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straight trigger verses curved trigger


Trigger Mike

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Posted

looking at a Sig 1911 I was showed one for competition that has a squared trigger instead of the usual curve that has a cleaner break to it. Is a straight one better? Will it reduce my age old problem of jerking the trigger?

Posted

looking at a Sig 1911 I was showed one for competition that has a squared trigger instead of the usual curve that has a cleaner break to it. Is a straight one better? Will it reduce my age old problem of jerking the trigger?

My 1911 has a square trigger, and any customs I've built or had built over the last 20 years have had square

triggers - and they're great! They allow any finger placement to get a consistent pull, unlike some curved triggers.

 

That said, my Kahr, my HP & all my Ruger's and Colts have curved triggers and I like everyone of them too!

 

My 1911: My custom 1911.

 

Shadow Catcher

Posted

Gosh.. I love gun talk.. lol.. I was told that I could flatten my Rugers trigger and then I could shoot with one hand. Here is my problem. Dad blessed me with being tall, skinny, and large hands with longggggggggggggggg fingers.. The old style Rugers work well cuz there is a lottaaa gun there.. Anyhow, I can wrap my long fingers around a Ruger.. but being long, they are like a long back.. weaker really. If you are tall your chances of back problems are 50% higher. The same is truth with long fingers, you can wrap them, but you have no r eal power behind a long skinny finger. So, I can't pull a trigger back without two fingers. Now before you judge me as a weak chick.. consider I milked for decades.. and I benchpressed my weight in college... I am far from weak.. but I dont' work out as much as I should now days. Anyhow.. my long fingers reach nicely.. but have no power to pull... So flat works??? Can I get a kit and do it yourself??

Posted

Gosh.. I love gun talk.. lol.. I was told that I could flatten my Rugers trigger and then I could shoot with one hand. Here is my problem. Dad blessed me with being tall, skinny, and large hands with longggggggggggggggg fingers.. The old style Rugers work well cuz there is a lottaaa gun there.. Anyhow, I can wrap my long fingers around a Ruger.. but being long, they are like a long back.. weaker really. If you are tall your chances of back problems are 50% higher. The same is truth with long fingers, you can wrap them, but you have no r eal power behind a long skinny finger. So, I can't pull a trigger back without two fingers. Now before you judge me as a weak chick.. consider I milked for decades.. and I benchpressed my weight in college... I am far from weak.. but I dont' work out as much as I should now days. Anyhow.. my long fingers reach nicely.. but have no power to pull... So flat works??? Can I get a kit and do it yourself??

 

It can be done but I don't know how. it is probably simple to do.

Posted

Dad blessed me with being tall, skinny, and large hands with longggggggggggggggg fingers.

 

 

I know it's off topic....but I doan care! :lol:

 

I had a fella I served with in the Army with the longest fingers anyone had have seen. They nicknamed him "Alien" cuz his fingers were so long. BUT, I really liked his comeback....."When I get out of the Army, I'm gonna go back to school and become a Proctologist." :)

 

Chick

Posted

I found that the tip of the trigger on my 1860 Armys would occasionally pinch the tip of my finger. I decided that if the trigger were straighter it would not allow my finger to get under it and therefore would not pinch.

 

I removed the triggers and put them into a vise and slowly squeezed the curve out of them. I was waiting for the dreaded "ping" of breaking metal but they bent quite nicely.

 

Solved the problem.

Posted

Gosh.. I love gun talk.. lol.. I was told that I could flatten my Rugers trigger and then I could shoot with one hand. Here is my problem. Dad blessed me with being tall, skinny, and large hands with longggggggggggggggg fingers.. The old style Rugers work well cuz there is a lottaaa gun there.. Anyhow, I can wrap my long fingers around a Ruger.. but being long, they are like a long back.. weaker really. If you are tall your chances of back problems are 50% higher. The same is truth with long fingers, you can wrap them, but you have no r eal power behind a long skinny finger. So, I can't pull a trigger back without two fingers. Now before you judge me as a weak chick.. consider I milked for decades.. and I benchpressed my weight in college... I am far from weak.. but I dont' work out as much as I should now days. Anyhow.. my long fingers reach nicely.. but have no power to pull... So flat works??? Can I get a kit and do it yourself??

Well now - just have to tinker with it - don't you? :lol:

 

Make sure there is enough room for the trigger to sweep in it's arc. ;)

 

If you straighten a curved trigger - it becomes longer. Look at how close the trigger comes to the bottom of the trigger guard while

you're pressing it back. That total amount of gap is all there is to work with - so when you straighten it out you will only have so

much room and then the trigger will hit the guard inside.

 

If that is not far enough back to disengage the hammer, the gun won't fire. Then you'll have to shorten the trigger and reshape the tip of it.

 

Even after you do this - make sure there is enough room to pivot fully, or again the trigger will not release the hammer. :blink:

 

SO - does this help you any - probably not, unless you're comfortable taking a torch to the steel and bending it and then trimming it to fit.

