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Need help with my Extractor..


Rance - SASS # 54090

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On another thread I had a problem of a shell not being ejected..

Responses said to check my extractor.... (I ain't no gunsmith) handy?? Maybe... :blush:

What should I look for :wacko:

 

Rance <_<

thinkin' a thank you is in order... :)

 

Oh yeah... '66 yellowboy shooting 38 specials..1st. generation short stroke..

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Cycle the action to where you can put the tip of your finger on the face of the bolt. Pull your finger up to where it engages the extractor at the lip wich engages the cartridge and extracts it. If the extractor moves upward with light to medium pressure, time to replace. If it doesn't move with moderate pressure it's good to go.

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Cycle the action to where you can put the tip of your finger on the face of the bolt. Pull your finger up to where it engages the extractor at the lip wich engages the cartridge and extracts it. If the extractor moves upward with light to medium pressure, time to replace. If it doesn't move with moderate pressure it's good to go.

Tuco Forsyth.. thanks for your reply..

I checked it against my other yellowboy.. it's my backup and doesn't get shot as much.

The extractor does seem weaker on my main match rifle..

 

Next question... Does the spring (extractor) only get replaced or does the whole pin come with the extractor built in to it?

Does Brownells carry parts that will work?

Think I can put it in? Dumb question.. you don't know my talent :blush:

I've taken it all the way down for cleaning.. toggles and all.. like I said ain't a gunsmith but handy..

Does it require any special fitting? I guess is a more appropriate question..

 

 

 

Thanks

Rance <_<

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CR -

 

Extractor is a springy hook. There is a small, 1/16 inch cross pin that holds the extractor in the bolt.

 

Fitting usually requires you to bevel the nose of the extractor hook so that no sharp edges can catch as it slides into the back of the barrel notch, and if the extractor feels too tight or "forceful", you can LIGHTLY remove a little metal in the thin part behind the hook. Thinning too much means the extractor will get weak again very quickly.

 

The inside right angle of the hook may have to be adjusted so that it grabs the rim well - keep the angle there square if you file it. And the hook may be too "thick", meaning it flexes a LOT while snapping over the rim - this can sometimes need to be thinned down. Compare to your old extractor.

 

Then, at the rear of the extractor, there's a bulge through which the cross pin fits. Hand-press the extractor into the slot in the bolt, and see if the cross pin holes align. They usually will be too high on the extractor. Adjust the thickness of the extractor bulge until the pin hole aligns with the holes in the bolt.

 

The cross pin has to be driven out with a good 1/16 inch punch, with a tip that is in good shape. Cross pin usually is destroyed by this. When reassembling, use a piece of 1/16 drill rod, or the shank of a 1/16 drill bit (not the fluted part), or even some "soft" hardware wire that is 0.069 inch diameter (my favorite). The extractor is not under a lot of load. Carefully file the ends of the cross pin to match the bolt profile (just slightly above the bolt surface is ok, but the bolt has to retract back into the frame, so watch for the pin or extractor hitting the frame when you cycle it).

 

Good luck, GJ

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Garrison Joe..

excellent information... sounds like when I order the extractor spring that I might as well order a cross pin with it...

 

Thanks much for the information..

Rance <_<

thinkin' that's the help I needed

 

Marlin. :rolleyes: . with info like this I won't be needin' yer range rod :lol::lol:

but thanks anyhow..

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Now, lets back the train up a bit. Are we sure the extractor is at fault? SOMETIMES there ain't a thing wrong with the extractor, or the extractor has been prematurely ruined. In either instance, this can happen if ya got a headspace issue. With an empty case placed by hand directly into the chamber, and the bolt closed, there ought be no more than .005-.008 or so clearance behind the case head at most. (common printer paper is .003. If two or three strips of paper slipped between the bolt and the case, slid in next to the extractor get tight when ya close the bolt, yer good. if three strips is not tight, yer getting wide on headspace) If ya got too much clearance (aka "Headspace") yer beating the extractor up and the case may jump off the extractor hook upon firing......

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I didn't read the other thread and I don't see it mentioned here. But, if the little rim shelf is missing off the bottom front of the bolt the extractor won't hold the rim. That's because there is nothing supporting the rim on the bottom.

If the rim shelf is still there then headspace or weak extractor is probably the problem. Has the gun been short stroked? The problem may be the extractor is bent/weak because the carrier is coming up too soon pushing the cart. hard into the extractor before the front of the cart. is standing up enough to be kicked out.

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Howdy,

I have to ask was the peice of brass that was left in it cracked or split in anyway? if so that could have caused you problem also.

