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shotshell oal gauge


Tomboy

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Howdy,

 

As the hulls get reloaded, they seem to shorten resulting in crimps that don't close completely. Does anybody make an oal gauge which would quickly show me which ones to toss?

 

Any help appreciated here.

 

Thanks,

 

Tom

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I don't know of any OAL guage for hulls, but it wouldn't be hard to make one. Take a wooden dowel and place it in a once fired or unfired hull and mark the dowel where it reaches the top of the hull. Now you have a guage.

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You might want to check the adjustment for crimping on your press. Don't know if the plastic is stiffer or thicker or what on the newer AAs, but a small adjustment took care of it.

 

In any event, unless you're spilling shot from the crimped shell, it's nothing to be concerned about for our game.

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As the hulls get reloaded, they seem to shorten resulting in crimps that don't close completely. Does anybody make an oal gauge?

No, I doubt you have a problem with the hulls getting shorter. You most likely have a problem with crimp or crimp starter adjustment. Leaving a hole in the crimp is one of the classic problems when adjusting a shotgun press. Your loading instructions for the press, or a good shotshell loading manual, will suggest how you adjust the press to overcome the problem. Also use a consistent amount of wad pressure.

 

No gauge is made, because it is almost never needed. If you were trimming back hulls to make 2 1/2 " shells, then you might want a ruler with a mark on it, to set the cutting location.

 

Good luck, GJ

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As Garrison Joe has suggested, shotshells do not shorten with use. Fact is the opposite is true. They tend to stretch.

 

The problem is that todays AA cases are of their newer "High Strength" construction, which is really a two piece hull, having a separate base wad.

 

These hulls have LESS capacity than do the older compression formed cases, which were one piece hulls.

 

Having loaded tens of thousands of these hulls for Skeet, it has been determined that the solution is thus.

 

These hulls REQUIRE a much heavier pre-crimp. The pre-crimp should close the case mouth to the point that the hole on the middle is about the size of a primer. This adds more material into the crimp, and allows the final crimp to close the little hole that is giving you that problem. So, lower your pre-crimp/crimp starter to where that amount of pre-crimp is obtained. An adjustment of the final crimp will probably be needed also.

 

Depending on the shot load you are using, there are also PREFERRED wads to use, that compensate for that smaller capacity, and simply fit the HS cases better. If you want more information concerning this, you are welcome to PM me and I'll give you any information that you need.

 

RBK

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As the hulls get reloaded, they seem to shorten resulting in crimps that don't close completely.
Tomboy, I have ACTIV hulls that are vintage 1987 or earlier that have been reloaded 'multiple' times. Why keep reloading them? Because ACTIV was bought out by Fiochi and they discontinued making ACTIV's, that are IMO, the best hulls ever make. The hulls load perfectly every time.

OK, why your crimp doesn't close:

* You are not compressing the wad to the proper depth? Is a primary reason why crimps don't stay closed

* Are you sure that your shot charge is exactly what it shout be?

* Plastics used for shot shells have a 'memory'. If a 3 - 5 second press on the shell is not done, 'the memory' of the plastic will not hold the crimp closed properly. Another reason why crimps don't stay closed

 

I have not read or experienced that hulls shorten from factory original length with subsequent reloading. You might want to verify they don't by measuring one or more hulls yourself

 

PS, in addition to shot shells fired for CAS, so far this year I believe I've gone through over 1000 reloaded hulls shooting trap and skeet. Noticed only one shell last week with an open mouth and would think that is because of me - not the hull

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