West Texas Sully Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Funny because it happened while unloading after the stage, and not while trying to reload against the clock. I know this must have happened to others, and I'm wondering what words of wisdom others may have for me. The ejector tube screw had backed out on one of my USFA 45s. I used a screwdriver and retightened that one, and then checked the screw on my other revolver. Appeared to still be tight. So - loctite? Just check it before each match? Other ideas? Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Low strength lock tite or clear nail polish on the threads of the ejector housing screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jake1001 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 I've been using clear nail polish on gun threads for 30 years, nary a screw lost yet. just sayin' Big Jake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Okie Sawbones, SASS #77381 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Use the Loctite Blue, NOT the Red. If you can find the Loctite Purple, it is even better -- it will release the screw without stripping the head. I use the purple on all of my fiearms and haven't lost a screw in ages. I got mine through Amazon.com. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 {quote} So - loctite? Just check it before each match? Other ideas? Yep, blue loctite. Check the rest of the screws - especially grip-to-frame screws. If you don't have some yet, get good gunsmithing screwdrivers that fit the screw slots well. Brownell Magnatips are recommended. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Okie Sawbones, SASS #77381 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 {quote} If you don't have some yet, get good gunsmithing screwdrivers that fit the screw slots well. Brownell Magnatips are recommended. Good luck, GJ +1 on the Brownell Magnatips Set -- have one in my cart and one on the work bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danite SASS #27034 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 I once made about fifteen feet with mine when it came off while shooting. I was at an indoor range and knew that the spring HAD to be there since the housing was. Finally found it inside of a bucket they used to gather spent brass.....Since then I check them every time I go to shoot. I'll have to try the loctite, though they have never been loose since, either, that or they haven't had a chance to really work loose...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Stephen D Hill, SASS #56151 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 I check EVERY screw before each shoot. Part of my prep for a match!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chili Ron Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 howdy, Just stop by your favorite car parts store and git some purple loctite. If they dont have it they can probably git it, mine got some in one day. Fingernail polish will work but be careful as it can work too well. I think the latest replacement screws from ruger have little plastic dots on em. Magna tips are a great idea, half a dozen tips and a small handle can be worth their weight in gold. Best CR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddnews SASS# 24779 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Had the same thing happen to me at my last shoot, although mine happened at the firing line and the ejector rod, spring and screw all launched themselves downrange about six feet. I got everything back except the spring, which apparently rolled between two boards on the elevated wooden "sidewalk" of the scenario's prop. I put mine back togehter with low-strength Loctite just as you have been advised to do. I doubt if I'll have any further trouble with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowhand Bob, 24229 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Happened to me many years ago and you can even finish the match without it. After seeing how much and how quickly black powder residue was channeling into the tube, I leave thet screw only lightly tensioned and remove the assembly after every match. Do the same with the Cylinder pin cross latch, I no longert want them torqued or glued anymore as this causes buggered screws with frequent disassembly. Whether black or smokeless, most/all residue from the case gets blasted forward and that is where most of your cleaning needs to be done. Perhaps adds five minutes per revolver to the overall cleaning time, whether thorough strip down or normal quick clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddnews SASS# 24779 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 I forgot to mention that I ordered a new ejector rod spring from USFA's website the day after the shoot, and had it before the end of the week. No problem at all with their order or delivery system, and I could have had it overnight if there'd been any hurry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Texas Sully Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share Posted September 3, 2011 Great advice - both the check 'em before each match, and the loctite purple. Also the idea of spare parts - cheap enough and really welcome if needed. Have the Brownell's magnatip already. Great tool. Thanks to all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brasspounder Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 Couple things to know about Colt SAA clone ejector tubes... Some of them DO NOT have the "stud" seated in the barrel that the ejector tube end should fit over, then is fastened down with a screw that threads into the stud. If your pistol only has the ejector tube fastened with a short screw and a couple of threads into a blind threaded hole into the barrel itself, you will have continuing trouble with this. .45 caliber barrels are bad, because there is little steel in the barrel to thread this blind hole into. Real Colt's have a stud fitted into the barrel itself that the ejector tube assembly fits down over, and then the screw threads into the stud, altogether a much more secure arrangement. Heavy blackpowder loads or any other heavy recoiling load and their resultant recoil will eventually loosen the kind that are just screwed into a blind hole in the barrel itself without the stud to take the loads. and will sooner or later fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado Coffinmaker Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 Would like to add, REALLY torquing down on that screw is NOT a good thing, If you strip the threads out of the barrel, you have a real problem. Moderate torque with Loc Tite or clear nail polish. Coffinmaker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Red Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 +1 on what BrassPounder says...have continual problem with my USFA pistols... TR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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