 

KK

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I didn't read the other thread and I don't see it mentioned here. But, if the little rim shelf is missing off the bottom front of the bolt the extractor won't hold the rim. That's because there is nothing supporting the rim on the bottom.

If the rim shelf is still there then headspace or weak extractor is probably the problem. Has the gun been short stroked? The problem may be the extractor is bent/weak because the carrier is coming up too soon pushing the cart. hard into the extractor before the front of the cart. is standing up enough to be kicked out.

 

Nate thanks for your reply...

the yellowboy has 1st generation short stroke..

This season out of maybe 1000 rounds it has only failed to extract 2 fired cartridges.. it has happened (I guess luckily for me) to be the last round fired.. so then I get to the unloading table and bingo.. it extracts it there when I show empty and safe.. and I can get a MSV.. It has never done it while going through the 10 rounds normally shot on a stage..

 

An earlier reply said to just lift up on the extractor spring and see how hard it is to lift...

Ya know.. how much spring stiffness is still there...

I have another yellowboy as backup that gets shot very little... I tested both of them...

My match rifle that is showing the extractor problem has a much weaker extractor spring..

So I feel that's the culprit..

Again thanks

Rance <_<

 

Sorry KK... :wacko: I didn't check the brass to see if cracked or split.. shoulda Huh? :blush:

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I didn't check the brass to see if cracked or split.. shoulda Huh? :blush:

 

And should check that the extractor is clean. Both around the hook area, and also for crud that gets UNDER the extractor body, and makes the extractor stick up too far to grab the rim.

 

But, if the extractor is moving, and it moves easily with the tip of your finger, it's time for a new one. Clean the bolt well while you have it out of the rifle, including the firing pin channel.

 

Good luck, GJ

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And should check that the extractor is clean. Both around the hook area, and also for crud that gets UNDER the extractor body, and makes the extractor stick up too far to grab the rim.

 

But, if the extractor is moving, and it moves easily with the tip of your finger, it's time for a new one. Clean the bolt well while you have it out of the rifle, including the firing pin channel.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

 

Thanks for all the information... except for Marlin Buckhorn :D:D I can use your range rod.. Geez.. thanks... :angry:

Rance <_<

this is a good ol' SASS wire

all sort of info and help :)

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Nate- is the test of pushing up on the extractor to judge the tension valid for a 92 as well? I am having a similar issue with my Rossi. Not all the time- just now and then. I have had a MSV the 1st time, and then when watching for it, it took 2-3 more lever cycles to grab the cartridge well enough to pull it out of the chamber. I do shoot Triple SE7EN. I have cleaned under the extractor as best I could after my last match and have not had a chance to test it out yet.

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Nate- is the test of pushing up on the extractor to judge the tension valid for a 92 as well? I am having a similar issue with my Rossi. Not all the time- just now and then. I have had a MSV the 1st time, and then when watching for it, it took 2-3 more lever cycles to grab the cartridge well enough to pull it out of the chamber. I do shoot Triple SE7EN. I have cleaned under the extractor as best I could after my last match and have not had a chance to test it out yet.

 

The 92 extractor is much longer so it doesn't get sprung as easy as the out of time short stroke 73. The two most common problems with the 92 extractor are 1, mostly 45lc and you are getting some blowback the crud builds up under the extractor holding it off the rim. If you take it off and clean under it the problem goes away for awhile. The best fix is to use ammo that doesn't blow crud back under it.

Next is some of the 92's have poorly fitted extractors right out of the box. If you have MY DVD go to part where it show you how to reduce the extractor tension. Notice the little pad left there just behind the hook. If you remove some metal from that pad it will lower the hook enough to get a better grip on the rim.

Hope this helps

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  • 3 weeks later...

I didn't read the other thread and I don't see it mentioned here. But, if the little rim shelf is missing off the bottom front of the bolt the extractor won't hold the rim. That's because there is nothing supporting the rim on the bottom.

If the rim shelf is still there then headspace or weak extractor is probably the problem. Has the gun been short stroked? The problem may be the extractor is bent/weak because the carrier is coming up too soon pushing the cart. hard into the extractor before the front of the cart. is standing up enough to be kicked out.

 

Nate.. should have listened to ya in the first place.. :wacko: that little rim on the bottom is gone..I put in a new extractor spring... it puts enough tension on it to alleviate the problem for the time being.. but gonna order a new breech block today.. seems the only place I can find one is Taylors Arms Co.

 

Thanks Nate..

Rance <_<

Thinkin' should always listen to a gunsmith :blush:

 

OK.. Taylors Arms.. doesn't have them and they refered me to VTI Gun Parts.. they have a new model that is recommended by Uberti.. they said Uberti does not support the old style because of safety issues..

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