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How do you clean under the Ejector Spring?


Rance - SASS # 54090

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I've been having a little problem ejecting rounds.. not many maybe 2 in 1000.. but thinking it's just gonna get worse..I started a thread here and got replies on how to check the extractor spring and fit a new one.. it was definitely weak.. ordered new one.. waiting for it to come in..

 

Sat. nite took the yellowboy apart for intense cleaning and polishing..

Took the bolt out and the extractor spring was weak.. very weak.. OK... I knocked out the pin and there was (I guess) 7 years of crud underneath the spring in the channel.. I clean this gun thouroughly about every 3-4 months.. minor cleaning in between.. but...

I didn't know that there was a channel underneath the extractor to clean.. dumb on my part I know but I'm still learning..

 

Question: under normal cleaning.. should I gently pry up on the ejector (maybe with a small screw driver) and spray brake cleaner in there to blast out the crud?? Doesn't seem like I should have to pull the bolt and take it apart at every cleaning.. but this needs attention...

 

BTW.. after cleaning out the crud in the channel, I put it back together... The ejector seems as tight as brand new again.. I'm tempted to put it back together and try it but I think I'll just wait for the new ejector..

 

Rance <_<

thinkin' I'm still learnin'

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Might not be a thing wrong with the extractor. Might well be a little operator error involved. IF yer cycling the gun fast, and ya inadvertantly begin opening the lever as the hammer falls, the round can fire with the bolt slightly open. What that means is the rim of the case is hooked under the extractor and is not fully against the back edge of the chamber, allowing the forces of firing to pop the rim of the case out from under the extractor hook. Of course if the bolt was open too much, ya get the classic distorted or blown case of an out of battery discharge, but if the bolt is just slightly open none of that happens, the case just pops off the extractor hook. Now you try to open the lever with the errant case still in the chamber and yer rifle is jammed up.......

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Rance,

 

Doesn't come up too often. Unless your shooting .45 with a lot of blow-by, cleaning under the extractor isn't an issue. Prying up the extractor is NOT a good idea. REAL easy to bend the extractor and turn it into junk. If you want to clean under it, you can slip a very fine jewelers screw driver under it (very carefully) and hose it out with automotive break cleaner. Unless you ordered a new pin with the extractor, now that you have it back together, I'd suggest leaving it alone unless you have further problems. That little pin is quite soft and will not take well to several removals and instillation.

 

Coffinmaker

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Rance,

One of the best investments you can make for a couple of dollars is a stainless steel dental pic. You can usually find them at a gun show. Don't settle for a plastic pic as offered by some gun supply houses as they are worthless. Have used mine to clean around the extractor on my Marlin and was amazed at how much crud I dug out. Beside cleaning extractor holes they are great to get into any tight spot that needs cleaning. Hope to see ya at a shoot soon.

 

DMJ

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For those times you absolutely must strip her down, get a good book (or video/or both) that gives the blow by blow instructions for disassembly/back again. Even the stainless picks can break a tiny tip off in the worst possible places and you will have to go after them.

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From an ammunition point of view.

Sort your brass.

Look for the widest and deepest rim groove.

Starline seems to have to have one of the widest and deepest.

Gives more for the extractor to hang on to.

 

Use these in your rifle and the others in your pistols.

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We had a shooter on Sunday who is running a nice '73 done up with all the goodies. He had it fail to extract. When I picked up the two cases that it did extract before it jammed up, I noticed one had a "funny" looking primer. The usual divot was there, but the center of the primer had raised up, with a small depression where the firing pin was, so ya had a big dimple with a "donut" of material in the middle with a small dimple in the middle. I opined that the round had fired when slightly out of battery, likely on the way IN, and as the primer popped, the round slipped the hook and it was only lightly dented by the protruded firing pin when the pressures of firing pushed the metal cup back into the pin, leaving the odd primer sign. I say it fired on the way into the chamber because it did extract, so the bolt caught up to it after firing, putting the case back on the hook....

 

if a round fires slightly out of battery when the bolt is on the way back, the case can jump the hook and stay in the chamber, which IMHO is what locked this fellow's rifle up. The gun was spotlessly clean, and he said it's only happened twice in a lotta use, which to me indicates a "user" bobble and not a rifle issue....

 

Folks will discount it as an out of battery event when they don't see a blown or distorted case. Well, if ya ever sectioned a case, ya know the case head is solid up to a point ahead of the extractor groove, so it won't distort or blow using light loads unless it's a good bit out of battery. The case can still jump the extractor or beat up the extractor when only slightly out of battery. TIMING of the cycling of a toggle link gun is important. Ya wanna trip the trigger and have the gun go off wiuth the bolt FULLY forward. Push the program and bobble, it may not be fully in battery as it fires.

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