces perfect shells! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheyenne Culpepper 32827 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Mine are consitantly the same, A nice near perfect crimp, had some trouble when I first got it, used, but with patience I got it worked out... Took me a while to get the sizer working right but evun that's good now, course we'll see about that when I unpack it in FL... cheyenne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rio Brazos Kid Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 The little hole in the middle of the crimp, (sometimes not so little), is a common problem with the AA HS cases, and has caused much frustration to many reloaders. There is however an easy solution to this problem. Setting the cam lower and lower is a common attempt at closing the hole, but as most of you have found, it helps, but is not the cure. The cure is to set the precrimp lower, to the point that it closes the mouth of the hull to where a lead pencil will not quite go thru the hole on the middle. This extra heavy pre-crimp will add material into the crimp, and the result is that the hole in the middle will be fully closed on the final crimp. THe suggested adjustment is this. Raise the cam back up to at least 1/2 way. Then lower the pre-crimp die until it closes the mouth of the shell case to where a led pencil eraser won't quite fit in the hole, then run through the final crimp. Then lower the cam again in very small increments, if necessary, to fully close the hole and effect a very slight taper or rounding on the end of the shell, to aid in loading. On progressive MEC's you have a finishing die at the last station, right after the final crimp. This die is used to put the taper or rounding on the end of the shell. Set it to very lightly taper the end of the shell. If set too low for a heavy taper, it will cause crushing of the hull, usually just above the brass case head, so be careful not to set that die too low. RBK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Whiskers Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 I've got a MEC9000 and have been having the same problem.What helped was I raised the plunger that seats the wad so it's just at the crimp line.Now about 80% or so turn out ok.Just ordered wads from Midway today that are 7/8oz...24 gram wads like the featherlites are.Gonna try those and see how they work out since all I've had before was 1oz wads being used with a 7/8 oz shot load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
August West, SASS #45079 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 The cure is to set the precrimp lower, to the point that it closes the mouth of the hull to where a lead pencil will not quite go thru the hole on the middle. This extra heavy pre-crimp will add material into the crimp, and the result is that the hole in the middle will be fully closed on the final crimp. My experience also is that problems with the crimp are almost always due to the pre-crimp stage and not the final crimp stage. There is an aftermarket pre-crimp star that is made of metal rather than plastic. It results in perfect shells every time with little to no adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rio Brazos Kid Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 My experience also is that problems with the crimp are almost always due to the pre-crimp stage and not the final crimp stage. There is an aftermarket pre-crimp star that is made of metal rather than plastic. It results in perfect shells every time with little to no adjustment. That metal precrimp is actually made for putting the precrimp on brand new hulls that have never been crimped before. Using it as the precrimp on hulls that have been previously crimped will usually cause more problems than you really want to put up with. Unless you carefully orient the hull so that the metal precrimp indexes in exactly the same place every time, it will mangle more hulls than those it does correctly. The Standard MEC zytel Spindex crimp starters are designed to rotate to the existing folds in the hull, and are far and away the better precrimp than the metal hull mangler, (made by Ballistic Products and costs about $30). Of course if you have the metal one, (the aftermarket one, not the early MEC metal one), and are having satisfactory luck with it, then keep on truck'in, but I would not recommend that anyone change to it in hopes of better crimps. If your press is an older model with the early metal MEC crimp starter, I would recommend updating it to the new style zytel Spindex starter. The kit, MEC part #8462, comes with all mounting parts and both 6 and 8 fold crimp starters, for approx $8. Does a great job and you can switch from 6 to 8 fold crimpers in approx. 