S&W break front revolver, 1880 patent

[Sierra Steve]

I have a very good condition S&W breakfront in 38 S&W which I use in pocket pistol events at local SASS club competition. I can manage to back out the extractor and do a so so job of cleaning, but it would be much better if I could figure out how to remove the cylinder. My particular gun is a 3 inch barrel, double action five shot. It indicates on the frame that it is per an 1880 Patent and per two later patents both issued in 1880's. The mid-six figure serial number is on the butt and the whole thing is nickel plated. I hope these details will help someone give me correct take-down and cleaning advice. Smith & Wesson has nothing on its web site about these older model pistols and I've found nothing via a general internet search. Anybody?

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Howdy

 

Most of these guns had an interrupted thread holding the cylinder onto the cylinder pin. Rotating the cylinder counterclockwise while pulling up slightly on the cylinder will engage the thread and allow the cylinder to be removed.

 

However, they were all retained by a nub on the bottom of the barrel latch.

 

There were basically three types of latches. Does it have a spring loaded barrel catch that you raise in order to break the gun open?

 

If so, with the gun already open, raise the latch, holding it open with your thumb. If you look at the underside of the latch, you will see the small nub of metal has rotated out of the way. Rotate the cylinder counterclockwise as seen from the rear, and exert slight pressure upwards. The thread will engage and the cylinder will climb up. Once the cylinder spins freely it can be lifted straight off the pin. To replace the cylinder, hold the latch open while screwing the cylinder down clockwise.

 

There were a couple of different latch designs. With one you pushed the latch in from the side. With this type, push the latch in all the way to clear the nub, and remove the cylinder the same way, rotating counterclockwise and pulling up slightly.

 

The third type of latch was pushed down behind the hammer. Push the latch down all the way while again rotating the cylinder counter clockwise, and pulling up slightly until the thread engages.

 

P.S. The proper name for this type of revolver is Top Break, because it broke at the top when you pivoted the barrel down to load or unload.

 

You are correct there is no information about these guns on the S&W website.

 

However there is tons of information about them on the S&W Forum.

 

S&W Forum

 

You will find many very knowledgeable people there. Go to the Antiques section of the forum for information about Top Break S&W revolvers.

[Sierra Steve]

Wow, thanks very much for the guidance. I not only managed to remove the cylinder per your very clear suggestion, but also the two parts resident in the center pin on which the cylinder revolves. Mine has the spring loaded barrel catch that must be raised to break the gun. AND, I was able to put it all back together again! Pretty remarkable given that I am ambi-bumble handed. And thanks for fixing my nomenclature, I'll try to remember that its a top break type. I think this will be an excellent pocket pistol for our SASS events, though I'm not too sure where to go to get appropriate ammo when my initial stash runs out. I haven't seen 38 S&W reloading dies listed in RCBS or other major supplier ads (all my reloading stuff is RCBS). Thanks again for your terrific help and willingness to share your expertise. I really appreciate it. As far as this topic is concerned, I think we're done!

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

You're welcome.

 

Lee makes dies for 38 S&W, but I am going to suggest you only use Black Powder in your S&W top break and not subject it to the concussion of Smokeless Powder recoil. Too much Smokeless and the frame may stretch.