John Boy Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 I've been having light firing pin hits lately on one of my 45 Colt LSI Rossi M92. So decide to find out why ... * Pushed on the firing pin at the back of the bolt where the hammer strikes the pin * It was binding in the bolt. Disassembled the rifle to remove the bolt * Pushed the pin fully into the firing pin hole. The tip of the pin was jamming at the bottom of the firing pin hole * Removed the pin from the bolt, saw that the top of the complete pin was not straight * Got out the magnifying glass and proceeded to whack the pin about an inch in back of the pin * Routine was whack - insert - look at the position of the pin in the firing pin hole on the bolt under magnification * Whack - Look - Whack - Look - put the pin in the bolt to see if it 'floated' easily in the bolt * Got it centered in the firing pin hole and the pin floated easily in the bolt. * Polished the complete firing pin * Assembled and fired 3 empty primed cases: Bang - Bang -Bang That was the LSI Rossi, no safety Pulled the Puma Rossi,45 Colt, out of the safe and pushed on the back of the pin where the hammer strikes it. It too was binding. So, disassembled the rifle and did the same procedure I do believe that Rossi firing pins are made bent at the factory based on having 2 that were. To determine if yours are: look to see if the pin is hitting in the center of the primer - push on the pin at the back of the bolt to determine if it is floating in the bolt. If it binds, IMO, it's not if - it's when - you too will be having light primer hits and the rounds won't be going off LSI Rossi 24",no safety, Age - 2002 with thousands of rounds down the bore Puma Rossi 20",safety, Age - 2008 or 2009 with less than 500 rounds down the bore Might add, they are both brass frames! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Bullweed Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 My late 1990's Rossi's firing pin is straight as can be. The firing pin impacts the center of the .38's. I shot IPSC and DCM for over ten years. I always used CCI primers. I often shoot antique guns for CAS. One day a well-lnown 'smith looks at my 1902 Bisley in .32 WCF and says, "CCI primers". They ahd literally bent the firing pin by 1/32" or so. I immediately set aside my CCI primers for modern guns and switched to Winchester primers. No more bent pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 Tom, you may be interested in this chart. Also, metallurgy in 1902 was much different then firearms metal of today. For clarification, the firing pin itself was not bent and I use CCI 300's exclusively. The area that was bent was where the ejector cut is for the spring and slip collar. There is no way that any primer hit could have bent the metal there 22 Oct 2010 Test Procedure: Using a Lee Hardness Tester that measures Brinell hardness, placed a new primer on a piece of steel. Held the indent ball on the primer for 30 seconds. Measurement is the diameter of the indent, smaller numbers indication harder brass Pistol Primers 0.32 – CCI 300 LP 0.38 – Federal GM150 Match LP 0.40 – Federal 155 LP Magnum 0.40 – Winchester WLP 0.42 – Federal 150 LP 0.42 - Federal 100 SP 0.44 – CCI 400 SP 0.48 – Remington 2 ½ LP Rifle Primers 0.26 – CCI BR-2 LR 0.28 – CCI 200 LR 0.32 – Federal 215 LR Magnum 0.34 – Remington 9 ½ LR Note: Rifle primers are harder than handgun primers! Lot Numbers were not recorded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 I've been having light firing pin hits lately on one of my 45 Colt LSI Rossi M92. So decide to find out why ... * Pushed on the firing pin at the back of the bolt where the hammer strikes the pin * It was binding in the bolt. Disassembled the rifle to remove the bolt * Pushed the pin fully into the firing pin hole. The tip of the pin was jamming at the bottom of the firing pin hole * Removed the pin from the bolt, saw that the top of the complete pin was not straight * Got out the magnifying glass and proceeded to whack the pin about an inch in back of the pin * Routine was whack - insert - look at the position of the pin in the firing pin hole on the bolt under magnification * Whack - Look - Whack - Look - put the pin in the bolt to see if it 'floated' easily in the bolt * Got it centered in the firing pin hole and the pin floated easily in the bolt. * Polished the complete firing pin * Assembled and fired 3 empty primed cases: Bang - Bang -Bang That was the LSI Rossi, no safety Pulled the Puma Rossi,45 Colt, out of the safe and pushed on the back of the pin where the hammer strikes it. It too was binding. So, disassembled the rifle and did the same procedure I do believe that Rossi firing pins are made bent at the factory based on having 2 that were. To determine if yours are: look to see if the pin is hitting in the center of the primer - push on the pin at the back of the bolt to determine if it is floating in the bolt. If it binds, IMO, it's not if - it's when - you too will be having light primer hits and the rounds won't be going off LSI Rossi 24",no safety, Age - 2002 with thousands of rounds down the bore Puma Rossi 20",safety, Age - 2008 or 2009 with less than 500 rounds down the bore Might add, they are both brass frames! And you would be wrong. But I do see this about 1 in 10. Those FP's are tuned then heat treated. The problem is some warp. When doing the action work on these guns and when I find one that is warped I turn the high spot off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curly Red Ryder Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Howdy Nat, Have seen another problem on recent production of Rossi92. The hooked piece riveted under the action block and retaining the ejector spring and ring is often bent out or the "hook" too much ground off and it's very difficult to reassemble the ejector after putting the gun in parts. I've even seen a friend's ejector "ejected" from the gun on the range (luckily it was found back and the spring too). On my action, when Shotgun Boogie tried to fix the problem the part broke and it was necessary to weld it in good position. Had you this problem with the Rossi sold in the States and how do you fix it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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