10 seconds. RBK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Frank Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 I have a really old Sizemaster (SM-77) that I purchased on ebay. WHen I first set it up, I was getting inconsistent crimps. It didn't matter how much I messed with the crimp or precrimp setting, I couldn't get it perfect. I found that the adjusting the wad guide pressure made a huge difference in the final crimps. I now have it set so the guage just starts to register when the ram is all the way down (wad seated). After making that adjustment, the crimp adjustments had the desired effect. I haven't touched anything since and get perfect crimps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Trampas, SASS # 55781 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one having trouble with the crimp on a Sizemaster, I have been just living with it, some hulls seem to do better than other's and they are the same hull, double AA's, go figure. Sometimes I have a pellet that is ready to come out, so I take it out, but otherwise they work good, guess I will never get it to look factory, I have played with it and got it better. Will try lowering the pre crimp to see if that helps, will look into the medal pre crimp, I guess mine is plastic since it is a stock Mec. I have picked up some STS hulls at some of the shoots, gonna try them and see what happens. All for now JD Trampas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Wilkins SASS #57887 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Setting the pre-crimp lower is the correct solution to the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rance - SASS # 54090 Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 A little background... When I got my Sizemaster last year.. I put a thread up on the wire of what to expect in the unexpected... using the reloader... One feller put on to make sure everything is tight.. ya know all the bolts and nuts... Well I have a big tendency to overtighten everything.. First thing.. adjusting the wad pressure.. stripped out the threads OK.. recut the thread and put in new screw... Adjusting the cam... stripped out the thread OK.. redrill and put in new screw with nut on the backside... I had the little machine working perfectly... crimps were nice.. Just reloading and had a big smile on my face Then on one session.. my crimps started varying... OK.. what now... I started readjusting everywhere... couldn't get it right... Then I noticed the little tiny roll pin that holds the roller on the cam was sticking out about 3/8 to 1/2 an inch... Wait a minute.. that shouldn't be that way should it?? I drove the roll pin back to where it belonged... I've been in the process of getting everything back into adjustment for the right crimp ever since.. The owners manual says that with the new 1 piece wads that I don't need wad pressure.. Is that right?? I have mine adjusted now to around 35-40.. I think I might try and back that off... Does this sound like a right move? Lot of good input in the replies... sounds like the precrimp that Rio Brazos Kid recommended might be the culprit... I don't recall ever messing with that one and Buckshot Frank.. I think I'm gonna lower my wad pressure also.. I had 2 out of 200 that bulged on me the other day... JD Trampas... Rio was sayin' that the Metal Pre crimp.. might be a no no... rethink it.. Thanks everyone for the replies.. It gives me a place to start again.. Rance Thinkin' the ol' SASS wire is a good thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Frank Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 The owners manual says that with the new 1 piece wads that I don't need wad pressure.. Is that right?? I have mine adjusted now to around 35-40.. I think I might try and back that off... Does this sound like a right move? I set mine to where the pointer just starts to move when the handle is all the way down (30 maybe?). Just enough to know that the wad was fully seated when I crank the handle down all the way. This way, I don't have any variance in wad seating depending on how far I pull the handle down. This adjustment had by far the greatest effect on the quality of crimps that I get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Trampas, SASS # 55781 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Cowboy Rance, after I posted I re-read the posts and seen what Rio said, I will more than likely keep it the way it is, I did lower the pre-crimp a little, might have to do it some more, will have to raise the final crimp the next time, I know I have it to far right now, not very good crimps to say the least, and as Buckshot Frank said, will adjust the wad thing also, just some playing with it the next time I re-load. When I started to re-load shotgun, was going to go with a progressive, but couldn't justify the expense since I only shoot cowboy and nothing else, if I was shooting trap or skeet, then I would have went with the progressive, I'm very happy with the Sizemaster. All for now JD Trampas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 What wad are you using in your load? The new AA hulls of course have the two-piece base, and on some lots of that hull, the white base insert piece tends to catch some of your wads and prevent them from sitting down all the way on the light powder loads we use. I have had to tinker with the wad (switching between Win, CB and Down Range) until I found one that would work on the real light 3/4 7/8 (sorry, didn't remember correctly what she is using NOW) ounce loads that my wife likes in her AA hulls. I have also had at least one lot that the base insert would cause the wad to bulge the hull wall, causing a bump about 3/8 inch above the brass of the head, that interfered with quick loading and shucking. And, I load with consistent wad seating pressure (just enough to move the pressure indicator needle), and I set the crimp starter down to close up the case mouth as mentioned above. Given all that, I can get a fully closed crimp all the time, and loaded rounds that fit my shell gauge 100% of the time. