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slick a blackhawk


GPG

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I have read that nothing is needed to make a blackhawk work well for cowboy action shooting but I can't hardly beleive it. Is it anything that one of you have done yourself or do you know what works for a home gun bench project the best?

 

Great Plains Gordy

Fargo

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I have read that nothing is needed to make a blackhawk work well for cowboy action shooting but I can't hardly beleive it. Is it anything that one of you have done yourself or do you know what works for a home gun bench project the best?

 

Great Plains Gordy

Fargo

 

All I did to mine was replace the hammer spring and trigger spring. For a Ruger that is about 70% of an action job right there. Then just shoot it or dry fire it alot.

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Skip the tooth paste. And if you want to skip buying springs just unhook one side of the trigger spring

and if you're real ambitious cut one coil off the main spring. I didn't do the latter and don't think it's necessary.

Cycling 400-500 times is good. All an action job does is polish parts as they would be naturally polished

through use. So 4000 to 5000 cycles would be even better. I've got upwards of 12,000 rounds through

each of my Rugers without even one problem and they are as slick as any. The limiting factor for me is not

the guns' actions, it is my hand speed. I don't own a gun that doesn't shoot better than I do;-)

Woofs & Wasg.

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Actually if you install one of Wolff's 17 Lb. spring packages, which includes the 17 Lb. Hammer spring, the 30 oz. Trigger return spring, and extra power base pin latch spring, then all you have to do is just shoot it and let it slick it'self up. This is basically all you ever need to do to a Ruger in most cases.

 

Midway sells the spring package as Product #576-080 at approx. $13. It easily installed in less than 30 minutes and doesn't require disassembling the action. Just remove the grips and you can get to everything you need.

 

RBK

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Mostly a spring thing. I do my own. On a .45, I cut 4 turns off the main, and re-bend both ends of the trigger returrn spring. If the hammer "scuffs" the sides of the frame, install shim washers beside it, available from Brownells. I eventually put SBH hammers on my vaqueros, and might on a regular BH as well. Now shoot it a bunch.....

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A revolver is a simple mechanical device. When new, the pieces/parts are rough an unmatched to each other. Shooting or dry firing will mate these surfaces together and in the end, everything works much better once it's broken in. Are there burrs or other things that can be addressed? Yes, but you need to know what you are doing. Removing a burr is one thing, polishing the innards until all the tolerances are gone is entirely another.

 

Rugers are over-sprung. You can take the hammer and trigger springs way down and still have a reliable shooter. Rio Brazos Kid has the straight skinny; good place to start.

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Depends on if you want it to "work well" or work exceptionally well. ;)

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Replace the stock 23lb hammer spring w/ a 17lb one that the Vaqs come stock with - this will still fire all types of primers. Put the SBH hammer on and release one leg of the two trigger springs - if you don't like it it's easy to change back. Good to go. I shot mine stock for several years and didn't think the heavy main spring and stock hammer made a difference. I was wrong.

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