I'd pay a gun smith to do this before I'd try it . . but that's me . .. :rolleyes:

 

For the same amount of money you can probably have the trigger pull lightened enough to make it easier to fire . . . :rolleyes:

 

Shadow Catcher

Posted

Well now - just have to tinker with it - don't you? :lol:

 

Make sure there is enough room for the trigger to sweep in it's arc. ;)

 

If you straighten a curved trigger - it becomes longer. Look at how close the trigger comes to the bottom of the trigger guard while

you're pressing it back. That total amount of gap is all there is to work with - so when you straighten it out you will only have so

much room and then the trigger will hit the guard inside.

 

If that is not far enough back to disengage the hammer, the gun won't fire. Then you'll have to shorten the trigger and reshape the tip of it.

 

Even after you do this - make sure there is enough room to pivot fully, or again the trigger will not release the hammer. :blink:

 

SO - does this help you any - probably not, unless you're comfortable taking a torch to the steel and bending it and then trimming it to fit.

I'd pay a gun smith to do this before I'd try it . . but that's me . .. :rolleyes:

 

For the same amount of money you can probably have the trigger pull lightened enough to make it easier to fire . . . :rolleyes:

 

Shadow Catcher

so the straight trigger just makes the hold more consistant, not necessarily less trigger jerk?

Posted

so the straight trigger just makes the hold more consistant, not necessarily less trigger jerk?

It allows me to be a little sloppier in finger placement, since the trigger moves straight back in the rails,

unlike rocking triggers which have a pivot action.

 

I like in it square guns like the 1911, it makes the trigger feel the same whether my finger is high or low, too far in or out, when I shoot it.

If I have time I try to get distal joint over middle of trigger, but in a rush, I take what I can get.

It won't smooth the trigger pull/release, that's different causes . . .

 

Shadow Catcher

Posted

I know it's off topic....but I doan care! :lol:

 

I had a fella I served with in the Army with the longest fingers anyone had have seen. They nicknamed him "Alien" cuz his fingers were so long. BUT, I really liked his comeback....."When I get out of the Army, I'm gonna go back to school and become a Proctologist." :)

 

Chick

 

 

You are just plain ole mean.. lol.. Okay fine you are funny too... I do have long fingers.. Daddy blessed me is all I can say..... they are great if you need to hang on to the edge of a buidling .. lol

Posted

Well now - just have to tinker with it - don't you? :lol:

 

Make sure there is enough room for the trigger to sweep in it's arc. ;)

 

If you straighten a curved trigger - it becomes longer. Look at how close the trigger comes to the bottom of the trigger guard while

you're pressing it back. That total amount of gap is all there is to work with - so when you straighten it out you will only have so

much room and then the trigger will hit the guard inside.

 

If that is not far enough back to disengage the hammer, the gun won't fire. Then you'll have to shorten the trigger and reshape the tip of it.

 

Even after you do this - make sure there is enough room to pivot fully, or again the trigger will not release the hammer. :blink:

 

SO - does this help you any - probably not, unless you're comfortable taking a torch to the steel and bending it and then trimming it to fit.

I'd pay a gun smith to do this before I'd try it . . but that's me . .. :rolleyes:

 

For the same amount of money you can probably have the trigger pull lightened enough to make it easier to fire . . . :rolleyes:

 

Shadow Catcher

 

 

Shadows I did have the springs cut.. maybe new springs or cut them more? But I did try the feel of a lightening.and a bisley and I could pull that trigger.. My fingers and toes are so darn long.. but I don't have a ton of strength in them is the problem. My flute teacher hated me.. .lol

Posted

Shadows I did have the springs cut.. maybe new springs or cut them more? But I did try the feel of a lightening.and a bisley and I could pull that trigger.. My fingers and toes are so darn long.. but I don't have a ton of strength in them is the problem. My flute teacher hated me.. .lol

Cutting springs is always a bad idea, there are springs of proper length but reduced compression weight available from Wolff and others.

A good trigger job that includes lightened springs (but not so light as to effect reliability) is a wonder and a delight.

 

I've owned or handled guns from Oglesby, Munden, and even local folks up here that are a marvel; clean easy 2-3 lb trigger pull, smooth,

crisp break, and as reliable as a hammer.

 

Some folks go into the realm of ultra light - sub-2 pounds, but I think that's a dangerous place to be, and reliability may suffer.

 

Changing the grip geometry may help, some guns like the Bisely have a different distance between backstrap and trigger front-face, than the

Colt or Ruger with the plow-handle grip. With your shooting hand resting in a relaxed curl, the shape it's in when you are handling a 6-gun,

measure the distance from the middle of the web between thumb and index finger, to the furthest joint in your trigger finger.

 

That's how far you want the Backstrap to trigger distance to be, so that the gun can sit in your grip, with the backstrap centered in your

grip, and the barrel of the pistol projecting forward as if it was part of your forearm Radius bone, trigger finger resting on the trigger

at the joint.

 

One thing you can do to practice is get a double action revolver and do dry fire training with it, over and over again. Wrist and finger

strength will improve, as will shooting performance in general.

 

Shadow Catcher

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