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant Smokepole #29248L Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Rance, I had this problem with the new AA-HS hulls. I cured it by increasing the wad pressure to at least 40 pounds and lowering the crimp starter until the folded points were almost touching in a cone. This gave me perfect crimp results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rance - SASS # 54090 Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 What wad are you using in your load? I load with consistent wad seating pressure (just enough to move the pressure indicator needle), and I set the crimp starter down to close up the case mouth as mentioned above. Given all that, I can get a fully closed crimp all the time, and loaded rounds that fit my shell gauge 100% of the time. Good luck, GJ I got my loading data from Hogdon.. they said use the pink wads.. can't recall the # of it off hand.. so I'm using pink wads Rance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 I got my loading data from Hogdon.. they said use the pink wads.. can't recall the # of it off hand.. so I'm using pink wads Well, you may want to make sure you know FOR SURE what wad you are using. Gray wad from Winchester is the WAA12L - a 7/8 ounce wad. Pink Winchester is WAA12SL - normally a one-ounce wad. Common pink wads from ClayBuster are CB 1100-12, a one-ounce wad that is equivalent to the WAA12SL (pink) wad. But, CB makes a couple of OTHER pink 12 gauge wads, that are not for the Win AA hulls. Just going by wad color is a turkey shoot sometimes. And, a featherlite equivalent load will be about 26 grams of shot - slightly more than 7/8 ounce of shot, for which it is hard to find a shot bushing, often times, and folks just use a 7/8 ounce bushing. All this DOES make a difference when trying to get your load to crimp well. GJ PS - I have now corrected an error in what I wrote earlier to cut down on confusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rance - SASS # 54090 Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Well, you may want to make sure you know FOR SURE what wad you are using. Pink wads from Winchester are the WAA12SL - a 7/8 ounce wad. Common pink wads from ClayBuster are CB 1100-12, a one-ounce wad that is equivalent to the WAA12L (gray) wad. But, CB makes a couple of OTHER pink 12 gauge wads, that are not for the Win AA hulls. OK Joe.. went home on lunch hour.. I'm using the ClayBuster pink wad that says on the labeling.. replacement wad for the Winchester WAA12SL I'm using a 7/8 oz. shot bar... Like I said before... everything was going beautifully with reloading til that little rolled pin came almost out of lthe cam roller.. and then I started readjusting everything to try and correct the crimp.. I'm thinkin'.. I just need to get back to the original settings now.. along with what has been suggested to me on the wire.. Lower first crimp starter postion and take away some wad pressure.. Thanks.. Rance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Trampas, SASS # 55781 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Well I decided to go and do some shot shells, didn't need any, but wanted to try the different methods the posters said, I now get a good crimp without the little hole, my wad pressure is 40, I use the 7/8 grey wad from winchester, I moved the pre-crimp down some more, raised the final crimp since I had it to low, after about 4 shells I have it set, they look pretty good, was very happy with the outcome. I had some STS shells that I picked up off a guy that don't reload at one of the shoots, he shoots factory so I got his, they loaded and crimp better than the double A's, couldn't believe how much better the crimp and shell looked, now my double A's looked pretty good, but not the same for sure. So thanks to Cowboy Rance for posting this topic and the other posters for their ideas, it sure helped me out anyway, was thinking of posting this myself but never got around to it, and I have been reloading these shells since last year, LOL, was just living with it. Do some more adjustment their Cowboy Rance and you will get it done to where they look good, if I can do it, a caveman can do it, LOL. All for now JD Trampas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rance - SASS # 54090 Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 CB0178-12 (WAA12L) For use in 7/8 to 1 oz. trap, skeet or sporting clay loads. Performs best in tapered hulls, Remington or Winchester Optimum load is 7/8 oz. Featuring Lead-in Taper CB1100-12 (WAA12SL) For use in 7/8 to 1 oz. trap, skeet or sporting clay loads. Performs best in tapered hulls, Remington or Winchester. Optimum load is 1 oz. Featuring Lead-in Taper OK Joe.. confusion is setting in I use the CB1100-12 Claybuster.. pink wad... Looks like JD Trampas is using the CB0178-12 Claybuster .. gray wad.. Looks like either is recommended and should work.. Am I ok?? Rance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 CB0178-12 (WAA12L) For use in 7/8 to 1 oz. trap, skeet or sporting clay loads. Performs best in tapered hulls, Remington or Winchester Optimum load is 7/8 oz. Featuring Lead-in Taper CB1100-12 (WAA12SL) For use in 7/8 to 1 oz. trap, skeet or sporting clay loads. Performs best in tapered hulls, Remington or Winchester. Optimum load is 1 oz. Featuring Lead-in Taper OK Joe.. confusion is setting in I use the CB100-12 Claybuster.. pink wad... Looks like JD Trampas is using the CB0178-12 Claybuster .. gray wad.. Looks like either is recommended and should work.. Am I ok?? Rance OK, the load data that Hodgdon gave you should have specified a wad. If they were talking Winchester, the WAA12L is gray and, and CB equivalent is the gray wad CB0178-12 If they suggested the WAAA12SL, which is pink, the CB equivalent is CB1100-12. Also pink. Normally, those 2 gray wads work best with 7/8 ounce shot. The two pink ones are best with 1 ounce shot. Given that you have a hole in the crimp, it could be that the 1 ounce wad is not what they recommended. So, the gray wad (WAA12SL, or CB0178-12) may be what they wanted you to use. I would go back to the exact written data from Hodgdon that they gave you, as a starter. Check that you have the right wad for the load they gave you. If they specified the pink wad but only 7/8 ounce shot, that may not be such a good recommendation for the load. I believe I may have put a typo in the wad conversion data I entered earlier. I'll check and correct. I use the CB0178 (gray) wad when loading 7/8 ounce loads in a Win hull to make feathery type loads. With special data that also came from Hodgdons. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant Smokepole #29248L Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Rance, going by what I see, use the data for 1 ounce loads. Claybuster CB 1100 is the equivalent of the WAA12SL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Trampas, SASS # 55781 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Cowboy Rance, I'm using the Winchester gray wad, WAA12L, these are wads designed for the 7/8oz (24 gram) target loads, I'm using Clays powder also. If you re-read my #20 post it says a winchester grey wad, 7/8, I know a friend of mine is reloading, he uses the pink wad, but he using a 1 oz load not the 7/8 All for now JD Trampas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rance - SASS # 54090 Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Cowboy Rance, I'm using the Winchester gray wad, WAA12L, these are wads designed for the 7/8oz (24 gram) target loads, I'm using Clays powder also. If you re-read my #20 post it says a winchester grey wad, 7/8, I know a friend of mine is reloading, he uses the pink wad, but he using a 1 oz load not the 7/8 All for now JD Trampas Sorry JD.. my mistake... I focused on the gray wad info only.. I've got around 1600 Claybuster pink wads.. so that's what I'll be using fer quite a while.. When I started.. I compared the price of Winchester and Claybuster wads.. quite a difference for future reference... Thanks again.. Rance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virgil Ray Hality, SASS# 37355 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Darn good thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulder Canyon Bob# 32052L Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 I have a really old Sizemaster (SM-77) that I purchased on ebay. WHen I first set it up, I was getting inconsistent crimps. It didn't matter how much I messed with the crimp or precrimp setting, I couldn't get it perfect. I found that the adjusting the wad guide pressure made a huge difference in the final crimps. I now have it set so the guage just starts to register when the ram is all the way down (wad seated). After making that adjustment, the crimp adjustments had the desired effect. I haven't touched anything since and get perfect crimps. The wad pressure cured the problem for me also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rio Brazos Kid Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Just to clear any mis-understanding on wads, here is the list of available wads that work best in Cowboy loads, using either AA or STS hulls. While there is 1 Remington style wad that works pretty well in 1oz. loads, the Winchester AA series of wads, and their clones, made by several aftermarket manufacturers are without doubt the better way to go. Whichever hull you use, Rem. or AA, these wads fit and perforn flawlessly. Best wads for 1 oz. loads. Winchester WAA12SL (pink wad) Clone wads are: Claybuster CB1100-12 (pink wad) Duster Wads Green Duster Down Range Wads DRA-12-1 (red wad) Down Range Wads XL-1 (neon green wad) (Same ballistics, different design). Best wads for 7/8 oz. loads. Winchester WAA12L (gray wad) Claybuster CB0178-12 (gray wad) Down Range XXL-7/8 (pink wad) (Same ballistics, different design) Duster Wads Clear Duster That's a lot of choices and all work very well. You CAN use a 1 oz. wad for a 7/8 oz. load, but it may result in loads that are somewhat dished at the crimp. Not the best choice. For 7/8 oz. loads, it's best to use a wad designed for 7/8 oz. It is poor practice to use a 7/8 oz. wad in a 1 oz. load. Usually bulged crimps will result. For best results, use only minimum wad pressure. Just enough to wiggle the gauge is plenty. In most cases, wad pressure above 30 lbs. can be detrimental, and is not necessary in the first place. RBK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt. Hochbauer, SASS #64409 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 If it were not so late I would be down in my shop readjusting my MEC jr.I just started loading (yucch)smokeless for my honey.I had it set to load my BP shotgun shells.But I have never attained the perfect crimp with AA hulls. My preference is the STS hulls as they work great in all my Sxs.But I will be trying to reset the precrimp 1st thing in the morning.Thanks for all the good tips. Sgt H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rance - SASS # 54090 Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 <snip> That's a lot of choices and all work very well. You CAN use a 1 oz. wad for a 7/8 oz. load, but it may result in loads that are somewhat dished at the crimp. Not the best choice. For best results, use only minimum wad pressure. Just enough to wiggle the gauge is plenty. In most cases, wad pressure above 30 lbs. can be detrimental, and is not necessary in the first place. RBK Rio Brazos Kid.. Thanks fer all the help... You say I CAN use the wad I have been using.. (pink) Claybuster CB1100-12.. and I see you say it's NOT the best choice at this time.. since I'm using the 7/8 oz shot bar.. and that the BETTER CHOICE would be the (gray) Claybuster CB0178-12 but.. since I do have quite a few of those pink rascals.. I'll probably continue to reload with them and then maybe switch.. but... I know that the starter crimp and the wad pressure will be where I start I sincerely thank you guys for all the response's Kinda puts my mind at ease that it will work Thanks Rance Thinkin' I'll have the same good luck as JD Trampas.. all for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Frank Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Rio Brazos Kid.. Thanks fer all the help... You say I CAN use the wad I have been using.. (pink) Claybuster CB1100-12.. and I see you say it's NOT the best choice at this time.. since I'm using the 7/8 oz shot bar.. and that the BETTER CHOICE would be the (gray) Claybuster CB0178-12 but.. since I do have quite a few of those pink rascals.. I'll probably continue to reload with them and then maybe switch.. but... I know that the starter crimp and the wad pressure will be where I start I sincerely thank you guys for all the response's Kinda puts my mind at ease that it will work Thanks Rance Thinkin' I'll have the same good luck as JD Trampas.. all for now Just to confuse you more, I use the Claybuster 4100 wad for my Featherlite clones (Win AA hull, 7/8 shot, Clays). The 4100 wad is an 8-petal wad designed for 7/8 - 1oz loads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rio Brazos Kid Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Just to confuse you more, I use the Claybuster 4100 wad for my Featherlite clones (Win AA hull, 7/8 shot, Clays). The 4100 wad is an 8-petal wad designed for 7/8 - 1oz loads. Yes Frank, I know that wad is out there, but I don't recommend it to others because it is somewhat of a PITA to use. The 8 petal design has a nasty habit of catching one of the petals into the rammer tube, and that leaves an area unprotected in the load, and subjects the shot to barrel scrub. May not be that pattern destrictive at the close CAS distances, but at normal target distances it has adverse effects on your pattern. Because of these problems I simply do not, and will not use the wads, and do not recommend them to others. There is absolutely NO advantage to the using of those wads in the first place. RBK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rance - SASS # 54090 Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Yes Frank, I know that wad is out there, but I don't recommend it to others because it is somewhat of a PITA to use. The 8 petal design has a nasty habit of catching one of the petals into the rammer tube, and that leaves an area unprotected in the load, and subjects the shot to barrel scrub. May not be that pattern destrictive at the close CAS distances, but at normal target distances it has adverse effects on your pattern. Because of these problems I simply do not, and will not use the wads, and do not recommend them to others. There is absolutely NO advantage to the using of those wads in the first place. RBK Thanks Rio.. Another thought .. laid to rest.. Helps with the confusion on wads I've already undertaken Rance Still appreciating your watchful eye and diligence on replying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt. Hochbauer, SASS #64409 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 I lowered the pre crimp die this morning and have now achieved crimp nirvana....This was the first time that I have gotten a factory like crimp on a AA hull.What a help that was Sgt H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Trampas, SASS # 55781 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 After doing some adjusting yesterday and doing some shells, I thought I would re-load some more today, everything is looking good and very happy with it. Cowboy Rance, your one post about the roll pin, thought I would check mine, yep, it was out a little, hammered it back in, then proceeded to load a batch, guess I will have to keep a eye out for that All for now JD Trampas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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